3 Wire Fuel temp Mod, 3406E [Archive] - TheDieselGarage.com

: 3 Wire Fuel temp Mod, 3406E


KET19
03-08-2010, 12:07 AM
I know,, i have read many times that the fuel temp mod has been written about many times,, however,, i could not find a drop dead way that workrd or did not have a problem.. So.

Here is what i did, using a Prolink 9000 in the data mode i read the fuel temp as it was ,, un modified,, 42deg..

Long story short, here is what i did.
Run to Radio Shack and buy a 5 pac of 150 ohm resistors... Go to the truck and Skin back the oarnge and white wire,,, leave the black wire alone,,, take 3 of the newly purchased 150 ohm resistors out of the packet and hook them together in a Series,, (3 in a row) solder them,, now take one end and wrap it into the oarnge wire,, and the other end on the white wire.. Solder,, wrap it up = Done..

Here is what you have accomplished,, the ECM will see a fuel temp of 160deg with no trouble codes,, this is reading the actual fuel temp readings on the Pro Link !! The changes ar every consistant and i have experimented with the 100 ohm and 150 ohm resistors. Note* if you just unplug the sensor the ECM will see 86deg.

If this has been done before ,, my apologys for wasting your time . The only post i could find was one where *dont quote me on this* cut the one wire and hook the other 2 together and then a resistor,, did not work at all !!
This i figured up.

Best to ya all !!

Les2
03-08-2010, 12:56 AM
I was wondering how to do that with the 3 wire....Thanks!:thumbsup

Dumb question, thought you wanted the ECM to read the temps as cooler so it would dump more fuel to heat it up?

KET19
03-08-2010, 01:13 AM
I understand what you are saying, but,, your thinking Gas motor. When I started messing with this mod I made the fuel temp read 0, zero. So I polish dyno"d it and got a 21 lb boost read out cause that confused me too, but I read on this site that,, Cats will put more fuel to a Hot, fuel condition, and I know for a fact thata certain % of HP is lost for every deg above 122 ??? I have slept since then and do not know the exact no"s.. When I got the fuel temp to the 160 mark it was 26 on the boost rite quick,,, a marked improvement.

ynot
03-08-2010, 03:16 AM
More fuel output hot, as the fuel is thinner requiring more delivery (solenoid duration). Max sendor temp is 162*. After fuel reaches that actual temp there is no gain from the shunt stick (theoretically)... :)

Lmackattack
03-08-2010, 07:06 PM
QUESTION...CAN We use a single 450 ohm resistor or do we need the three 150 ohms?

KET19
03-08-2010, 07:16 PM
Well sir,, good luck finding a 450. But yes you could. The fuel shiming is something I have yet to do and will have to search out the procedure on here somewhere.

Lmackattack
03-09-2010, 12:25 AM
sounds like you went looking for one.... I will see if any of my computer geek friends have a lead on them.... thanks for all this good info!

Jfaulkner
03-09-2010, 02:45 PM
sounds like you went looking for one.... I will see if any of my computer geek friends have a lead on them.... thanks for all this good info!

Found one (http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/WW49/Power+Wirewound+Resistor+1W+450+ohm+1&%2337%3B.html).:D

Johnp3
03-10-2010, 12:46 AM
At 42 degrees the ECM sees 160 degree fuel tempature, That gives you an increase in power for how long, and until what outside tempature. On a unit that has driven for say 5 hours how much extra HP do you get. I would think that the ECM would read that fuel tempature as out of range and go to the default setting. I have been wrong before but this seems like a fantasy fix.

Jfaulkner
03-10-2010, 01:05 AM
At 42 degrees the ECM sees 160 degree fuel tempature, That gives you an increase in power for how long, and until what outside tempature. On a unit that has driven for say 5 hours how much extra HP do you get. I would think that the ECM would read that fuel tempature as out of range and go to the default setting. I have been wrong before but this seems like a fantasy fix.

You see an increase in power until the fuel reaches 160* or above. As far as how long you see the increase that all depends on how big your fuel tanks are and how hot the outside temp is. It does work, that's why the fuel temp sensor is there in the first place, to compensate for the loss of power due to hot fuel. This mod just makes the ECM thing the fuel is always hot. Other resistor values have been tried but I think anything over 170* or so causes a check engine light and no added fuel flow.

I believe someone said this mod adds somewhere around 40-50hp and like 80 ftlb tq, dyno tested.

Johnp3
03-10-2010, 02:51 AM
At 194F the ECM will log a 174-00 flash code 65 High fuel tempature warning. And in the manual it says " the operator may feel a slight reduction in power due to loss of fuel tempature power correction" So at 76 F fuel tempature, the ECM cuts back on fuel delivery. Sounds to me like it works great

KET19
03-11-2010, 11:48 AM
Now that my eyes have healed enough to see the computer screen,,, before posting this mod i was messin around with 100 ohm resistors,, and i had a couple of days where i had all day on the truck,, so the fuel temp in the tanks was hot,, had the resistors in place.
When i first put them in there i was reading 122deg cold fuel temp... At the end of the day,,, if i remember rite the temp was 122 deg witch did not seem rite,, witch i is why i did not post it,, besides the fact that i wanted hotter fuel than that,, so i never posted that experiment.
It has been raining here and i have not worked the truck since the 3 wire post... So it is onward with season maint,, yesterday was relocating the Davco 382 fuel pro filter assy and optimising fuel line routings,, today,, chase down some money that a companys owes me and then,, fabricate a mount for the B&M fan cooled cooler for the return fuel line,, and see about a different temp sensor that will turn on at 100 or so deg ?? I dont really want to have it on all the time,, do i. ??

Good day to all !!

379Longhood
03-11-2010, 02:43 PM
The older ,pre '93 pick up diesels diesels had hi idle thermo switches, but then you would have to run that thru a headlight relay , the temp on them should be around 100 deg . :popcorn

Johnp3
03-11-2010, 07:30 PM
KET19, The fuel system, with the Davco 382 and a cooler is a great combination. For the fan you can get a thematic switch that comes on when the fuel intake tempature comes up to say 115 degrees. The hardest part about mounting the cooler is finding the right place, cool air and no chance of damage from road debris, and it has to be re plumbed to the spit-er on the transmission. Just a thought!

Mr. Haney
03-11-2010, 11:08 PM
for the best power gain the ECM reading fuel temperature should be above 159*F conatantly, but not high enough to cause a high fuel temperature fault code. I build mine differently than the above discription, but if it works this way also then it's all good. The temperature of the fuel in the tank needs to be as cool as possible at all times for the best results.

ridenred27
03-12-2010, 05:34 AM
for the best power gain the ECM reading fuel temperature should be above 159*F conatantly, but not high enough to cause a high fuel temperature fault code. I build mine differently than the above discription, but if it works this way also then it's all good. The temperature of the fuel in the tank needs to be as cool as possible at all times for the best results.

how are you building yours?

im wondering how bridging the resistors across the white wire and the orange will work properly, wont the actual temp sensor interfer with the reading back to the ecm?

stupid question we are refeing to the sensor in the block mounted filter housing right?

Mr. Haney
03-12-2010, 12:23 PM
how are you building yours?

im wondering how bridging the resistors across the white wire and the orange will work properly, wont the actual temp sensor interfer with the reading back to the ecm?

stupid question we are refeing to the sensor in the block mounted filter housing right?electricity follows the path of least resistance......so the voltage flowing through the resistors is higher than what the sensor would allow back to the ECM, so this is what the ECM reads.

As far as how I build mine, thats a secret I'll keep to myself. I build them to sell and spent time figuring out how to build them a number of years ago. In fact I think I was the first person to figure out how to build the 3 wire 40 pin fuel wire. It was a couple of years before anybody else offered one for sale after I did. I know of a shop that tried to take one off a customers truck to copy it, because they thought it couldn't be done.

KET19
03-12-2010, 01:59 PM
KET19, The fuel system, with the Davco 382 and a cooler is a great combination. For the fan you can get a thematic switch that comes on when the fuel intake tempature comes up to say 115 degrees. The hardest part about mounting the cooler is finding the right place, cool air and no chance of damage from road debris, and it has to be re plumbed to the spit-er on the transmission. Just a thought!

On second thought,,, i remember monitoring fuel temps at several points last year. On hot days fuel temp was well over 100deg before you even got to the job site, on cool days, lets say 50deg, fuel temps would cross the 100deg mark after 2 hrs from the time you started the truck in the morning.

So, i will neatly mount a Bosch relay and just put it on a switch.
I have the perfect mounting location rite in front of the Air to Air cooler.

Johnp3
03-13-2010, 06:12 PM
Mounting it there will definitely give you cool fuel even without the fan.

KTS
08-23-2010, 08:24 PM
how can i get a hold of one of your chip's Mr. Hanely

pichu2
08-23-2010, 09:09 PM
.

As far as how I build mine, thats a secret I'll keep to myself. I build them to sell and spent time figuring out how to build them a number of years ago. In fact I think I was the first person to figure out how to build the 3 wire 40 pin fuel wire. It was a couple of years before anybody else offered one for sale after I did. I know of a shop that tried to take one off a customers truck to copy it, because they thought it couldn't be done.

;) hey mrs haney ,are you the same person catfreak?, i saw this tip a long time ago in diesel talk ,
catfreak

Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 2007


Friday December 28, 2007 23:34



ok im probly going to make some people mad but everyone knows most "Cat Techs" only know what cat teaches them everyone has heard the same crap if you turn that up youll burn it up but that burnin up is the driver ive had 700 horse 3406b models that my buddies at cat said wont last but the last one went 1.3 mil got 6mile to the gal.But like i said my cat buddies these are my friends at local cat dealer. no disrespect. As far as 3406e and c15 you can have injector trim codes changed if you have a buddy at adealership pete,kw etc have them print your current codes incase you want to go back,then delete each code and put 5232 in its place. This is a default code for industrial app.Now your cat guy and probly some on here will say "it wont work" but it will mine has been that way for 500k miles and it pulls great have many friends that have done this to they are happy.THIS CODE IS NO GOOD FOR ACCERT ENGINE. You can also put a 5k resistor in green wire on boost sensor this will give you better response but does make some smoke when changing gears. I had my cb guy hook mine through a switch i put in cab so i can turn it off when i go to Ca. Some of you have seen this for sale as "power harness" for like $50 to $100 dollars you can do it for about 6 bucks.There is also a trick for fuel temp sensor havent messed with 2 wire like on C15 but if you have 3 wire cut orange wire leave it like that. Strip bare spot on black wire cut white wire solder end of white wire toward sensor to black wire then solder 150ohm resistor to other white wire and solder other end of resistor to the black and white you solderd first.This is good for about 40 horse and about .5 mpg on mine anyway. I hope instructions were clear enough if not post and we'll do something else you can call me and i'll talk you through it or something. ;)Good luck

Mr. Haney
08-23-2010, 11:38 PM
Dag gone.........if I didn't know better I'd swear I wrote your exacts words pichu2. If you figured it out before early 06........you may have beat me. You may have been the first on the west coast, but I know I was the first on the east coast and I spent a considerable amount of time figuring it out and went to great lengths protecting what I was doing. I also had a customer that took his truck into a Hot Rod CAT shop in PA that wanted to take it off the truck to see how it was built, fortunitly for me the customer stopped them. But it made them realize it could be done after they'd given up trying to build one for awhile

I'm not catfreak and don't think I've heard or seen that name before. I don't build mine this way either. Also a 5K on the boost wire is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much in my opinion, it just dumps soot in the oil at this level.....I think a 1.3K is too much, but I'm all about keeping the motor safe for many miles

.

As far as how I build mine, thats a secret I'll keep to myself. I build them to sell and spent time figuring out how to build them a number of years ago. In fact I think I was the first person to figure out how to build the 3 wire 40 pin fuel wire. It was a couple of years before anybody else offered one for sale after I did. I know of a shop that tried to take one off a customers truck to copy it, because they thought it couldn't be done.

;) hey mrs haney ,are you the same person catfreak?, i saw this tip a long time ago in diesel talk ,
catfreak

Posts: 15
Joined: Dec 2007


Friday December 28, 2007 23:34



ok im probly going to make some people mad but everyone knows most "Cat Techs" only know what cat teaches them everyone has heard the same crap if you turn that up youll burn it up but that burnin up is the driver ive had 700 horse 3406b models that my buddies at cat said wont last but the last one went 1.3 mil got 6mile to the gal.But like i said my cat buddies these are my friends at local cat dealer. no disrespect. As far as 3406e and c15 you can have injector trim codes changed if you have a buddy at adealership pete,kw etc have them print your current codes incase you want to go back,then delete each code and put 5232 in its place. This is a default code for industrial app.Now your cat guy and probly some on here will say "it wont work" but it will mine has been that way for 500k miles and it pulls great have many friends that have done this to they are happy.THIS CODE IS NO GOOD FOR ACCERT ENGINE. You can also put a 5k resistor in green wire on boost sensor this will give you better response but does make some smoke when changing gears. I had my cb guy hook mine through a switch i put in cab so i can turn it off when i go to Ca. Some of you have seen this for sale as "power harness" for like $50 to $100 dollars you can do it for about 6 bucks.There is also a trick for fuel temp sensor havent messed with 2 wire like on C15 but if you have 3 wire cut orange wire leave it like that. Strip bare spot on black wire cut white wire solder end of white wire toward sensor to black wire then solder 150ohm resistor to other white wire and solder other end of resistor to the black and white you solderd first.This is good for about 40 horse and about .5 mpg on mine anyway. I hope instructions were clear enough if not post and we'll do something else you can call me and i'll talk you through it or something. ;)Good luck

pichu2
08-24-2010, 12:53 AM
:bangno,be cool ,no no no dont be mad, i remember when this tip came out ,all the kids started talking about 5232 and 6999 but i had no idea on what they were talking about, my obsesion was the B,s and i broke 4 engines + 2 customers engines .the thing that help me, was injectors that sold it to me used it was bruce he was in a old and small advertisement :bang,but its my second time that i got confused with other people, probably the thing i like are Truck Show's and met 1000's of people i have photos with people you cant imagine,celebrity and in this industry but i apologize i will never cross my self in one of your post :shrugs

Mr. Haney
08-24-2010, 02:28 AM
pichu2

Sir you misunderstood my comment and reply to your post.

I never was mad...........I never was upset. I actually thought it was funny

I also wanted to know roughly when you figured out how to build the 3 wire fuel temp wire. We could call it a tie on who was the first..........we could call it......... I did first on the east side and you were first on the west side. I really was curious about when, because of not many other people thought outside of Caterpillars box until a few years ago.

Sorry for the confusion : )

:bangno,be cool ,no no no dont be mad, i remember when this tip came out ,all the kids started talking about 5232 and 6999 but i had no idea on what they were talking about, my obsesion was the B,s and i broke 4 engines + 2 customers engines .the thing that help me, was injectors that sold it to me used it was bruce he was in a old and small advertisement :bang,but its my second time that i got confused with other people, probably the thing i like are Truck Show's and met 1000's of people i have photos with people you cant imagine,celebrity and in this industry but i apologize i will never cross my self in one of your post :shrugs

j-m
08-25-2010, 01:19 AM
OK, just a question for the gurus. On my Nexiq there is a fuel chart for fuel denisty or viscosity that can be incrersed or decreased. would this do the same thing as fooling the ecm with the temp senor?

nsane4
08-31-2010, 02:17 AM
i have boost harness on my cat 3406e 2ws motor and my soot level has went up is maybe the reason for it?

SledMan
08-31-2010, 03:48 AM
i have boost harness on my cat 3406e 2ws motor and my soot level has went up is maybe the reason for it?

:roflol::roflol::bang:bangLOLLOL

More smoke equals more soot.

Lmackattack
08-31-2010, 03:45 PM
yep smoke is unburt fuel. it cakes to the pipes and thats where your soot is coming from...

legend10
02-14-2011, 03:39 AM
how do you make the boost wire mod? I have the fuel temp already

jwieler415
03-03-2011, 04:22 PM
I would like to know as well.. or if someone could tell me where to buy the fuel and boost mods that would do as well. I understand some people have worked hard on this and spent a lot of time figuring out so I have no problem paying.

AaronF
03-08-2011, 10:02 AM
Would the fuel temp wire mod even be feasible with a wastgated turbo?

josh G
03-09-2011, 03:44 AM
Yes no problem

turbo8781
03-27-2011, 12:15 AM
I know,, i have read many times that the fuel temp mod has been written about many times,, however,, i could not find a drop dead way that workrd or did not have a problem.. So.

Here is what i did, using a Prolink 9000 in the data mode i read the fuel temp as it was ,, un modified,, 42deg..

Long story short, here is what i did.
Run to Radio Shack and buy a 5 pac of 150 ohm resistors... Go to the truck and Skin back the oarnge and white wire,,, leave the black wire alone,,, take 3 of the newly purchased 150 ohm resistors out of the packet and hook them together in a Series,, (3 in a row) solder them,, now take one end and wrap it into the oarnge wire,, and the other end on the white wire.. Solder,, wrap it up = Done..

Here is what you have accomplished,, the ECM will see a fuel temp of 160deg with no trouble codes,, this is reading the actual fuel temp readings on the Pro Link !! The changes ar every consistant and i have experimented with the 100 ohm and 150 ohm resistors. Note* if you just unplug the sensor the ECM will see 86deg.

If this has been done before ,, my apologys for wasting your time . The only post i could find was one where *dont quote me on this* cut the one wire and hook the other 2 together and then a resistor,, did not work at all !!
This i figured up.

Best to ya all !!

I have a bunch of resistors but i don't know what the resistance is for the different ones i have. You don't remember what the color code for the 150 ohm is do you ?. Cant wait to see how much this helps the power

dbennett48
03-27-2011, 01:55 AM
Brown, Green and Black. The color codes are here: http://www.leonaudio.com.au/res_code.htm

Dave :)

turbo8781
03-29-2011, 01:00 AM
Brown, Green and Black. The color codes are here: http://www.leonaudio.com.au/res_code.htm

Dave :)

Thanks, I did the mod and took it for a test drive empty and couldn't tell any difference but i'm sure it would be more noticeable with a load on it. If it doesn't work that way then I will try Pichu and Mr. Haney's way. I will deffinatly be sending the ECM to pdi for a good tune this season