how about the 7.8L Ford/New Holland diesel? - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-09-2005, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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how about the 7.8L Ford/New Holland diesel?

my buddy is looking at an 89 Ford L-9000 with a 7.8L engine, and a 6-speed. it's a long single axle flatbed dump, air brakes, 33,000 gvwr. not the prettiest truck (some rust), but it seems very mechanically sound, new brakes all around. it just needs some rear tires. I don't have any first-hand experience with the 7.8L engines, I have heard they are pretty reliable and fule efficent engines. I haven't driven the truck yet, the owner said it's a good runner and will do 70+ mph. is there anything specific to know or look for in these engines?? thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-09-2005, 06:33 PM
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Don,

The Ford 7.8L is a decent diesel engine. It was discontinued by Ford in ~1994. Everyone I know who has one, including my excavator, says it's OK.

My friend is a motorpool mechanic for a company with over 50 diesel trucks, quite a few are 7.8L in F-800's and he says they're comparable to a CAT 3208 turbo.

I think the only complaint is that naturally they're becoming more difficult to get parts for, but if he's even a little bit resourceful, he should have no problems. Might be good to pull one from a wreck and keep it around just in case.

Ford used them in their medium to big farm tractors and medium trucks for at least 10 years. I've seen the 7.8L in a 270HP rating in a F-900 tandem knuckle boom tree truck down here.

I think JakeGypsum might have one in one of his trucks????
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-09-2005, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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thanks Duke

I know Ford used them for a long time. the truck in question would be used to haul round bales in the summer and sileage in the winter, local trips only less than 30 miles, unless occasionally further for special pickups. I am gonna check it out, drive it and see if I like it, I'll probably be driving it a lot for him, he doesn't have a CDL, yet.

any other info on them would be appreciated.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-09-2005, 09:36 PM
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I've got one and it is very comparable to the 3208 and I've got 2 of them but when they got rid of it for the 8.3 cummins they lost alot of torque off the line but once it gets going look out. The parts are getting harder to find I had a warped head on mine last year and they ended up breaking off some little guides for I believe the rockers and they had to get them out of dallas and it took a few more days longer then quoted but still running strong as we speak.

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2005 F-250 Dark Toreador Red, Lariat Lux. package, 6.0 PSD, Torqueshift auto trans, 4x4, ESOF, tow command, Sirius Satellite radio, Retrax bed cover, Kermit Coolant filter, GOS Headlight harness, Fog light High beam Mod, Heated mirrors upfitter #1, AIC Upfitter #4, Wix Powertrap , Harpoon Mod, CCV mod, Magnaflow 4" turbo back and no kitty, Oil Guard by-pass, and Schaeffers 5w40.
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 12:23 AM
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We have one at work with 160k hard miles. In the past 5-6 years it's just needed belts. It responded to more fuel pretty well too :Thumbup: . It's an 89 F700 little bucket truck.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 VW R32.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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oh so they are easy to turn up??!!!!
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 12:37 PM
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But of course! I'd say you could do it in 15min. To the rear of the pump on the top is 2 different allen plugs. The bigger one is the fuel rate, and the smaller is the star wheel, or pre-boost smoke adjustment.To do the fuel you take off the plug with either a 3/8" or 10 mm allen wrench. Now tie up the fuel shutoff sol. or pull cable in the run position and you will see the adjustment screw. You may need to put a brick or such on the accelerator to keep the screw in the right spot under the hole. Break the jamb nut loose with a 3/8" or 10 mm deep socket and loosen the screw all the way. At this point it will be loose in the rack, but not fall in. Take some needle nose pliers and carefully remove the screw. Run the nut so there's 3-5 threads left on the screw(away from the head). Now (again-carefully) put the screw back in and tighten it with a regular slotted screwdriver up to the jamb nut. Then a good snug on the jamb nut and it's done. If you drop the screw inside the pump you can retrieve it easily with a pencil type magnet. Untie the shutdown sol. and remove the accelerator weight tool. Under the smaller allen plug is the star wheel. Take the plug off with either a 5/16" or 8mm allen wrench. Spin the star wheel towards the front of the pump(rotate towards the pass side) to increase low end power(smoke)and away for less low end smoke.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 VW R32.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 12:56 PM
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Dale,

Doe it use the same pump as our DT's?? (Bosch mechanical)
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 12:58 PM
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Almost the same exact pump, just on the other side of the engine and rotates the opposite direction.

Dale

my daily driver:67 F100, 300 4V, cammed, 4 spd.
or, 08 VW R32.
work rigs: 94 IH 4900, DT466(originally 230hp), #0 fuel plate, tighter gov springs, 22* timing
or, 06 IH 7400, DT466E, 300hp


My Low Buck fuel rate site:
www.freewebs.com/nevrenufhp
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-10-2005, 01:26 PM
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I've seen them turned way up in some Ford pulling tractors, but not in many trucks.
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