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common 7.3L problems after 100K ?? .....

75K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  Fast_Ashley 
#1 ·
I'm hoping you guys can give me some pointers as to what typical problems are with a 7.3L DI.

It's in my work van which has a Quigley 4x4 conversion and recently turned 100K. I don't mind doing preventative maintenance even if the part isn't bad yet.

I've purchased glow plugs w/controller, CPS & belt to be replaced so far.

Besides the obvious like fluid changing, while I'm in motor.... are there another other parts that could use to be replaced or things done? EGR valve, wastegate, valve adjustment, injectors for example. I've looked and looked for a break down of this motor online but, have yet to find it. There also isn't a lot of talk about van here.

I bought it with 60K on the motor so, I'm not sure that anything other than oil changes have been done.
 
#2 ·
I would deffinetly look at the water pump, those seem to go out right after a 100k, grab the fan and see if there is any play in it.
 
#3 ·
Thats a strech... If you have been adding the additive into the coolant then the water pump will be fine. Might add a Coolant filter for good measure. Really other then fluid changes there is no adjustments to the rig.
 
#4 ·
220k water pump.I did have the tranny give up at 74k and lost multipule alternators all the way up till my current mileage.Hubs gave up along with the wheel bearings around 240k.Front end steering parts have been rebuilt once tie rod ends steering box blah blah.Steering box is in need again at 270k.Those OEM's seem to last about 100k miles then start to wear out.I have swapped inj's 3 times non due to performace.1 actual turbo at around 190k it wasn't a stocker it was the BB

Thats about it.Going off memory drive about 50k+- a year.

Mike
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the replies guys.

Like kainers my tranny went out at 76K so it's ok now with a nice new 3yr. warranty :deal:

I don't think a van pulls as much current as a truck with all it's instruments does so, I guess I'm ok with the alternator... for now.

The fan feels as tight as it can be so, hopefully I'm ok with the W/P

It's nice to know not a whole lot needs to be done to keep it goin'. On a quick inspection I did see I'm going to need a new rear seal on the transfer. That's probably something to watch out for to along with the U-joints at it's age.

Thanks again !!
 
#7 ·
I haven't touched my u-joints they are still factory.The rear end was replaced at 150k due to accident damage.Haven't touched the transfer case front end front axles or U-joints there either.
 
#9 ·
keep an eye on the water pump definitly. there are 4 guys arround me that have 98-00 strokers that all had the water pump go out just after the 100 k mark. mine went out about 98k. keep an ehe on the fan for an idea on the w/p situation. if/when it dose go the fan nut is a pain in the a** to git off. use a air chissel to loosen it. (thats the best way ive *** up with after helping replace 4 of them.)
 
#10 ·
a better way to remove fan.

StrokinSnyd said:
keep an eye on the water pump definitly. there are 4 guys arround me that have 98-00 strokers that all had the water pump go out just after the 100 k mark. mine went out about 98k. keep an ehe on the fan for an idea on the w/p situation. if/when it dose go the fan nut is a pain in the a** to git off. use a air chissel to loosen it. (thats the best way ive *** up with after helping replace 4 of them.)
Use the vise grips with the chain on them... put it around the pulley and use a BFW (big wrench), put the housing in a vise, and there you have it. If you get the vise grips good and tight, it will not slide and scratch up the pulley. When I finally did that to take it off, it only took seconds. I supposed you could do that with thepump still on the motor. I already had mine pulled when I got around to that method.
 
#11 ·
triton said:
Thanks for the replies guys.

On a quick inspection I did see I'm going to need a new rear seal on the transfer. That's probably something to watch out for to along with the U-joints at it's age.

Thanks again !!
One the rear main seal you think you need to replace, these trucks very rarely leak at the main seal. Climb up and look at the back of the turbo (not very easy to see) and look to see if there is oil around the pedestal at all. You may have a bad gasket on the turbo pedestal, either on top or on bottom, causing oil to run down the valley of the engine and drip underneath, near the rear seal, giving the impression the rear main is leaking, when it's not.
 
#12 ·
scarr133 hes talking about the trasnfercase not the motor.. guys yall know u can go down to advanced and BORROW the freaking RIGHT tools for the job correct? if you do end up doing a WP go to advanced pay the $40 use the tool and get ur 40 bucks back its that simple. or however much they take these days but you get it all back when you return the tool
 
#15 ·
Just replaced the water pump two days ago after a sudden and large failure, luckily only a few miles from the house. When I drained the radiator (pulled the bottom radiator hose) I only got 1.5 gallons out.

116K miles.

I did the top and bottom radiator hoses, serpentine belt, and thermostat all at the same time as the water pump. Other repairs have been both front hubs (bearings) and a CPS. Changed fluids in all the boxes. I'm expecting a clutch replacement in the next 30K miles or so.
 
#16 ·
Thanks again for the excellent responses.

The W/P seems to stand out more than anything.

I'm gonna take a look but being a van, it doesn't have near the room to work on the motor as a truck might. If it's that bad.... I'm just going to wait till it goes. Otherwise, I'd definitely change it. It would probably be a 10hr job from the room I'm remember seeing in there. Everything thing has to be moved out of the way.

My van's symptoms are getting worse and worse. Just about every time I go to start it now, it will start and die immediately. Next time it will spit and sputter then die. After about 10 cranks of doing this, it will crank and run like there was never a problem.

I haven't diagnosed it yet but, from what I've read my guess is the CPS? Autozone's CEL reader is 20 miles away!


One question..... I looked up W/P's and there's a variety to choose from. I saw $90 up to $200. ACDelco being the higher price and a Bosch right under that.

Is there a preferred W/P you guys use ?
 
#18 ·
Now you're talking expensive stuff ! Man I hope that's not the problem. In reading about them, it's seems they either work or they don't. I'm have a intermittent problem.

I guess it's possible some injectors and or the fuel pump could be going too. I can see the pump possibly working intermittently. Since I haven't looked into that, if like my Dodge, the pump is in the tank... I'll have to install a walbro externally.

It seems what I need to do is get a Chilton book or who ever makes one on my van. I don't know the International like I do my Cummins. I was hoping to find everything online because of the van's age. This site has a lot of good info and you guys have help a lot but..... I need pictures and diagrams!! :popcorn:
 
#20 ·
triton said:
Now you're talking expensive stuff ! Man I hope that's not the problem. In reading about them, it's seems they either work or they don't. I'm have a intermittent problem.

I guess it's possible some injectors and or the fuel pump could be going too. I can see the pump possibly working intermittently. Since I haven't looked into that, if like my Dodge, the pump is in the tank... I'll have to install a walbro externally.

It seems what I need to do is get a Chilton book or who ever makes one on my van. I don't know the International like I do my Cummins. I was hoping to find everything online because of the van's age. This site has a lot of good info and you guys have help a lot but..... I need pictures and diagrams!! :popcorn:

The fuel pump for these trucks are on the inside of the frame by the drivers door area.
 
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