Yes, the pedal needs to be pressed down. Won't be able to turn the adjusting ring otherwise. If working alone, I use a few wood blocks to hold the pedal down.
Originally Posted by DSRTECH
See if i can explain this right, have to have pedal down, turn adjuster on ppa so you have 1/2-3/4 inch between bearing and clutch brake ,with pedal up then adj linkage if needed to get free pedal right alot of times you will not have to adj linkage. on clutch with lock held in with bolt and need adj. tool or pry bars on adj. seems like 2 tabs on adj. will be right or good start on a normal clutch adj-- hope this helps
2-3 tabs usually does it. With a clutch brake, you usually want ~9/16" gap between the brake and throwout bearing, or between the brake and the front cover that is around the input shaft of trans.
Also want ~1/8" of gap between the throwout bearing and clutch release forks.
Depending on the person who drives the truck, I tweak the 9/16" and 1/8" gaps. If the person has a bad tendency to push the pedal all of the way down when coasting to a stop, then I increase the gaps a bit, so the clutch brake squeeze starts later.
For the 9/16, I use a 3-4" long 3/8" bolt. If I'm driving the truck, I use the 9/16". If not, I set the gap such, that I can just
spin the bolt head between the brake and bearing. I also shoot for 2" free travel, since most of the time, the guys driving aren't paying any attention to it. I don't usually hear that it needs to be adjusted, til I hear them grinding gears to start out.
If the clutch uses an adjusting bolt, in place of the tabs, I use a long handled 3/8" drive ratchet. One full swing of the handle travel is about the same as one tab. So, 2-3 swings is usually enough.
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'93 W350 CC, LE, 5spd, HTT modded H1C, 4" DE
Sold- '99 3500 Q/C, SO CTD, 4x4, 5spd.
Traded off- '97 3500 C/C, 4x4, CTD
'92 W250, LE, CC, CTD w/ tweaked pump
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