This will cover DT360, DT408, DT466, DT530, as well as many other engines, but timing marks and access may be different.
The 93-97's with the Bosch P-pump: On the front of the pump (timing case)is a 3 bolt cover (8mm heads)that you remove. This is the picture below looking down on the engine & the alt belt looks red(funky camera). This cover has an o-ring and is usually good for reassembly without replacing.
P-pump equipped:
Inside is the 13mm headed bolts that set the timing, & there's 4 of those bolts. Before you loosen the bolts, mark the original timing setting for reference with a sharpie or such. Crank the engine over at the alternator(you may need to hold the belts tighter, plus it turns better one way than the other) until you can insert a 1/4" bolt or equal size phillips screwdriver to stop the engine from turning(by hand, not with starter!). The pilot hole is in the slots of the gear at 3 o' clock as you look at it from the front. The bolt will slip in as the timing comes into its spot. Now, break the gear bolts loose, but keep 1 of them tight. Slowly crank the engine over until it snugs up on the bolt. Loosen the last bolt, they dont need to come out, just backed off a few turns. Mark your starting timing on the balancer now before you move the engine. Then if you can read the balancer, go the desired number of degrees in the same direction the alt will let it turn(which will advance the timing). Tighten the gear bolts up, remove the bolt that was pinned in, and put the cover back on.
The older ones have about 8 or 10 bolts to remove the cover from the timing case. I think there's 2 sets of bolts that have nuts on the back side. You may need to re-gasket the cover before re-installation. Remove the plug on the side of the timing gear case, it has a 3/8" square drive. In there you will be lining up the timing marks. Very helpful to have a second person here. Bar the engine over from the alternator until the timing marks are lined up on the pointers, the will look like this: >< when it's lined up. When you have that, mark on the balancer or make note of your original setting. Now loosen up the bolts(don't remove) on the gear, after you pull off the front cover, but leave 1 tight. Bar the engine over from the alt. to advance slowly until desired amount of degrees. If no timing marks to go by, measure 1/8" per degree. Loosen the last bolt on the gear, and line the marks back up using the big nut on the front of the pump. Then, tighten the gear bolts back up, put on the front cover, and timing plug. I made a video if this down in post #14 below.
The 4 bolts on the timing adjustment need to be pretty tight, but be careful not to go too tight & break one off(specs say 38 ft lbs). If yours is set at 17* timing from the factory, you may not even notice any benefit, this is more for the 10-15* timed engines. The goal is to be around 17-19* advanced timing and after you've upped the fuel rate some.
The 93-97's with the Bosch P-pump: On the front of the pump (timing case)is a 3 bolt cover (8mm heads)that you remove. This is the picture below looking down on the engine & the alt belt looks red(funky camera). This cover has an o-ring and is usually good for reassembly without replacing.
P-pump equipped:
Inside is the 13mm headed bolts that set the timing, & there's 4 of those bolts. Before you loosen the bolts, mark the original timing setting for reference with a sharpie or such. Crank the engine over at the alternator(you may need to hold the belts tighter, plus it turns better one way than the other) until you can insert a 1/4" bolt or equal size phillips screwdriver to stop the engine from turning(by hand, not with starter!). The pilot hole is in the slots of the gear at 3 o' clock as you look at it from the front. The bolt will slip in as the timing comes into its spot. Now, break the gear bolts loose, but keep 1 of them tight. Slowly crank the engine over until it snugs up on the bolt. Loosen the last bolt, they dont need to come out, just backed off a few turns. Mark your starting timing on the balancer now before you move the engine. Then if you can read the balancer, go the desired number of degrees in the same direction the alt will let it turn(which will advance the timing). Tighten the gear bolts up, remove the bolt that was pinned in, and put the cover back on.
The older ones have about 8 or 10 bolts to remove the cover from the timing case. I think there's 2 sets of bolts that have nuts on the back side. You may need to re-gasket the cover before re-installation. Remove the plug on the side of the timing gear case, it has a 3/8" square drive. In there you will be lining up the timing marks. Very helpful to have a second person here. Bar the engine over from the alternator until the timing marks are lined up on the pointers, the will look like this: >< when it's lined up. When you have that, mark on the balancer or make note of your original setting. Now loosen up the bolts(don't remove) on the gear, after you pull off the front cover, but leave 1 tight. Bar the engine over from the alt. to advance slowly until desired amount of degrees. If no timing marks to go by, measure 1/8" per degree. Loosen the last bolt on the gear, and line the marks back up using the big nut on the front of the pump. Then, tighten the gear bolts back up, put on the front cover, and timing plug. I made a video if this down in post #14 below.
The 4 bolts on the timing adjustment need to be pretty tight, but be careful not to go too tight & break one off(specs say 38 ft lbs). If yours is set at 17* timing from the factory, you may not even notice any benefit, this is more for the 10-15* timed engines. The goal is to be around 17-19* advanced timing and after you've upped the fuel rate some.