N14 cummins no start. [Archive] - TheDieselGarage.com

: N14 cummins no start.


budtoh3zo
06-02-2010, 02:13 AM
I got a 1992 freightshaker that we are trying to get running, Its been down for a few years and well we got some ideas for it if we can get going again. The guys that last ran it thougt the ECM was shot. Im wondering how you can test it? thanks.

SledMan
06-02-2010, 02:17 AM
I got a 1992 freightshaker that we are trying to get running, Its been down for a few years and well we got some ideas for it if we can get going again. The guys that last ran it thougt the ECM was shot. Im wondering how you can test it? thanks.

Try timing sensor first. Alot cheaper than the ECM.

budtoh3zo
06-02-2010, 02:22 AM
anyway to test the timing sensor? also were is it located at?

SledMan
06-02-2010, 02:45 AM
anyway to test the timing sensor? also were is it located at?

It's screwed into the timing cover, to the right of the oil pump. Two wires with a plug. You can use an ohm meter and touch the two wires with it unplugged. Spin the motor over and you should see resistance change. It's a crude way to check, but it does work.

QUALITYTRUCK
06-02-2010, 12:33 PM
when you first turn the key on the yellow "check engine"light should come on for a few seconds then turn off.this will at least let you know if the ecm is gettimg power and ground.

John_G
06-02-2010, 02:24 PM
The most common things are power and ground connections in the battery as suggested and a bad fuel solenoid (can turn screw to get running).

The Ftls also used Kysor shut down computers installed in the center fuse panel and they are notorious for failing preventing the engine from running or keeping the fan on all the time.

PGM
06-02-2010, 04:56 PM
when you first turn the key on the yellow "check engine"light should come on for a few seconds then turn off.this will at least let you know if the ecm is gettimg power and ground.

Yup, Spot on, see if the ECM is even powering up before you waste your time checking sensors.

Johnp3
06-02-2010, 07:26 PM
There is a three wire plug, in front of the left side motor mount the outside wires are power and the inside is ground. I use a headlight bulb to test the circuit. First thing I would do is clean the Battery connections, and grounds to the motor, from the starter. Put the battery's on charge, it is best to do them singly, with a regulated charger. Then if the check engine light goes out in the 5 seconds as stated take a test light and see if you have power to the fuel solinoid. Tug on the wire they they will break and stay attached by the shrink tube, and have voltage to the solinoid but not enough amperage to keep the solinoid open. If all that is OK you need a fuel pressure gauge on the Top compucheck fitting above the fuel solinoid, if the engine cranks at above,195 RPM, and you get above 75 lbs going quickly to 140ish PSI it should start. Just a thought.

budtoh3zo
06-03-2010, 03:43 AM
Well ECM problem for sure then, the check engine light does not come on at all. Have to start tearing into the wiring. Thanks for the help guys. It will be awhile till i get back to it.

Johnp3
06-03-2010, 04:23 AM
Many of them also have a ground fuse, going from the top rear mount bolt to the block. if that is blown and the ECM mounting is not clean. you could have that problem also. Just a thought!

ynot
06-03-2010, 04:38 AM
It's screwed into the timing cover, to the right of the oil pump. Two wires with a plug. You can use an ohm meter and touch the two wires with it unplugged. Spin the motor over and you should see resistance change. It's a crude way to check, but it does work.

3 wires... ;) (11/16" fuel line socket).

Johnp3
06-03-2010, 06:13 AM
4 wires A&D B&C 1000,to 2000 OHMs in each coil Check to ground on each wire, 11/16 line socket as mentioned, check for physical damage. Check each wire to shorts also A to B&C and B to A&D should be infinity.

ynot
06-03-2010, 03:35 PM
4 wires A&D B&C 1000,to 2000 OHMs in each coil Check to ground on each wire, 11/16 line socket as mentioned, check for physical damage. Check each wire to shorts also A to B&C and B to A&D should be infinity.

Just looked at mine. Yep, 4. Good catch, my bad... :wtf

Johnp3
06-04-2010, 03:49 AM
That is the trouble with trying to think of how to fix a problem on different engines without touching it you get crossed up thinking of an "E" Cat that has three wires and you are thinking of, and trying to tell someone else what to check, and how to do it. I still would be looking at the power to the ECM, if he does not get the check engine light off in 5 seconds. The ECM would not check the timing sensor until it started cranking and does not get a proper signal, for speed and location. Just a thought!