2000 Chevy 6500 with cat 3126 - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-30-2010, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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2000 Chevy 6500 with cat 3126

I am looking at a 2000 chevy6500 with a 3126 cat and a 6 speed manual. I was wondering if this is a good idea for recreational towing and putting about 8k on the bed of it and towing my 6k camper. What are the problems with the engine or tranny and stuff? Should I shy away or go for it I will be able to get it for about 6k
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 03-31-2010, 01:40 AM Thread Starter
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The sticker on the engine says MAX.
ADV.
kw(hp)
246 (330)
Does this mean its a 330 hp motor? Thats the way it seems to me but any help or opinions are very valuable to me, this will be my first medium duty truck that I will own and not just drive, I hope to make an informed opinion.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-05-2010, 02:41 AM
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3126 cat

the 3126 cat is a strong engine, they start well in cold weather reasonably reliable the only problem is some injector problems, of which you shouldn't have any problem if you stay up on oil changes the fuel system is run of oil pressure much like the ford powerstroke. the oil capacity is 5 gal so you don't have to change it every 3000 miles but try not to stretch it over 7000 miles. The fan hub has to be greased manually there is a grease Zerk is visible from the drivers side. GM however only bought the programming from cat to obtain a max road speed of 75 mph from 00 up 70 mph from mid 98 to 00, but according to what you are saying about the engine tag of max 330 hp you should already have every thing in the engine (injectors, damper,turbo and such) to obtain that 330hp by purchasing the program from a cat distributor, you will have to pay a EPA charge for higher hp programming. They also can be reprogrammed to run a max speed of 83mph how ever that program is relatively expensive I believe in 00 when i purchased my truck new cat charged me about 1800 dollars to reprogram just for higher road speed they did not change the hp rating at all. Over all I like the 3126 over the isb Cummings especially those models of isb's and isc's that had the caps style fuel pump I think 98 through 01 may be even 02, but properly maintained the 3126 will live quite long Ive got 300,000 miles on my truck now and it still runs strong.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-06-2010, 12:53 AM
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Except for the warrenty charge when the vehicle is new, for a HP change, and you have to check all the numbers to see if the clutch, transmision, drivelines and diffs will handle the HP and torque increase. I have never heard of an charge to change the road speed. I would take it in to a truck dealler, and ask for a printout, of all codes and events. I do not know why you would want a high road speed, but you can have any speed you want it is not a protected paramater. Just a thought!

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-07-2010, 04:34 PM
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cdwood388,
I see you trying to choose between Chevy/Cat/6spd Fuller(?) and 97 IHC4700 with DT466/Allison.

I have both, 2002 GMC T6500 w/Cat/Alison and 1995 IHC4700 DT466/Fuller. My personal preference is IHC.
  • Many mechanics prefer DT466 over any engine.
  • IHC has better resale value.
  • I think IHC gives you better service (vary dealer to dealer)
  • IHC has more parts available on second market.
  • IHC is more common truck (you can by donor truck for peanuts)
  • And MOST important: You will get more help for TDG guys for IHC.

If it's not diesel - it's my chainsaw.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 01:14 PM
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I too have both models, as well as many others. Id go with the IHC w/ DT series motor anyday. Right now I am having a problem with my Cat 3126 blowing the dipstick out of the tube and shutting down. Will only run for 10 minutes or so then done. Any ideas?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 04:23 PM
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First thing I would do is drain the oil filter and look for metal sounds to me like you have a torn up cylinder. If you keep running it you will contaminate everything. If you find metal on the oil drain plug pull the pan and you should be able to see the cylinders enough to know for sure. You can have the block bored and a dry sleeve pushed in then bored to spec. If that is not the problem it is possible you have a lot of air past the valve guides, you would need boost to do it then and to test put air into the intake, 30 lbs. Call different truck, and tractor dealers to find a machine shop that does the block. Just a thought!

1988 ford van fresh overhaul, 1991 nissan pick-up 1993 Caprice 2000 GMC S10 Blaser 2007 nbs 3500 GMC 4x4 crew-cab long box 17 inch single wheels Duramax Alison. BW turnover Ball. Furakawa FL35 loader. Retired, HD mechanic, worked on engines all my life. Fabricator welder. electrician. in the process of finishing my new shop. Live in Rock Creek B.C. Wife has a fruit stand.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-26-2010, 04:51 PM
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wow damn! that bad huh? well my boss is a cheap *** and if i tell him what you have suggested hes prolly just gonna shrug it off and call me a dumb ***. thanks for your input though, I appreciate it. ill tell him, hopefully the motor does blow...
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-18-2010, 03:50 PM
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i bought a 2000 gmc 6 speed, with 3126 in it- just trying to learn a bit about it- what is the difference between 3126 and 3126b ? how can i tell which one is in my gmc? and is 15w40 the usual oil for these engines?
thanks . nathan.
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