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You don't need to remove turbo to change the EGR cooler hose.
Drain engine coolant (2 gallons). - DO THIS FIRST - IMPORTANT
Loosen the clamps and remove the charge air cooler (CAC) intake pipe (HotSide pipe) - DO THIS SECOND - IMPORTANT
Remove the 2 T30 bolts and the EGR cooler supply port housing cover.
Remove the EGR cooler supply port housing cover
Twist and pull the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose to remove it from the EGR cooler tube (you can do this with it attached to the EGR cooler housing cover or you can stab a screwdriver through the old hose to help you twist it).
Rotate the oil-cooler-to-EGR-cooler hose 90 degrees (1/4-turn) and remove it from the EGR cooler supply port housing.
Clean and inspect the EGR cooler supply port housing O-ring seals. Install new O-ring seals if necessary.
Lubricate the inside of the new oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose with clean engine coolant and slide it onto the EGR cooler tube far enough so it will not interfere with the installation of the EGR cooler supply port.
Make sure the dual index marks (flat edge) on the hose are facing up.
Lubricate the EGR cooler housing cover supply port O-ring seals with clean engine coolant and position the EGR cooler supply port housing cover on the engine. After positioning the EGR cooler supply port housing cover, install the 2 bolts.
NOTE: Use a commercially available Torx bit, such as Matco® BTX30B, or equivalent, and a torque adapter to tighten the EGR cooler supply port housing cover bolts. Calculate the correct torque wrench setting for the following torque. Refer to the Torque Wrench Adapter Formulas in the Appendix. Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).
Slide the oil cooler-to-EGR cooler hose onto the EGR cooler housing cover (supply port) and rotate it 90 degrees (1/4-turn) until it locks in place.
Install the CAC intake pipe and tighten the clamps. Tighten to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft).
Fill and bleed the engine cooling system.
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Last edited by bismic; 01-23-2012 at 04:01 AM.