Swamps Diesel Hot FICM Tests [Archive] - Page 3 - TheDieselGarage.com

: Swamps Diesel Hot FICM Tests


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gtdan01
12-07-2010, 01:48 AM
I noticed cold running improvement but I believe it is because my injectors are on their way out.

bismic
12-07-2010, 04:10 AM
Hope this hasn't been posted before in this long thread, but I just read on the PHP forum that the 58V FICM is likely to cause a P0611 DTC.

strokin6L
12-08-2010, 12:16 AM
Hope this hasn't been posted before in this long thread, but I just read on the PHP forum that the 58V FICM is likely to cause a P0611 DTC.

So most likely when it throws the P0611 code, does that mean that the FICM is on it's way out with the PHP 58V FICM, or is the FICM still good but just throws the code anyways? And when it does throw a code, does it also set a CEL?

bismic
12-08-2010, 01:03 AM
The code is a false code. Apparently the Ford software has an upper limit also, and it isn't expecting to see a value that high. There was no mention of a specific voltage that triggered the code (that I recall reading anyway).

I don't know about the CEL either.

hhrecovery
12-08-2010, 01:04 AM
P0611 is a FICM performance and is thrown at too low or too HIGH a voltage. So the 58V ficm will always throw that soft code but it is nothing to be worried about...

BTW.... Swamps FICMs are a lot cheaper

wastedwagesracing
12-08-2010, 01:06 AM
P0611 is a FICM performance and is thrown at too low or too HIGH a voltage. So the 58V ficm will always throw that soft code but it is nothing to be worried about...

BTW.... Swamps FICMs are a lot cheaper

Aaron if you have done this to any trucks. I'd be interested in your opinion on this mod.

bismic
12-08-2010, 01:10 AM
P0611 is a FICM performance and is thrown at too low or too HIGH a voltage. So the 58V ficm will always throw that soft code but it is nothing to be worried about...

BTW.... Swamps FICMs are a lot cheaper

Yup. For some (me included I suppose) the code would be enough to pass on the upgrade. I would just not want a constant code thrown. The advertised benefit is 40+ hp gain and a lot stronger "motive force" to shuttle the spool (so less potential for stiction), so it IS very enticing.

hhrecovery
12-08-2010, 01:12 AM
Aaron if you have done this to any trucks. I'd be interested in your opinion on this mod.

I have done this on quite a few trucks now and a few of the guys have said that they can tell a difference in the truck than before... BUT everyone of them that I have done has been because there FICM was out or almost out... I do have a new 58V at my shop so I might throw it in my truck and run it for a couple days to see if I can tell anything...

SICKS-O
12-08-2010, 06:56 AM
figured id post a status update, these are strictly my findings on my personal truck. other peoples experiences may be different but this is what i have gathered.

i ran a 58v modded ficm in my truck for almost a year, always got the p0611 code with it.
seems as if bumping up the output voltage screws with the FICMs ability to correct for weak injectors, atleast from how smooth my engine runs and what i can see on our wds. the power balance graph was alot more erratic with the modded dc-dc board. i have since swapped out that board for another one that isnt modified and have only seen positive improvements. 1) smooth running truck 2) quieter injectors 3) a smoother graph on a power balance test

in camparison i did not notice any difference in cold start runability between the two boards, i have tried each with and without inductive heat calibrations. one would assume the 58v board would aid in cold runability especially with no inductive heat but i did not see any difference between a 48v & 58v board with or without inductive heat.

i am going to stick with a stock board in my truck. i want to say that there are other things in the FICM that need to be changed or adjusted inconjunction with increasing the output voltage. this is purely theory but considering how complex of a device the FICM is it makes sense to me how solely increasing the output voltage with no other changes can negatively effect its performance or functionality. i have been wondering if the designed output voltage is accounted for in the FICMs logic for firing the injectors, one would think that different output voltages would yeild different injector response times. how fast the injectors respond to the FICMs signal to open or close the spool valve obviously can greatly effect how these engines run.

the big question ive had is if the FICM is calibrated for response times with a 48v output.
if it is than this would mean there is more to this modification to have it work properly.

these are purely thoughts that have crossed my mind, something i wanted to share with the rest of you.

bakantor
12-08-2010, 04:17 PM
Sick-o, seems like some good thoughts on the subject.

Has anyone verified whether the injectors actually see the 58V directly from the power supply? If not, I still suspect the 48V output is further "refined" prior to reaching the injectors. Thus, going to 58V just provides more headroom.

I do think a properly working 48V FICM is still the best way to go. Bumping the voltage helps cover many issues that may be present, at least for awhile.

To anyone thinking about bumping your voltage, make sure the FICM is 100% prior to modification (check those electrolytic caps!).

pstrang
12-08-2010, 04:56 PM
I've been running my custom 58V Hot FICM (with ID flash) for 8 months or so. I did a thorough upgrade job, replacing MOSFETs, Capacitors, and resistors. Very happy with it, truck runs smooth.

However, I did *not* see any of the benefits that I hoped for: 1) fuel economy, 2) cold start romps. I like the extra juice being sent to the injectors, but it might lead to premature failure. Conversely, it might extend the life of the injectors with more solenoid force to overcome mechanical weaknesses. Who knows!? :shrugs

I plan on running my modded HOT FICM until failure. Oh, and I haven't gotten any codes or CELs.

greyhorse001
12-14-2010, 09:06 PM
Several folks are just doing a 10k add on resistor to up the voltage and seem to be getting by. I personally have a problem running 57-58 volts through 50v rated components as do others on this forum and elsewhere.

I have been repairing / rebuilding 6.0L FICM for service shops in north Texas for some time now.

For those of you that just have to have it;
I have a hot mod parts kit available with all the correctly rated components i.e., temperature, voltage, etc. You can to this yourself if you have the capability or you can send your unit to me to have them installed.

PM if interested

Be advised that if you donít know what you are doing you can easily destroy some of the components trying to install them or possibly damage the circuit boards they go on.

desertt5
12-14-2010, 11:42 PM
Are the parts for a 4 or 7 screw FICM greyhorse?

greyhorse001
12-15-2010, 01:07 AM
either

greyhorse001
12-15-2010, 03:34 AM
PM not working for me email seems ok

International350
12-15-2010, 03:24 PM
either

Hey if you could shoot me a price list on the upgraded parts kit you have. Thanks Jason@ronsgolfcarts.com

bustedknuckles
12-15-2010, 11:03 PM
Greyhorse,

Would you mind emailing me the list also?
jm_right@comcast.net
I'm thinking of doing my FICM myself.

Thanks.

bakantor
12-17-2010, 05:34 AM
Heed greyhorse's advice. If your FICM has parts which are not appropriately rated for the higher voltage DO NOT increase it unless you replace the components.

I have seen many strange things happen. For example...
- Power MOS switches. They will typically take +20% but rarely more, and at +20% they do not live long!!! Depending on the topology they like to fail shorted when conducting high currents. Shorting is bad as it typically means additional destruction.
- Electrolytic capacitors. The dielectric breaks down quickly. One day you're working the next you aren't.
- Ceramic capacitors. Capacitance changes drastically, and they will eventually die. I had one which burst into flames (must have had something on it... really quite crazy to see).

These are all real breakdown conditions that you cannot avoid. Manufacturers push the devices to the edge already so they have the best part possible for the marketplace.

Also, when picking parts try to select devices which provide 20% headroom in the worst possible condition. This should keep you protected for the long term.

Enough with the lecture :) Now go fix your FICM!

groceryman
12-17-2010, 05:23 PM
OK, I'm a little confused ?? I have been following this thread and had not seen any negativity to running the 58 V ficm and ordered one from Swamps around the first of Dec. and had it put on today. It seems to have smoothed out the idle but the verdict is still out on what else it does. You guys have me a little worried about running the 58V ficm at the time, I ask Johnathon @ Swamps if running it had any side effect and he assured me it didn't. So I guess I'll keep watching the discussing and driving my truck and see what happens. ?? I do appreciate the discussion guys, it has been very helpful.

pstrang
12-17-2010, 05:53 PM
You'd think the Swamps upgraded FICM would have the auxiliary components upgraded to handle the higher voltage.

bakantor
12-18-2010, 05:57 AM
Yeah, I wouldn't worry about it. My understanding is Swamps upgrades everything necessary to appropriately rated components.

Sometimes we engineers (hobbiest or professional) over-think things. Remember, the original engineers simply picked one solution out of the 100s or 1000s available. It was unlikely the best or worst, just the one the engineer thought of that day. Nothing even says 48V was the right choice to begin with.

Enjoy your new upgraded FICM, it should give you years of good service!

groceryman
12-18-2010, 03:26 PM
Thanks Guys !, The truck is running good so I'm gonna run it until I have an issue.

Rocketship
12-18-2010, 06:11 PM
ok guys, most of your techno jargon has confused the hell out of me, but I need your help. My buddy has a dead FICM, 4-post. I just started looking a little closer and found what looks to be 2 pieces missing on the logic board. 1 looks to be a 4-post solder joint, mounted directly to the left of the 2nd and 3rd voltage posts going to the DC-DC converter. This would be if you had the FICM oriented as so the processor was in the top right of your view. The other would be a 2 post connection directly above where I just described, right around the 2nd voltage post. Does anyone know what those 2 pieces are and if so part numbers? This kid is broke and I already need to replace an FICM harness for him. On that note too, does anyone know where to possibly obtain FICM harness plugs? I need the 32 pin one that mounts in the forward most slot.

akquad12
12-18-2010, 06:22 PM
Thanks for all the post. Bought a ficm from swamps and starts in the cold and seems to get better mpg's. Awesome.

Rocketship
12-18-2010, 06:23 PM
Here are 2 pictures with the spots highlighted. Looking at Pstrang's writeup, on figure 14 it looks like I need two silver pieces and an orange piece.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/firedog7051/100_7044.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v307/firedog7051/100_7042.jpg

bakantor
12-29-2010, 08:45 AM
Can you post some clearer pictures?

I looked at pstrang's writeup. Here's what is missing in those spots...

1) The larger circle - two capacitors, likely the same as what is in the strip of 4 on the other side of the post holes. 4.7uF to 10uF 100V ceramic X7R would work nicely.

2) The smaller circle. This is likely another capacitor and looks to be polarized. I would guess it's a Tantalum Cap. These are typically lower voltage but high capacitance devices... think of something like 10 to 22 uF 16V or similar.

Odds are the FICM will operate without any of these components.

The value of #1 above is not critical... put in any 100V ceramic from 1uF to 10uF that you can get your hands on.

The value of #2 is likely not critical but I cannot guarantee this. I am making this assumption based on location, size, color, markings, etc. Again, 1uF to 22uF tantalum is likely adequate. Be aware tantalums are polarized devices and the POSITIVE TERMINAL IS MARKED. This is the opposite of electrolytics where the negative terminal is marked.

Disclaimer: I don't have a 4-screw FICM.

Hope this helps.
Brad

RichM87
12-30-2010, 05:44 AM
I'm new to the site but new to Ford diesels. I worked for Ford for 20 years in service. I have replaced my share of FICM's. I've needed to replace mine in my 2006 F-350 for over a year and have been putting it off. It has all 8 injector codes and the FICM performance code. Runs rough and smokes at cold start up and then runs fine when warm. The voltage was 35V then quickly dropped to 28V with KOEO. I decided to do the repair procedure. Only thing I possibly found wrong inside was one resistor. I carefully remove some of the yellow anti vibration substance. Along with the yellow stuff one of the resistors that you are suppose to resolder came completely off the board. Keep in mind I did not pry on the board or and parts on the board to remove the yellow stuff. I figured I found the problem. I do have some expierence making electrical board repairs so this should have been a simple repair. I reinstalled the FICM and let it sit for 6 hours to cool down. When I remeasured the voltage I get 0 volts. When I turn the key on the glow plug light cycles like it should. The injectors will not stop buzzing. The truck starts and runs slightly rough. I shut it off right away. I know something is not right. Maybe I got the resistor to hot. I'm not sure. Any ideas?

chvrk
12-30-2010, 02:28 PM
Sorry, Its too big to upload, whats your email ill send to you

I'm doing some testing on the 4 screw power supply. Please Can you send the schematic of the power supply and I will complete where the problem very fastly? chvrama_krishna@yahoo.com

RichM87
12-31-2010, 04:31 AM
Update, I thought more about the repair I made and could not think why it would have not worked. I had the fluke set to measure up to 99V DC. It measured nothing. I decided to change the range on the meter and remeasured the voltage again. I am now reading 48V. So I do have it fixed. I have no idea why the meter would read around 35V and not 48V on the same scale. I really don't care. The module is fixed. Drove 100 miles today. No check engine light and it runs good. Next test will be to see if it starts below freezing without being plugged in.

lenzhotrod
01-01-2011, 06:33 PM
Try this link they have the FICM harness. Alliant Power sorry I could not do the link but it is there!!!!!

chvrk
01-03-2011, 08:56 AM
Try this link they have the FICM harness. Alliant Power sorry I could not do the link but it is there!!!!!

Please provide the link I will try to find where is the problem ?

chvrk
01-03-2011, 09:28 AM
Jonathan

Can you provide the schematics for FICM powerSupply board?

Please send the schematic to my mail chvrama_krishna@yahoo.com

It will be great helpful if you provide the schematic

chvrk
01-03-2011, 01:59 PM
Dear All,

In this picture two of the part I am not able to identify. Please help me any one of them for Identifying these part numbers.

#1 5 terminal IC
#2 is 3 terminal I think this is a transistor but I don1t know the part number.

Please help me


Thans in advance

Ramakrishna

robs97z28
01-12-2011, 03:38 AM
Dear All,

In this picture two of the part I am not able to identify. Please help me any one of them for Identifying these part numbers.

#1 5 terminal IC
#2 is 3 terminal I think this is a transistor but I don1t know the part number.

Please help me


Thans in advance

Ramakrishna

Thanks for the great pic. It really helped with the placement of the resistor for me.


Ok, I did some volt checking with a scan tool on the FICM. not sure on my findings. koeo = 45.86 cranking = 48 koer = 45 to 47 volts but, I saw it go all the way up to 48 volts when the turbo cycled.

The ex seems to run fine and no starting issue. Should I just leave it alone. i tow a 7000 lb trailer. I don't think doing the 10k resistor mod would be a good idea for me. I was thinking of putting in a 20k resistor. I feel running at 51 volts would be safer choice.

bustedknuckles
01-12-2011, 06:06 AM
I put in the 48k resistor...the table I saw indicated I should be getting 51 1/4 volts. I do notice a significant difference in the way the vehicle runs. It's quieter all the time, not just on start-up. It also runs smoother and doesn't surge on the freeway like it used to...my wife and friends also tell me it sounds better.

robs97z28
01-12-2011, 09:43 PM
Did you retest the ficm to see what the volt are at now? What were the volts at when you started?

bustedknuckles
01-13-2011, 04:34 AM
I didn't test the voltage prior to reworking it.
My motivation for re-working my FICM was to do everything possible to improve my cold start issue (white smoke below 10 degrees F).
I am interested in know whether the resistance vs FICM power graph that I found on this forum is correct, so I will be measuring my FICM voltage as soon as I get a chance.
I will report it here.
I'd like to know the results from other PSD FICM rebuilders.

chvrk
01-21-2011, 07:11 AM
Anyone Can tell me what is this part?

It is a 5 pin IC.
I think it`s a 5V- regulator but not sure about this one.

Thank in advance

Ramk

thankful
04-30-2011, 07:20 PM
Anyone find a good source for parts for these FICM's? I see plenty of places to get 'em fixed, just looking for someone with all the parts willing to sell. There must be someone who has found a good "recipe"!

Thanks:help

73lndcrsr
06-01-2011, 02:17 PM
#2 is 3 terminal I think this is a transistor but I don1t know the part number.


I am interested in this part as well. Anyone know the part?

BTW, this is a fantastic thread, by far the most detail I have seen.

Thanks.

LargeCar
06-06-2011, 11:03 PM
Well I started popping all the codes, P0261 thru P0282 (injector low volt), P0401, P0611, P1378, U0105 U0155, U0100.

So I did the volt test on the drivers side pin (four pin FICM) and I get 48.6 volts when key on engine off... So what is my next set?????

Largecar:help:help:help

IdahoF350
06-07-2011, 01:59 AM
Same test during cranking and engine running. If the voltage is good across the board the problem is most likely harness or injector related.

strokin6L
06-07-2011, 02:42 AM
my cousin's truck had injector codes and rough starts. I tested the FICM using all the test procedures and everytime it measured 47-48 volts. Come to find out half of the FICM shell was bad. So even if the FICM tests good....doesn't mean that it is. He took it to Ford and that is when they found out the half shell was bad. I've heard of others with same issues where it tested good, but was bad.

carlson158
06-07-2011, 04:13 PM
my cousin's truck had injector codes and rough starts. I tested the FICM using all the test procedures and everytime it measured 47-48 volts. Come to find out half of the FICM shell was bad. So even if the FICM tests good....doesn't mean that it is. He took it to Ford and that is when they found out the half shell was bad. I've heard of others with same issues where it tested good, but was bad.

That is correct. The FICM has two boards, the power supply and logic boards. 99% of the FICM problems are with the power supply due to poor solder joints and/or weak semiconductors which fail due to heat.

To the OP: Since you are getting injector low volt codes, without a corresponding drop in voltage at startup, I would suggest you check it when the engine is hot, like after running for at least 30 minutes and check your voltage. I would guess the semiconductors are beginning to fail and it is occurring after being heat soaked. Post back your results.

LargeCar
06-07-2011, 04:41 PM
After more online studing I went out and did a more in depth test.

Key on engine off volts 48.6

Cranking volts 48.?

Running volts 24.?

So I did the re solder that is being posted at several sites and the results are

Key on engine off 48.6 volts

Cranking volts 48.?

Running volts 48.?

So it looks like the re solder was the cure for my problem. It is not throwing code now, so the test will be how long until the re solder patch stays good. What have been the results for those that have done the re solder, how long did the patch last.

I am concerned that I will be four hundred miles from pucker brush and tullie weeds when it decides to take a dump on me and I will be stuck in the middle of the road with two trailer hooked.

Should I just pick up a spare and haul it along, might be an idea.

Largecar

carlson158
06-07-2011, 05:36 PM
Just keep an eye on it and check it from time to time. Maybe at each oil change. If it is truly a cold solder joint (which all signs seem to point to), you likely fixed it and you shouldn't have any future problems unless a semiconductor starts to fail.

robs97z28
12-24-2011, 07:50 PM
Just finished the FICM repair. My voltage was reading 25 voltage while driving a cold engine. Once up to temp, it would bounce between 44 to 49 volts. I had no codes and no driving issues. Now after the repair, the voltage is at 52.5 to 53.5 all the time. This morning it was 29' outside and it seemed to start easier. Thanx everyone for your input to this thread.

tjb9561
01-13-2012, 03:28 AM
i recently decided to upgrade to a 58v ficm bc i wanted to roll back my ficm strategy and everyone recommended that i had to have a 58v ficm before rolling back the strategy to insure i wouldn't have a problem with cold starts. me being a broke college kid could not afford to buy a new one from swamps with the PHP tunes so i found this website http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf and upgraded at it at work. we have a bench tech who works on electronics boards so it was pretty easy for him to do. i sent the ficm to swamps to get it tuned and i received a call tonight saying that as the temp got closer to zero the voltage dropped from 57.8 to 43v. anyone else have this problem? i thought i was saving myself a **** tom of money but maybe i was wrong.. i paid 38 bucks for the parts and labor was free..

pstrang
01-13-2012, 05:13 AM
i recently decided to upgrade to a 58v ficm bc i wanted to roll back my ficm strategy and everyone recommended that i had to have a 58v ficm before rolling back the strategy to insure i wouldn't have a problem with cold starts. me being a broke college kid could not afford to buy a new one from swamps with the PHP tunes so i found this website http://www.bscustoms.net/diesel/FICM.pdf and upgraded at it at work. we have a bench tech who works on electronics boards so it was pretty easy for him to do. i sent the ficm to swamps to get it tuned and i received a call tonight saying that as the temp got closer to zero the voltage dropped from 57.8 to 43v. anyone else have this problem? i thought i was saving myself a **** tom of money but maybe i was wrong.. i paid 38 bucks for the parts and labor was free..

Since I did mine a couple years ago (when I wrote that guide), the voltage doesn't change much with temperature. Estimate 56V at 0F and 59.5 at 100F ambient temps. I'm not sure why yours would be doing that much.

So why are they thermal cycling your FICM?

tjb9561
01-13-2012, 05:08 PM
I don't know why they did. I checked it in my truck before I shipped it off and it was reading 57.8v. They offered to fix it for $585 but I told them I'm going
To take my chances with it. I'll just keep a close eye on my voltage

pstrang
01-13-2012, 06:04 PM
I don't know why they did. I checked it in my truck before I shipped it off and it was reading 57.8v. They offered to fix it for $585 but I told them I'm going
To take my chances with it. I'll just keep a close eye on my voltage

Something fishy there. Why would they go through the expense to thermal cycle a piece of hardware without being asked? It's expensive to do so. Only to have the *opportunity* to fix it? :confused:

nitrogen
01-13-2012, 07:04 PM
Maybe because once it goes through their shop they are responsible for warranty and they want to know if there are preexisting issues

tjb9561
01-23-2012, 05:14 PM
well maybe swamps was right. iv been running my ficm for about a week and been keeping a close eye on the voltage with my torque app. this is what iv found if the trucks been sitting the voltage reads 54.5 before starting and has dropped as low and 40.3 after starting. and it will slowly increase until it reaches 54.5. i know its saying 54.5 but if i check it by hand with a voltage meter it will read 57.8 before starting and after starting like i said low 40's. iv noticed if i hurry up and get going down the road the voltage increase quickly but when i get to the stop sign it will slowly decrease. but after about a good solid 3 to 4 min of driving it will peg out at 54.5 and stay there. I'm assuming my alternator is not pushing the proper amps to the batteries to keep them fully charged. bc i can watch it change with the change in rpms. so to me it seems more of a power supply problem more then a temp problem like swamp said. am i on the right track or do i really have a problem with my ficm?

robs97z28
01-23-2012, 06:05 PM
well maybe swamps was right. iv been running my ficm for about a week and been keeping a close eye on the voltage with my torque app. this is what iv found if the trucks been sitting the voltage reads 54.5 before starting and has dropped as low and 40.3 after starting. and it will slowly increase until it reaches 54.5. i know its saying 54.5 but if i check it by hand with a voltage meter it will read 57.8 before starting and after starting like i said low 40's. iv noticed if i hurry up and get going down the road the voltage increase quickly but when i get to the stop sign it will slowly decrease. but after about a good solid 3 to 4 min of driving it will peg out at 54.5 and stay there. I'm assuming my alternator is not pushing the proper amps to the batteries to keep them fully charged. bc i can watch it change with the change in rpms. so to me it seems more of a power supply problem more then a temp problem like swamp said. am i on the right track or do i really have a problem with my ficm?

That is what happen to my stock ficm. Starting was fine but voltage would drop after start up. I repaired the power supply myself. It hasn't had any problems since the repair.

You should also need to check that the connection are all tight. you need to hear a clicking sound when the connector are pushed in. this tells you that they are locked into place.

tjb9561
02-10-2012, 01:53 AM
ok I'm still having problems with my FICM, it is definatly related to cold weather. the colder it is outside the lower my ficm voltage is upon starting. what components in the ficm could be affected by lower temperatures.. as soon as my truck warms up my voltage stays strong at 57.8v. I'm stressing about destroying my injectors bc it is my daily driver.. its only for a short period of time in the morning that my voltage is low but still bothers me.. i went ahead and ordered some new capacitors hoping that will maybe fix my issue. its like they discharge with the cold weather and it just takes about 3 min of the truck running to recharge them.. but i defiantly could be wrong. any help would be greatly appreciated.

nitrogen
02-10-2012, 01:23 PM
Well I was still waking up when I read this on my phone

pstrang
02-10-2012, 09:06 PM
I've been thinking about your thermal problem for a couple days. I'm not 100% convinced it's a thermal problem. If you have reflowed the main resistors and the feedback one to make sure they make a solid connection, I can't think of why temperatures make a difference.

Sorry, but my only advice is to reflow anything that you can. The resistors, FETs, caps, etc. Make sure they are all well soldered/connected.

Oh, and get your batteries tested under load. Mine as well check your alternator too.

Good luck.

tjb9561
02-13-2012, 06:06 PM
well my problems just got worse.. iv been taking my chances driving my truck with my messed up ficm until i find a way to fix it.. well this morning it was around 43deg down here in south louisiana so i took off about 6:40am to head to school to study a for a couple of hours for my differential equations test i had a 10am and was about 3 blocks from my house and all of a sudden a heard kinda of a soft poof or some kind of backfire and then i had no power and my truck was running extremely rough so i pulled over and immediately killed the truck. thinking it was the turbo boot. i got out popped the hood but everything looked perfect.. tried to start it again and it only ran when i hit the throttle and it ran extremely rough.. let off the throttle it killed and never started again.. had to get pulled back home.. i guess I'm doing some trouble shooting tonight after i get off.. i have a bad feeling its not good.

pstrang
02-13-2012, 07:23 PM
Darn. I wish I had a benchtop FICM tester. At least you know where to start. Key on and check the FICM voltage.

Sorry, and good luck.