Need help on Cat C15 - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-30-2016, 02:54 AM Thread Starter
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Need help on Cat C15

I have a 2008 Peterbilt with a Cat C-15 motor in it. Serial prefix SDP. Truck started smoking white smoke real bad. It quits as soon as I cut out #5 cylinder. There are no codes. Here's is what I've tried so far that hasn't worked: New injector in #5. Switched injectors 5 and 6. Switched Iva's 3/4 with 5/6. Compression tested 5 and 6, both tested about 250 psi before popping the seal on tester. I'm pretty sure it's fuel in the exhaust and not coolant. I'm leaning towards wiring/ecm problem now even though there is no codes. What do you guys think?
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 02:25 AM
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I have a 2008 Peterbilt with a Cat C-15 motor in it. Serial prefix SDP. Truck started smoking white smoke real bad. It quits as soon as I cut out #5 cylinder. There are no codes. Here's is what I've tried so far that hasn't worked: New injector in #5. Switched injectors 5 and 6. Switched Iva's 3/4 with 5/6. Compression tested 5 and 6, both tested about 250 psi before popping the seal on tester. I'm pretty sure it's fuel in the exhaust and not coolant. I'm leaning towards wiring/ecm problem now even though there is no codes. What do you guys think?
Head gasket. Liner dropped on #5. Does it stop smoking when it warms up?

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-31-2016, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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No it continues to smoke. I should also mention motor was overhauled with a new engine block about 80,000 miles ago. I had the head inspected and re-used at that time. Because it has good compression and I'm sure it's fuel and not coolant I don't believe it's a head/gasket problem. I'm stumped at this point.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 10:35 AM
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Just pressure test the cooling system and you will see. I'm willing to bet Sled is right. Just cause the block was new doesn't mean it was right. I bought a new head that had to be machined flat, had a friend buy a new crank that was bent.

Sorry hope it isn't a head gasket!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-01-2016, 09:54 PM Thread Starter
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Well I learned what a bottle test was today. Did that and it failed. No bubbles at all until the engine warmed up to about 170 deg then it started bubbling like crazy. However the coolant pressure doesn't go over 15 psi. Looks like you guys were right and it's the head gasket. Thanks for the help. Ill be taking the head off tomorrow. Btw if I pressurize the coolant system I should see coolant coming into hole 5 looking through injector cup or from underneath?

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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-02-2016, 02:15 AM
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Well I learned what a bottle test was today. Did that and it failed. No bubbles at all until the engine warmed up to about 170 deg then it started bubbling like crazy. However the coolant pressure doesn't go over 15 psi. Looks like you guys were right and it's the head gasket. Thanks for the help. Ill be taking the head off tomorrow. Btw if I pressurize the coolant system I should see coolant coming into hole 5 looking through injector cup or from underneath?
Yes, it's a good way to confirm your diagnosis before pulling the head.
However. ...... sometimes the engine needs to be hot for it to leak.
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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I finally had time to pull the head off and found exactly as you guys suspected. Fire ring on 5 was blown out by one of the bolt holes, closest to 6. I need some help figuring out what caused this. I plan on bolting down the spacer plate around 5 and checking the liner protrusion again. I don't suspect this will be the problem as the new block was disassembled from a new motor and sent to machine shop for machining before I got it. Could a warped head or spacer plate be the cause? What else should I look for?
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 10:08 PM
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I finally had time to pull the head off and found exactly as you guys suspected. Fire ring on 5 was blown out by one of the bolt holes, closest to 6. I need some help figuring out what caused this. I plan on bolting down the spacer plate around 5 and checking the liner protrusion again. I don't suspect this will be the problem as the new block was disassembled from a new motor and sent to machine shop for machining before I got it. Could a warped head or spacer plate be the cause? What else should I look for?
The block is eroded on top. Look around each hole, about 1/8" from the edge, you'll see a line in the block. The liner flange wears and drops in the block. Call Cat or a good reputable machine shop and have the counterbores cut. Don't let them cut just one or two, cut them all. They'll also want to set protrusion at .001-.004 but make them cut to result at .005-.006 protrusion. Argue with them and make them do it.

Have head surfaced, and new spacer plate.

While the pistons are out, have a good machine shop cut .080 off the tops. Trust me, you'll thank me later. That's drops the comp ratio from 18.1 to around 16.

2005 250 Super Duty Crew. White and Grey. ARP studs, EGR Delete, and SCT from Vivian. CCV re-route, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back.

Other trucks:1980 KW Ext hood, 1982 Kenworth Cabover Aerodyne (BJ and the Bear) 2000 and 2003 Kenworth W900's. 2003 Pete EXHD. All Caterpillar Power. My 2003 has an MBN I converted to 6NZ. Early 550 file, 211-3025 squirts. 800 cam. Acert twins via custom mount. ARP head bolts.


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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete379X View Post
I finally had time to pull the head off and found exactly as you guys suspected. Fire ring on 5 was blown out by one of the bolt holes, closest to 6. I need some help figuring out what caused this. I plan on bolting down the spacer plate around 5 and checking the liner protrusion again. I don't suspect this will be the problem as the new block was disassembled from a new motor and sent to machine shop for machining before I got it. Could a warped head or spacer plate be the cause? What else should I look for?
I just read your original post again. You're SDP, so your comp is 17.1 probably so you'll be ok. Or just cut .040 off to be safe. Get me the serial and I can tell you what the CR is

2005 250 Super Duty Crew. White and Grey. ARP studs, EGR Delete, and SCT from Vivian. CCV re-route, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back.

Other trucks:1980 KW Ext hood, 1982 Kenworth Cabover Aerodyne (BJ and the Bear) 2000 and 2003 Kenworth W900's. 2003 Pete EXHD. All Caterpillar Power. My 2003 has an MBN I converted to 6NZ. Early 550 file, 211-3025 squirts. 800 cam. Acert twins via custom mount. ARP head bolts.


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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 06-06-2016, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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I just read your original post again. You're SDP, so your comp is 17.1 probably so you'll be ok. Or just cut .040 off to be safe. Get me the serial and I can tell you what the CR is
SDP04546. Thanks Sled! This block better be under warranty if it is the deck that is fretting. It's been in the truck less than a year! I'm guessing this is a common problem that you have seen many times.
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