Just picked up an old Ford with the 7.3L IDI and I have some questions for you all. I've had experience with gas, this is my first Diesel. So this new (to me) truck has some issues... I was hopin' you guys could sort me out:

1) There are fuel leaks everywhere! The lines running inbetween injectors seem to be pooling fuel all over the engine. So I get the injector install kit...now what? how hard is it to pull the injectors? Do I need a torque wrench? I think I saw 18 lbs for the nut on the injectors. The Fuel filter has a big metal knob on the bottom and is leaking. How do I get that thing off?!

2) Hard starting....sometimes. I think I got this one, but I've never had dual batteries. I put one new battery in after I got caught outside in the (-20) cold and noticed I had pretty ancient batteries that were not taking a charge. Seems like it'll kick over instantly or it trys real quick then runs out of juice in a hurry. Any tips on checking the generator? My volts always seem to be on the low side on the dash.

3) White smoke. I imagine this has something to do with the leaks in the fuel lines, once I get those replaced I'll run a fuel system cleaner through. Is some smoke to be expected in real cold temps? (-20)

4) Temp indicator on dash. I realize these are dummy gauges, but I'd like to have something to tell me to panic if I have to. Where is the sensor for this gauge?

Thanks for the awesome forum, I'm looking forward to working on this monster motor. One last thing, what repair manuals would anyone reccomend? the Haynes diesel motor for this year has GMC too... Any good?

The fuel lines and caps from the injectors are needing to be replaced, but that does not require the removal of the injectors, just the fuel lines. You take the plastic caps off, replace the orings, and install the new caps and lines.
The hard starting is caused by the leaks of the return lines. Get them fixed and it will help. If it remains hard starting, then the glow plugs are next, and quite likely bad, as it has the white smoke that indicates one or more cylinders aren't up to firing temps.
I would simply put on an aftermarket gauge rather than count on a light to tell me when it's too late... The sender is on the front of the head, but without looking, can't say which one, as the other is for the glow plug controller.
The haynes manual you speak of is ok for most of what you do, just when it comes to diagnstics it basically isn't worth the paper it's made of... that's when you come ask questions.

I agree with all but 2 points above the white smoke can also be cause by air in the fuel caused by the leaks you have in the return system .. as for the gauge there are 2 senders in the front of the left head a smaller one and a larger one one is for the gauge one is for the idot light .. the 3rd temp sender in the right head is for the timing advance and cold idle step up motor NONE of these switches have anything to do with the glow plug system

i realize this is an old post, but i am trying to find the part number for the return line kit. been t oford and international, both seem clueless,but they told me to find the number and they probably have the kit. any help is greatly appreciated,thanks,Doug...

It is listed as an injector installation kit, comes with the o-rings, copper washers, as well as the caps, fule lines and clamps.
The kit I just got from a local supplier is a Dipaco brand, pn. DPE69120 Cost about $35. Napa carries them, but they wanted $85.

Batteries get old, with more than one battery they should be replaced as a set.
When setting in cool weather a strong battery will supply charge to the weak battery with the resultant heat to the weak battery which will pump juice back to the new battery. Net result both batteries discharged in 3-7 days. Better results with one strong battery or disconnect the ground on all but one when leaving it more than overnight.

This is the time to check the batteries, clean the tops so they do not self discharge through the gringe when the wet goes from post to post. Clean the terminals to brighter than new aluminum color and dip the terminal in oil to seal out the air and prevent corrosion. The oil will be squeezed out when the terminal is tightened.

If there is white fuzz it can be removed with bicarbonate of soda ( the yellow box in the kitchen ) - about a quart mixed until no more disolves. Don't get this in the acid inside the battery. It will wick down the split battery cable and stop the corrosion.

It also makes a good fire extingusher for when you have a little fire or don't have a regular one. The bicarbonate of soda is used in some fire extingushers.
It kills the battery acid if it is spilled at an accident or a broken battery case.

keydl

If there is white fuzz it can be removed with bicarbonate of soda ( the yellow box in the kitchen ) - about a quart mixed until no more disolves. Don't get this in the acid inside the battery. It will wick down the split battery cable and stop the corrosion.

It also makes a good fire extingusher for when you have a little fire or don't have a regular one. The bicarbonate of soda is used in some fire extingushers.
It kills the battery acid if it is spilled at an accident or a broken battery case.

keydl
What keydl is saying is a simple chemistry procedure. Taking a strong base(baking soda) and mixing it with a strong acid(battery acid) will neutralize both base and acid. Def keep it away from the acid in the battery! you could get hurt from such a reaction(depending on how much base you have to limit the reaction.) You can watch the baking soda solution eat away the corrosion on the terminals. much easier than scrubbing them clean and more effective.

With the batteries you def need to replace them both and it helps to get the biggest(highest amperage) to be able to spin that big motor as fast as possible. The faster it spins the easier it is to start. Diesels have to spin fast enough or they wont ignite unlike a gasser.