I will be getting new brakes in the next couple of months. I want to replace the rotors with some drilled and sloted rotors and some good pads, any ideas, and where to get them:thanks: . See ya:popcorn:

IMO, the fancy brakes arent worth it on our heavy rigs. They work great on light sports cars and such, but I have yet to see anyone who can offr up proof that they are worth the extra expense. Some say they may even INCREASE your stopping distance because the holes and slots reduce surface area for the pads to grip on.

Well I've heard people are having good luck with the Hawk performance pads and some Power Slot rotors. Heck I have drums in the rear so my best bet would be to upgrade to disks.

The biggest advantage to drilled and slotted rotors is heat dissapation, IMHO I want a set next go around, I keep warping mine :shrug:

Dave, any info on the hawk rotors and pads. I am just trying to see what is out there:Thumbup: . :thanks: for the info. See ya:popcorn:

Here are the Superduty or severe duty pads..http://www.hawkperformance.com/truck/superduty.php They also have some other ones, but these would be best for our application. Also check out www.powerslot.com They have a little page on the Hawk Performance pads and their own PowerSlot rotors.

:Thumbup: Cool thanks, they look like what I was looking for. :thanks: for the info. See ya:popcorn:

Not a problem! I'll be upgrading to the Hawk pads atleast. My current ones from Tires Plus create so much brake dust its unreal and they squeak all the dang time..Also I bought some from AutoZone that where just as bad..Its very, very annoying. :poke: Plus I have to clean my wheels like once a week to keep them half way decent looking. :barf:

There was a post about this on TDR not too long ago, but basically they said go with slotted not drilled. The drilled will tend to crack. There are slotted and dimpled rotors I think that weren't prone to cracking like the drilled ones. I have slotted on my 97. I can't compare the difference because the previous owner put them on. I will try to dig up the post on TDR.

Yeah if you do dig it up do mind copying and pasting it here? I'm not a memeber and cant read there posts. Thanks for the info on the drilled and slotted.

:agreed: that would be good reading. :thanks: I would like all the info before dropping the cash:Thumbup: . See ya:popcorn:

I will post some of it for you, since most of it is recomendations of brands.

"Stay away from drilled rotors. The holes were originally done years ago for pads that outgassed - where the old glues they used would heat up and produce a gas that would actually hold the pad off the rotor. Current pads don't have this problem.
Drilling also leads to stress points where their sharp edges meet the face of the rotor. Even if they are countersunk, the inside (vented area) can't be.
They also remove surface area from the rotor, which is the #1 thing you want to increase"

"Well said! My slotted and cross-drilled rotors stopped worse and still warped in no time."

"Take a look at the Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads combination. I would NEVER have belived they would be any better than stock rotors, being the true skeptic that I am, but one day my Auto Meter, Superchips, MBRP, MSD rep was in my office when I was *****ing out the dealer about brake shudder. He made me a deal, free Powerslot rotors and Hawk pads. If it fixes the problem you have to start selling them thru DPPI. The rotors and pads have been great, no shudder, shorter stopping distances and so far I have never been able to make the fade either. They have two lines a standard slotted line,(what I have hard to complain with free you know) and a Cryo frozen line that runs approx 35-45.00 dollars more per rotor. If you tow heavy and are a hard person on brakes get the cyro frozen ones, it's the max there is. The Hawk pads are available in three different compounds too based on your uses. Keith Lockliear is right about drilled rotors, still in use in rice rockets etc and racing, but not good for heavy trucks. They will crack etc and cause you all sorts or grief. Slotted allows the dust and gasses to escape and still keep the rotor solid. If you want to speak to a believer call me I have since gotten them for my wifes Infinity and they work great on it too!
On edit one of the main causes of brake problems today is a caliper that doesn't move freely in it's mount, so whatever you do make sure the caliper is lubed and is able to easily slide left and right in it's mount. No matter what rotors you get if the caliper is stuck you 'll still have problems later.
Mark @ DPPI"

Other posts say EGR rotors are good. Brembo also makes a quality rotor.

Hope this helps alittle.

Here is a link (http://www.tdr1.com/forums/search.php?searchid=1106219). Not sure if it will work if you are not members.

Nice. Thanks for the forward. I'll deffinently be calling mark as he is a vendor over on DTR.com and he may be able to get a better price on them. I'll deffinently be getting the Hawk pads next goround. Which one do you guys prefer...The superduty or the ones right below them?

Sweet, thanks for the info. Mark is a vendor on this site too:Thumbup: . When the time comes I will be giving him a call. Thanks again for the post. See ya:popcorn:

Rotor warp comes from over sized tires (high rotational mass) "quick cooling" the rotors, excessive brake drag (from brake ride and/or riding the brakes) and worn parts.


I think the new or new'ish brake fluid would help all of our trucks. I think it's the 5.1 or maybe the 5.4 fluid...can't remember?:shrug: