3406a help - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 12:01 PM Thread Starter
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3406a help

i am planning an inframe for my engine, (with ceramic and teflon coated pistons) and i need a good set of high flow injectors and some pump mods. i was thinking that i can make up for my lack of a charge air cooler with water methanol injection system (chemical intercooling). my engine is 30years old and i cant read any id tags on it so i really dont know what to do about this. if the inframe kit is the same as a 3406b can i just order a 425hp kit and have the good pistons and compression ratio? any advice would be nice
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post #2 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wkxpress View Post
i am planning an inframe for my engine, (with ceramic and teflon coated pistons) and i need a good set of high flow injectors and some pump mods. i was thinking that i can make up for my lack of a charge air cooler with water methanol injection system (chemical intercooling). my engine is 30years old and i cant read any id tags on it so i really dont know what to do about this. if the inframe kit is the same as a 3406b can i just order a 425hp kit and have the good pistons and compression ratio? any advice would be nice
the serial number should be stamped on the block somewhere near the tag, but you may as well wait for Tony's answers and get it right the first time

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post #3 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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Talking 3406a help

i did get the serial number off the block. 92u27127
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post #4 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-16-2009, 06:48 PM
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You already have the same exact pistons as in most 7FB and 4MG 3406B engines which are 14.5 compression ratio. But, why spend this money on an engine you won't get much power from? The A engine was never a powerhouse. Sure, you could slam your finger in the door before you drive it, and it would do ok, but that's it.

The pump has small barrells and plungers, and just does'nt push much fuel. The block won't accept a B pump, so the best thing to do is ditch it for a B or better yet, a C model. The reason I would go with a C is for durability reasons. And as far as teflon and ceramic coatings are concerned, don't waste your money.

Find you a good running C model, throw in a set of 10R-1439 cylinder packs. These consist of 14.6 comp ratio steel top pistons. Or you can seperately buy 125-8869 crowns, and 130-0241 skirts. Drill out the holes for the oil cooler nozzles to 7/16 and get the 277-3076 double nozzle oil coolers. Install a set of OR-8785 nozzles, and a 198123 B/M turbo and enjoy the amazing power and fuel mileage. You will push 38-40 lbs of boost, usually 195 water temp, and no higher than 1050 EGT's, and 6-6.5 MPG. All with spec. fuel settings. Turn the FLS and FTS out two rounds and then enjoy installing a 2050 fl/lb clutch.

I have built this combination on 3 of my trucks....one of which is JWAC. PM me and I can give you all the info you need.
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post #5 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 07:58 AM
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Why run steel top pistons in a motor meant for the street?


To the OP, you have an A model that doesnt have an air cooler on it, just wondering what the factory rating is on it, and as far as the water/methanol you would have to have a rather large tank and a pretty good pump to supply enough to make a difference.

I would suggest finding a blown up motor that has one it and do the conversion, or depending on what kind of truck your working with maybe an air to air set up, if there is no room for that, it kinda excludes the C model motor anyways.

If this thing is being built for the road, I would just rebuild it to a 400 and tune the pump a little and call it a day.

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post #6 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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3406a help

it will be a street engine and i only want the water kit for the cooling efect, not a power adder, as i dont have room for an air to air. ceramic coating is the way to go. i have been building engines for years, just not cats(first one). less friction = more power. i am not trying to build a fire breathing monster out of an a model. just 500hp or so. i kinda figured that if i have to pull this motor, i wanna replace it with a kta cummins. tough to agrue with 19 liters and 800 hp
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post #7 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 01:13 PM
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Maybe so, but for the money that you will spend on finding the KTA, I would go the route Sledman suggested, unless you have one on hand. Without any type of cooler 500 will be pretty tough, but if you find a WJAC to put on it you shold be able to get that with just a little tuning, do you know if your motor is a direct injection or indirect.
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post #8 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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3406a help

i do have an after cooler on the engine, but no intercooler. can someone look up the serial number and tell me if i have a di or idi? i cant find any info on tha web
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post #9 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 11:00 PM
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Does it have glow plugs? If you pre-heat to start, it's a IDI, or pre combustion engine. And yes, according to Cat's SIS, it is a DI engine......at least that's the way it came.
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post #10 of 33 (permalink) Old 11-17-2009, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SledMan View Post
You already have the same exact pistons as in most 7FB and 4MG 3406B engines which are 14.5 compression ratio. But, why spend this money on an engine you won't get much power from? The A engine was never a powerhouse. Sure, you could slam your finger in the door before you drive it, and it would do ok, but that's it.

The pump has small barrells and plungers, and just does'nt push much fuel. The block won't accept a B pump, so the best thing to do is ditch it for a B or better yet, a C model. The reason I would go with a C is for durability reasons. And as far as teflon and ceramic coatings are concerned, don't waste your money.

Find you a good running C model, throw in a set of 10R-1439 cylinder packs. These consist of 14.6 comp ratio steel top pistons. Or you can seperately buy 125-8869 crowns, and 130-0241 skirts. Drill out the holes for the oil cooler nozzles to 7/16 and get the 277-3076 double nozzle oil coolers. Install a set of OR-8785 nozzles, and a 198123 B/M turbo and enjoy the amazing power and fuel mileage. You will push 38-40 lbs of boost, usually 195 water temp, and no higher than 1050 EGT's, and 6-6.5 MPG. All with spec. fuel settings. Turn the FLS and FTS out two rounds and then enjoy installing a 2050 fl/lb clutch.

I have built this combination on 3 of my trucks....one of which is JWAC. PM me and I can give you all the info you need.
Well, I feel I have done a fine job of not touching any of your posts, nor do I care to, as most of the info is very correct, hence my lack of appearance on the board. Something of this magnitude needs addressed tho.

An "A" block is a B block, which is why those two huge holes and 2:00 feeder holes are so close together where the pump mounts. Change covers and it is a B. This is the third time this has been addressed in the last six months, apparently to no avail...

The rest, again, I will not go near
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