Do many kenworth W9's crack the frame by the front spring hanger? - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 03:14 PM Thread Starter
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Do many kenworth W9's crack the frame by the front spring hanger?

Was told by some co-workers that they are prone to cracking the frame behind the front spring hanger, near where the hood meets the cab. How long would a weld job last if this happens?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-25-2012, 03:53 PM
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I have fixed four of them. Crack starts where shackle hanger is riveted through bottom flange of the frame. I weld the crack up then put a liner inside from front of frame to one foot behind the break. I also change out the shacle hanger for one from a K100 cabover. It doesnt use the bottom bolt through the frame flange.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 12:02 AM
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I have fixed two,both started where the bottom bolt for the hanger goes through the flange.
Funny how they put a sticker on the frame telling you not to drill the frame flange but they do it at the factory.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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i never looked close up at a kw frame. how is the spring hanger fastened to the frame? is the cracking a frame issue or the spring hanger torkin' things up and eventually causing cracks?
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 02:40 AM Thread Starter
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I might as well disclose that i''m thinkin of lookin at one with a vertical weld that runs the up and down length of frame right behind the passenger spring hanger..
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 06:26 PM
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I do not know about KW but frames have a very long warranty, it costs nothing to ask.
I have replaced frames with cracks also welded up a lot more.

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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 07:20 PM
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Swapping Frame Rails

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Originally Posted by Johnp3 View Post
I have replaced frames with cracks also welded up a lot more.
No cracks that I am aware of in my 235 inch 1971 aluminum frame. But I would like a little longer and a steel rail to avoid electrolysis. Unbolting the entire aluminum frame rail and pulling it out from one vehicle end or the other and using it as a pattern for hole drilling my second-hand 265 inch steel frame rail sounds pretty simple. But I'm wondering if it really is. In addition to some jacks and jack stands is a hoist or two necessary to support one entire side of the truck while the swap is made? Then switch over to the otherside of the vehicle and do the second one? Or am I kidding myself?

I saw a guy on the Beltway the other day with a sign deriving from the "Got Milk?" commercial. It read: "Got Frame Rail?" And he surely did ... about seven feet between the back of the sleeper to his fifth wheel.

choppingwoodchoppingwood:

Apologies to those who keep their sock drawers sorted. Hadn't meant to hi-jack the man's thread...just wasn't thinking

Last edited by Rogerstar1; 04-27-2012 at 07:26 PM.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 08:13 PM
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simple answer is its a known issue.. If I recall they drilled a hole in the flange for the rear spring hanger? Why I have no clue. drilling into the flange has always been considered a big no no?????

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 11:06 PM
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That's about it.
drive the truck in, unbolt everything piece by piece, jack the component up and put it on stands just enough to take the weight off, repeat. you need a lot of stands to do it
The one dealership I used to work for did quite a few. One rail at a time, lots and lots of stands.



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Unbolting the entire aluminum frame rail and pulling it out from one vehicle end or the other and using it as a pattern for hole drilling my second-hand 265 inch steel frame rail sounds pretty simple. But I'm wondering if it really is.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-27-2012, 11:08 PM
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Freightliner has two mounting bolts threw the lower flange to mount the front spring rear hanger.
Rodgerstar1 the frame rails are measure to the outside, all the cross-members used on an Aluminum frame are narrower, because the frame is thicker.
Drilling a blank rail is not difficult I did it on a couple of units on Freightliners, the nose to the back of the front mounts are standard.

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