6.0 cold start/ rough run [Archive] - TheDieselGarage.com

: 6.0 cold start/ rough run


big_shark
01-13-2010, 07:43 PM
My 04 never had any issues until this winter. It wont start unless I cycle the glow plugs 4 times. Then it runs incredibly rough and wont get out of its own way until it reaches full operating temp. No other start issues after initial startup. Any ideas??? Straight exhaust, AEM intake, Hypertech module

sprman
01-13-2010, 08:26 PM
My 04 never had any issues until this winter. It wont start unless I cycle the glow plugs 4 times. Then it runs incredibly rough and wont get out of its own way until it reaches full operating temp. No other start issues after initial startup. Any ideas??? Straight exhaust, AEM intake, Hypertech module

I had the same issue and fixed it with some REV X additive. Other people have gotten a new flash from Ford and fixed it as well.

big_shark
01-13-2010, 08:33 PM
I heard of the flash from ford, i have never had mine flashed or updated at all. Where is the REV X additive sold?

lilpooh
01-13-2010, 10:34 PM
How cold are we talking? When were your oil and fuel filters changed last? What weight motor oil are you using? How old are the batteries? IMO, start with the basics and go from thier.

GOS
01-13-2010, 10:44 PM
It could be alot of things that have been covered above. Voltage battery problem, oil quality and viscosity problem, Injector issues, Flash program issues. I'm following the Rev X stuff, it sounds very promising and could save alot of people some money.

Trbotime
01-14-2010, 12:36 AM
Could be a bad FICM. That problem seems to be going around lately!

plowin4u
01-14-2010, 03:00 AM
How about bad glow plugs?

big_shark
01-14-2010, 06:38 PM
My batteries are less than a year old, oil and filters were changed right before christmas, Rotella 15-40. I was about to order the glow plugs when I started hearing about the flash update. Local dealer is $120 for the latest update. I will try to get my truck down next week, and see where we go from there. The temp here the last couple weeks has been around 15-20 degrees in the morning.

stmline
01-14-2010, 08:43 PM
I have always run amsoil series 3000 and never had a problem, had to change oil before a family crisis trip no choice and to leave asap so I used a competitors oil. I now have a hard start problems with mine when its cold she doesn't want to start and also runs like chit for a few. I have never plugged my truck in until now and I will be going back to amsoil. Have you made any changes to your oil or anything lately??

6.0 sucks
01-14-2010, 09:34 PM
starts fine runs fine until 60 around 18 and 2000 then it stats missing wants to shut down blue smoke i can pull over and wait 2 min as long as i keep it runing
and it will clean up and if i rev it up a few times a bunch of blue smoke comes out and hit 60 0r 70 all over again in can an injector put in to much fuel or can the oil from the injector leak in to the cylender getting p0226 more than any other coad and by the way 6.0 powerstokes SUCKS

lilpooh
01-14-2010, 11:35 PM
starts fine runs fine until 60 around 18 and 2000 then it stats missing wants to shut down blue smoke i can pull over and wait 2 min as long as i keep it runing
and it will clean up and if i rev it up a few times a bunch of blue smoke comes out and hit 60 0r 70 all over again in can an injector put in to much fuel or can the oil from the injector leak in to the cylender getting p0226 more than any other coad and by the way 6.0 powerstokes SUCKS

Code #p0226- throttle/pedal position sensor/switch C circuit range/performance

plowin4u
01-15-2010, 03:20 AM
Blue smoke, sound like your burning oil, if injector is dumping you would get different color smoke, would try and clear code and road test again, and see if same code comes up, you misfiring?

6.0 sucks
01-15-2010, 07:26 PM
yes comuter scan saya all cylendrs are

lilpooh
01-15-2010, 08:36 PM
yes comuter scan saya all cylendrs are

I hope your not using a cheapo code scanner, if so you really need to get it scanned by a snap-on or AE. Then you will be able to what is really happening with your truck. Also if you want faster responses to your questions you need to spell better and make complete detailed sentances.

6.0 sucks
01-16-2010, 06:03 PM
The scanner we used was at ford. Oil lubes the injector. I was tring to find out if it was at all possible if oil from injector could leak in to the cylinder and throw blue smoke.

big_shark
02-25-2010, 08:23 AM
Well just an update, reflashed a few weeks back, it didnt seem to help. Ordered HSS, have about a 1000 miles on it, no noticable difference yet, and to top it all off, driving home tonight, my trans temp gauge dropped to nothing from out of nowhere and the tow haul started flashing on the dash. Fluid and level look good on the tranny, no noticable difference in shift, Is it time to trade this thing in????

bismic
02-25-2010, 09:28 AM
Well just an update, reflashed a few weeks back, it didnt seem to help. Ordered HSS, have about a 1000 miles on it, no noticable difference yet, and to top it all off, driving home tonight, my trans temp gauge dropped to nothing from out of nowhere and the tow haul started flashing on the dash. Fluid and level look good on the tranny, no noticable difference in shift, Is it time to trade this thing in????

It is not uncommon for the temperature probe to fail. If that is what it is (and very likely it is), the fix is ease.

Where is your ICP sensor - below the turbo or on the passenger side valve cover?

also - did you check the FICM voltage?

FFRyan
02-25-2010, 04:05 PM
with these truck being electronicly controled all it takes is one sensor to fail or act up and the computer freaks out. You can have a dirty ebp sensor that will cause you starting, boost and general engine performance issues, and may also cause it to throw multiple codes. You have to start small when diagnosing these things, and btw 6.0s dont suck if you take care of em and know what your doing!!!!!!!!!!!

tehone
02-25-2010, 05:57 PM
I had the same issue with the cold start in 2008 and the computer was flashed and worked fine until this winter 2009 and then the fuel management module was replaced. Ford said that the update flash actually ruined the fuel mangement for some reason or another. However, the same cold start and no power remained and then they replaced 4-injectors. Thankfully this was all under warrenty. Truch starts but still hesitates to get out of its own way for a few minutes.

350FORD
02-25-2010, 06:10 PM
A little more info would help, how many miles, how many miles with the hypertech, how long have you owned the truck, any previous problems. Do you have gauges ? If your hypertech is in your truck, and is acting like a dog, I would think it would be billowing black smoke instead of blue. When my truck is a little on the cold side, with my SCT, and my turbo that needs CLEANED, I can leave the road black for a mile or two in OD until it warms up a little. At that same time Ive notice my boost gauge at 0 until it warms up. After owning my truck for 7 years and 160,000 mi. Ive never had the service department guessing, or not being able to tell me whats wrong with my truck ( after warrenty went out for me to fix ) when I took it in for them to hook it up to the scanner to find out whats wrong with it. The last couple of times it was worth the hundred bucks to find out. After almost 5 years of reading on here it could be the service department your dealing with.

big_shark
02-25-2010, 07:57 PM
I started the truck and drove it this morning, the trans temp was reading fine with not flash of tow haul. after about 8 miles it did the same thing. I am going to chech the ficm voltage this weekend. Where is the trans temp sensor located? I am also going to pull my egr again and see if that is the culprit for the running issues. If so, I have my egr delete, just havent had time to install it. Thanks for all the help guys, I am a die hard for guy and even the thought of getting rid of the truck would mean getting another FORD. I also pulled the hypertech out of it this last weekend to see if it was in the module causing the problem, maybe thats why it is finally going to give me a code. I will check back after work, again thanks for all the help.

350FORD
02-25-2010, 08:06 PM
The sesor is under the trans pan towards the bell housing.

fordf350fireman
02-28-2010, 05:26 AM
I had the same isue and it turned out i had two frozen batteries and two bad injectors. That being said if its real cold i recomend not only pluging in the blockheater but also instaling an aftermarket oil heater. I have one made by katz? i also chenged over to a fully sinthetic oil with the viscocity recomended by ford for cold weather operation. fuel addative is also a must! good luck!!

big_shark
03-01-2010, 12:19 AM
The trans error is the sensor, reading -68 degrees. Also the scannor showed a code for distribution imbalance on cylinders 2 and 5. The injector ping came back good. Does that mean those two inectors are clogged or dirty? the egr was filthy, and sticking on full open. The truck still took three tries to get it started, but within a minute I was able to drive off with just the original sluggish behavior of a diesel. I didn't get a chance to check the ficm with a meter, but the scanner my friend used ran the tests on it an all checked out well. We are also going to run the glow plug test, ran outta time, so everything else will be done next weekend.

big_shark
04-11-2010, 11:38 PM
Finally got the ficm voltages checked, I have 48 volts after initial buzz, during cranking, and during running. The only lower voltage is during initial key on buzz which is at 44 volts. As soon as the initial buzz is over, it jumps right back to 48vdc. I would think that the voltage is good, but I don't know how much that first couple of seconds effects it. It is staring slot easier since the weather warmed up, starts on the first shot now, but still runs choppy initially. I am tempted to change the glow plugs just to get it out of the way. Any other ideas? Does that initial key on effect it ? Thanks everyone, by the way, the hss did seem to help and clean it up a bit.

crash_7086
04-12-2010, 05:01 AM
Could be a bad FICM. That problem seems to be going around lately!

FICM?

lilpooh
04-12-2010, 04:36 PM
FICM?

Fuel Injection Control Module

dbennett48
04-12-2010, 11:36 PM
I changed my FICM at 112,000 miles. Hard start, but ran good. Finally died and I had the truck towed in to Ford.

Dave

big_shark
04-14-2010, 07:43 AM
Dave, honestly that is what I was hoping for, as bad as it sounds, was for the ficm voltages to be low so I could finally have it taken care of. The voltages seemed to come back okay. Now I am right back to being stumped and pulling out what remains of the hair on my already balding head. The bad thing is this is my daily driver, so downtime on it would really be hell on the day to day.

nylyon
04-14-2010, 05:23 PM
How did you test the FICM was it with a scan tool or multimeter? I have read that some scan tools don't measure the FICM voltage below a certain value (forget what that is though). I had a similar problem, and I have it mostly resolved now. I have no experience with HSS, but I have read mixed results with it. What I have used is Rev-X, and 5-40 synthetic oil and 2 Cycle oil in the fuel tank. Before going to that combination, I would need to cycle the key 3 or 4 times, then when it did start, it would take 10 minutes before I had any power and sound miserable. After the Rev-X, I turn the key, when the WTS light goes off I fire it up and drive off with lots of power. I'm not knocking HSS since I haven't used it, but Rev-X really worked for me, something to think about before replacing injectors.

big_shark
04-14-2010, 06:09 PM
I checked the ficm with a fluke multimeter, and honestly was shocked that it was reading good. the truck is starting on the first shot now, but is still running a little rough at first. The HSS didnt work the miracle that I was hoping for, but I had also heard of the rev x. It really doesnt feel like an injector, because once it is up and running there is no miss, and no lack of power. I will be due for another oil change in about a month, and was going to go the the new Rotella synthetic. I am at 115,000 miles now, and would like to be able to get another zero on the end of that.

nylyon
04-14-2010, 06:10 PM
Mine ran perfectly when warm as well, just cold was crappy.

big_shark
04-14-2010, 06:14 PM
what exactly is the purpose in the 2 cycle oil in the fuel? I usually will run lucas or diesel klean to the fuel?

nylyon
04-14-2010, 06:36 PM
To lubricate the fuel side of the injector. Diesel Kleen is a cleaner and doesn't score too high on the lubricity chart. The 2-Cycle oil lubricates nicely, is inexpensive and really quiets things down. I run about 1 oz / gallon of Walmart 2-cycle oil and diesel kleen every other or 3rd tank.