1996 6.5 injector pump - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-27-2010, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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1996 6.5 injector pump

Hello, I just bought a 96 K3500. The truck has had many problems from the day after I bought it so I think I just inherited someone elses problems. Unfortunately this is my only dump truck and I need to get it going asap. I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and all three tell me I need a new injector pump.

Does anyone know where to get a used one or one at a good price? One mechanic told me $2000 to replace it, I simply don't have the money for that and hell I only paid $8500 for the truck.

Please advise!
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 05:07 AM
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First off, is the check engine light on at all? If so, gain access to a code reader and obtain the codes, and post them back up here. If your truck truly is a 96, then it is the first year of OBD II, so of course you will be looking to borrow a OBDII code reader. IIRC, autozone, or many of the chain auto parts store will read codes for free, if the truck can make it there.

The most common issue on the electronic pumped 6.5Ls (94-2000) is the PMD (Pump Mounted Driver) it is the little black box on the drivers side of the injection pump with one wiring harness hooked to it. The previous owner may have relocated it to the bumper or the intake.

When it is going bad, it will do all sorts of crazy things. Post up a description of any stalling, rough idle, etc, basically anything that differs from a normal idle and acceleration. Any details are usually important, so feel free to describe anything that is unusual, or seems unusual to you.

Do you plan on keeping the truck for a while? What is its primary uses? knowing this will affect advice given on parts purchases, etc.

also, can you fill out your signature with the specs of the truck, like 2wd/4wd 3500 SRW or DRW, RC, EC, CC, 5spd or auto, and if DRW 3500, did it start life as a pickup (v shaped frame, as viewed from rear) or as a chassis cab (straight, parallel 34 inch spaced frame rails, commonly with dual tanks) etc. it does make a difference!

99 Chev C3500 6.5L NV4500 14 bolt 2wd 4.10 130K White Ext, Gray Int. RC159.5" WB DRW Chassis Cab with utility box Runs Great, building up
96 GMC C2500HD 6.5L NV4500 14 bolt 2wd 3.73 240K White Ext, Blue Int. ECLB 155.5"WB SRW Pickup runs bad, getting motor right now
95 GMC C2500HD 6.5L NV4500 14 bolt 2wd 4.10 135K White Ext, Grey Int. RC 131.5"WB SRW Pickup with utility box runs strong, yet huffs on 1 hole
95 Chev C3500HD 6.5L NV4500 D80 2wd 5.13 132K White Ext, Grey Int. RC 159.5"WB DRW Chassis Cab with flatbed bad heads, needs motor re-do
94 GMC C2500HD 6.5L 4L80E 14 bolt 2wd 3.73 300K White Ext, Blue Int. Suburban needs engine
91 GMC C1500, 6.2L SM465 10 bolt 2wd 3.42 59K Red Ext, Red Int. RCLB 131.5"WB SRW Pickup needs injectors, oil cooler lines
91 Chev C1500 4.3L 5LM60 10 bolt 2wd 3.42 ??K White Ext, Red Int. RCLB 131.5"WB SRW Pickup needs...alot

98 GMC C3500 5.7L Vortec NV4500 208K down right now, needs head gaskets (dex cool claims another set! )
92 GMC C3500HD 6.5L Turbo NV4500 160K needs exhaust system and oil cooler lines
93 GMC C3500HD 6.5L Turbo 4L80E 260K had a crate 6.5L sometime
All above are 159.5" C&C, 10'-12' flatbed, Summit white, RC, SL trim, 2wd
96 GMC C2500HD SL ECLB 6.5L 5spd 2wd. 215K (sold to dad, ran good for a bit, started missing at idle, had blowby since purchase

84 Pete 362 COE, 300 BCIII RTOO 13 spd Fuller (3 OD ratios, hard to find) Single axle tractor, air seats, cab, suspension, OEM twin 200 gallon tanks.
74 Pete 352 COE, cat, 13spd TS, B&H grain truck
90 Marmon 57P long hood conventional, 60"flattop, 12.7L60 Series, 13 spd fuller, TS tractor
76 Marmon COE 8V92T 13spd fuller, TS B&H grain truck
95 IHC 9600 COE M11, 10 spd, SA tractor.

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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-28-2010, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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It began as a dump truck I guess, it has a steel contractor bed. It has central hydraulics. I use it for landscaping truck and I will plow with it too.

So this is whats going on:
When I bought the truck the last owner told me that the rear tank has a pin hole in it and that the tank is missing some kind of plug or sensor or something that reads the fuel level in that tank, said its like a $10 part he just never replaced cause he didn't use the truck much. So since it can't read the rear tank it doesn't draw fuel from it, so basically I have only the front tank. The fuel gauge is broken because of this, it always reads E, accept for when I just filled it up then it reads 1/2 tank for a few minutes. Anyway, he told me that till I get it fixed I should fill up frequently and that if it starts to buck and run rough that means I'm getting low on fuel. So day two after the purchase rolls around and I'd driven it home from quite a distance so my tank must have been getting low cause it started bucking and cutting out so I got to the station and filled up and all was fine after that. So this was during my busy season and I didn't want to take time to get her fixed till THIS time of year, so I would just wait till she started bucking and kicking and get to the station. Eventually I just started going every morning to avoid problems and because I was sure that type of treatment wasn't good for her. Well then not long into that she becomes a rough start, and then she started acting like she was out of fuel when I'd just filled up. And she also started doing this thing where she just lost power, I'd be going along at a good clip and she'd start to seriously lose power. Even with the pedal floored all the way eventually she wouldn't even go over 20 mph and as soon as I'd pull over she'd die and it would take me forever to get her started again. So I thought maybe there was air in the lines and I bled the air out from that valve on the front of the motor, little air bubbles came out and she'd die, so I just kept repeating the process of cranking it and trying to bleed air out till eventually she would start. I kept up this "bleeding the lines" thing for several weeks, it became worse and worse till I was doing it several times a day.
Now she just won't start. I've drained the batteries completely and had no luck. Just got them recharged but I haven't messed with the truck anymore as I'm sure my old jerry rigged methods of starting her up will do no good.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 11-30-2010, 02:28 PM Thread Starter
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