This is the home made #0 plates I have. Start with the flat spot on the top of stock plate and go straight down.

If you look in the TDR, there are a couple of things more to do with it then just grinding the plate flat. My brother posted it under WShupe on the Comp fourm.

http://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=128443

Hmmmm, I like that idea. I'll have to look under there this weekend.

Thanks!

Maybe I should've started this in the "How-to" forum......too late now.


New news: I opened up the AFC, & there's about .030" that can be taken off of that little dog-leg part. I'm not going to mess with it just yet.

So, how do the 0* plates compare to the fuel plates you could previously by? Neighbor came down last night and he is shopping for a 95 2500 and I am trying to bone up on my 12V knowledge a little bit.

So are 0* streetable for the average crowd?

a 0 plate is as aggressive as it gets without totally removing the plate all together. The start around #13 for a close to stock plate, then on down to 10. After that the lower rpm becomes the bigger punch from an 8 down to 0. In a 95 auto, I'd say it'll make it to about 240hp, and 260hp with a manual(if the plate is slid all the way forward). Also, the plates under a #10 are more friendly to street racing than towing heavy loads. It also can trash a stock auto tranny or stock style clutch. Don't forget the gauges! It's a lot of fun, and cant ever have enuf hp!

Cool. Thanks for explaining all the numbers. I usually tinker or Ford's but got a couple 6 cylinder guys wantin some help. I assume your numbers are without injectors, so numbers should increase when increasing size on injectors.
Thanks again for the info.

Yep, those are flywheel hp guesstimations for 94 & 95's. If it doesn't tow, try talking him into 370's! :evil: 3k gov springs would really help on all 94-98 12v dodges(unless you're greedy & want more rpm like me), or for a low buck alternative you can tighten the stock gov springs for a couple hundred more rpm(see my home page in my profile). What I didnt list there is you can go thru the top by removing the fuel plate to tighten the springs. Going thru the top is much faster & nothing else to disassemble. Actually you may want to start with sliding the stock plate forward, and doing the gov springs & see how they like it. :smoke:

try this, i have put in 6 or so and every one is very happy. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v642/C4L/1994%202500/homeground100plate.jpg

That blows my cheap camera out of the water! I'm up to 3 now. Love the lower end power!

So, how much HP/TQ can be gained by pushing the stock plate forward, and what is the most extreme plate without totally removing it? The TS 750?

Dom

Sliding the stocker full forward is good for about 50-70hp on a 160-180hp, and about 100hp on a 215. This is approximation from what others have told me, not true gains. The TST#0 plate is the most extreme, there's nothing left as far as any defueling. I'm sure the TS-750 is right up there with it.

yea, the 750 is really agressive.

Dom

The 750 is the #10 plate, designed by Joe Donnelly. Grinding fuel curves on a stock fuel plate is tacky at best if the governor arm is not adjusted properly. And a #0 fuel plate full forward will not allow full fuel because of the AFC arm restriction. Hp numbers depend strictly on pump specs, like plunger-barrel size, delivery valves, and injectors. Proper tuning makes any plate streetable, and the best outcome. :smoke: :smoke:

couldnt see the pics.