Do many kenworth W9's crack the frame by the front spring hanger? [Archive] - TheDieselGarage.com

: Do many kenworth W9's crack the frame by the front spring hanger?


SmoothTightKittyCAT
04-25-2012, 04:14 PM
Was told by some co-workers that they are prone to cracking the frame behind the front spring hanger, near where the hood meets the cab. How long would a weld job last if this happens?

midnitetrucker7
04-25-2012, 04:53 PM
I have fixed four of them. Crack starts where shackle hanger is riveted through bottom flange of the frame. I weld the crack up then put a liner inside from front of frame to one foot behind the break. I also change out the shacle hanger for one from a K100 cabover. It doesnt use the bottom bolt through the frame flange.

K-D
04-27-2012, 01:02 AM
I have fixed two,both started where the bottom bolt for the hanger goes through the flange.
Funny how they put a sticker on the frame telling you not to drill the frame flange but they do it at the factory.

SmoothTightKittyCAT
04-27-2012, 03:38 AM
i never looked close up at a kw frame. how is the spring hanger fastened to the frame? is the cracking a frame issue or the spring hanger torkin' things up and eventually causing cracks?

SmoothTightKittyCAT
04-27-2012, 03:40 AM
I might as well disclose that i''m thinkin of lookin at one with a vertical weld that runs the up and down length of frame right behind the passenger spring hanger..

Johnp3
04-27-2012, 07:26 PM
I do not know about KW but frames have a very long warranty, it costs nothing to ask.
I have replaced frames with cracks also welded up a lot more.

Rogerstar1
04-27-2012, 08:20 PM
I have replaced frames with cracks also welded up a lot more.

No cracks that I am aware of in my 235 inch 1971 aluminum frame. But I would like a little longer and a steel rail to avoid electrolysis. Unbolting the entire aluminum frame rail and pulling it out from one vehicle end or the other and using it as a pattern for hole drilling my second-hand 265 inch steel frame rail sounds pretty simple. But I'm wondering if it really is. In addition to some jacks and jack stands is a hoist or two necessary to support one entire side of the truck while the swap is made? Then switch over to the otherside of the vehicle and do the second one? Or am I kidding myself?

I saw a guy on the Beltway the other day with a sign deriving from the "Got Milk?" commercial. It read: "Got Frame Rail?" And he surely did ... about seven feet between the back of the sleeper to his fifth wheel.

:rockchoppingwood:rockchoppingwood:

Apologies to those who keep their sock drawers sorted. Hadn't meant to hi-jack the man's thread...just wasn't thinking

Lmackattack
04-27-2012, 09:13 PM
simple answer is its a known issue.. If I recall they drilled a hole in the flange for the rear spring hanger? Why I have no clue. drilling into the flange has always been considered a big no no?????

tc2
04-28-2012, 12:06 AM
That's about it.
drive the truck in, unbolt everything piece by piece, jack the component up and put it on stands just enough to take the weight off, repeat. you need a lot of stands to do it
The one dealership I used to work for did quite a few. One rail at a time, lots and lots of stands.



Unbolting the entire aluminum frame rail and pulling it out from one vehicle end or the other and using it as a pattern for hole drilling my second-hand 265 inch steel frame rail sounds pretty simple. But I'm wondering if it really is.

Johnp3
04-28-2012, 12:08 AM
Freightliner has two mounting bolts threw the lower flange to mount the front spring rear hanger.
Rodgerstar1 the frame rails are measure to the outside, all the cross-members used on an Aluminum frame are narrower, because the frame is thicker.
Drilling a blank rail is not difficult I did it on a couple of units on Freightliners, the nose to the back of the front mounts are standard.

Johnp3
04-28-2012, 12:14 AM
I did one unit, I had both rails out before the new ones came in you take the wheels off the drive axles and just put on the outside ones, put jack stands under the input yokes, supporting the rear of the motor I made a stand. The rest is just jack stands and blocking.

AaronF
04-28-2012, 01:02 AM
From my experience drilling frame rails while using an old one as a template, take the pass side old rail and put the outside of it against the outside of the drivers side new rail. Drill the holes, then take the drivers side new rail with holes drilled, and put it aganst the new undrilled pass side rail and drill the holes. Both rails are now done. Just put the side that is apart back together and then pull the oposite side apart and swap.

I would use a few "C" clamps to hold the rails together for the drilling once aligned properly. Also use a mag drill if you can. It makes the drilling go much faster, and the holes are much more accurate.

Good luck.

midnitetrucker7
04-30-2012, 03:40 PM
To add to AaronF's post I would also measure what size holes you need to drill and purchase somme drill guides for your pilot holes. Especially if your trying to redtill without a mag drill. This will keep the bit from walking. Also whenever I drill in a frame I drill slightly undersized and then use a dreamer to finish the hole

379Longhood
04-30-2012, 10:01 PM
IF you are planning to pattern drill a new frame using the old oposite as a template clamp it as described above and cut theholes with a hole saw prefferably in a drill press. This works way better than coring holes with a pain in the ***** over priced magdrill , core bits are about $65 a pop and good holesaws (5/8) are about $10 and will drill more holes.

Johnp3
04-30-2012, 11:17 PM
I never used the old, opposite frame rail as a pattern. Just a tape measure and a laser liner to get the suspension right. I used a 1/8 drill bit, a 1/4 drill bit, a 3/8 drill bit. a 1/2 inch reamer, 5/8 reamer/ and a 3/4 inch reamer, and a pail of water. Most of the drill chips, fell into the pail and kept the work area cleaner. I had two 3/8 air drills and a HD 1/2 air drill.
We had a huge drill that you chained to the frame and drilled, Personally I did it by hand, the big drill took longer to set up than it was worth, same as the mag drill.
Just a thought!

perrykit
05-11-2012, 08:20 PM
hogan bit is the only way to go. 1 bit will cut every hole in both frame rails if kept cool with water and water soluble oil mixed