Ok, gauges are on the way! Now, how do I install them? What all else do I need other than the stuff coming with them? I ordered a big package, gauges, and the fittings and lines with them. The Pyro is coming with a thermocouple, and the FP gauge is coming with an Isolator and tubing.

What else do I need to do an install on my 98.5 24V? I've heard of guys puttin needle valves on thier FP gauges to prevent the needle from bouncing around.. and Geno's Garage has some kind of little banjo bolt adapter thing. Do I need any of these other items? The banjo adapter is like 30 bucks, and I'd like to get around using that if I could, but if I gotta have it, then I gotta have it. LOL.

So let me know what some of ya'lls set up's are, and any tips, or tricks to doing this install.

this link helped alot on the pyro

http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=63872&highlight=installing+gauges


the fuel pressure gauge would be alot easier if you use the banjo bolt adapter. i think. some one else may have a better suggestion. as far as the fp install the intructions with it should explain the rest.

these might help for the banjo adapter

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f148/Stockton296/DSCF1656.jpg" border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f148/Stockton296/DSCF1654.jpg" border="0" alt="Image hosting by Photobucket"></a>

We use the banjo adapters...I think we still have some instock.

Here is another one for you to think about. All the fp gauges that we have installed the isolator was not used. What is used is a needle valve that you can pick up at any napa store. The needle valve is to stop the pulsation of the lift pump and over time will kill the gauge. Just crack open the valve and you are good to go.
Every isolator that I have installed has been removed. I dont like the idea of having to fill the line with coolant and water every now and then to get the gauge to work.
Nothing to worry about with live fuel in the cab..you have the needle valve that will shut it off if needed.
Also I dont put the fp gauge in the A-pillar. It goes in a single gauge holder just above the left edge of the tunnel on the bottom lip of the dash..Still in clear site and easy to get to and no liquid running up into the A-pillar...

Rick

do you have a napa partr number for the needle valve??

i might go that route also!

No but I can get it...

Rick

I put my FP gauge in the Dash cubby hole, there is a mounting kit for it, I think it looks pretty good, but that just me, I'll post a pic of mine a bit later. I don't like running fuel into the cab personally, so my gauge is currently disconnected. I had an issue with my line leaking out side, in the engine compartment, and then running back down the line and leaking all over my floor. Diesel fumes suck, your cab.
Sean

sstockton,

We've seen lots of leakers and diesel fuel is pretty clever at escaping etc. If you get some on the carpet or whatever you will also never get the smell out, altough I like it some folks don't! We ALWAYS reccomend an isolator, some of the older designs have been failure prone, but we have always used a pancake style that is about as simple as it gets and we have never had an issue. The easy way to fill the isolator to gauge line is use a 50/50 mix of water and aitifreeze and use a syringe to fill it. Most drug stores will sell you one for a buck or two. If you have any questions let us know we have all the parts available etc.

Mark @ DPPI

Never had one leak yet! The way we install ours was tested on my wifes truck first to make sure it was going to hold and not leak..NO LEAKS,NO DRIPS,NO ERRORS.....Dont like to have customers come back because of a problem like this or their gauge goes not read correctly.
Here is something else...a lot of people use to and still do run a "live" oil pressure gauges...


Rick

Yeah, I picked up an isolator, and the one I got comes pre filled then I have to fill the gauge, they also provided a syringe to fill the gauge as well. Now I just need a 30psi gauge, over my 15, and I need a T to splice into the line on my F.A.S.S. pump, other than that, it should be pretty simple. Thanks guys.

Oh yeah, Rick, how do you install yours, if there is anyway, to do it, and have it for sure leak proof, that is the way I'd like to go, the isolator does seem like it may be a hassle.
Sean

My westech has an isolator that makes an electric signal that sends the info to the gauge. No fuel in the cab, and it works great:Thumbup: . Cowboy what gauge did you get from Geno's? If it is the westech it is easy to hook up. I got one of their 18" hoses with the schrader valve on it. I connected it to the injector pump then that goes to the isolator.

I looked into running an electric gauge and snubber, like you are talking about haz-mat, and I may have to, because Autometer doesn't offer a mechanical in 30psi, and I want it too match. However, the electric guage costs 200 something dollars, so we'll see what I decided to do.
Sean

i want a cobalt to match mine but its like $200 and its full sweep electric.

wonder if i can use the isolator and another boost gauge???
it would be easy to tell the differance boost goes up with rpm
fuel pressure would go down, right??

what do you think???

I'm like Haz, I have a Westach Electric FP guage so the fuel stays where it should, under the hood. Get the schraeder valve adaptor form Geno's to hook it up with or a drilled banjo bolt, those are the easiest two methods I know of for the FP.

Ok, gauges are on the way! Now, how do I install them? What all else do I need other than the stuff coming with them? I ordered a big package, gauges, and the fittings and lines with them. The Pyro is coming with a thermocouple, and the FP gauge is coming with an Isolator and tubing.

What else do I need to do an install on my 98.5 24V? I've heard of guys puttin needle valves on thier FP gauges to prevent the needle from bouncing around.. and Geno's Garage has some kind of little banjo bolt adapter thing. Do I need any of these other items? The banjo adapter is like 30 bucks, and I'd like to get around using that if I could, but if I gotta have it, then I gotta have it. LOL.

So let me know what some of ya'lls set up's are, and any tips, or tricks to doing this install.
If your 98.5 is like my 99 and you got the Westech gauge from genos, it will come with a sending unit that will mount right on top of the fuel filter. Then the wires run inside the cab to the gauge. It is easy and you don't need any adapter or schrader valve. The schrader's worked good for the 2000 and up as they change the cap on the filter and there is no place else to mount it. Any electric gauge should come with a sending unit that will mount right on top of the stock filter.