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Old 02-19-2011, 03:02 AM   #1
SLW
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Coolant Flush Qestion

At 103K my EGR cooler went out with that my HG's let go, thankfully no damage to any thing else.. I had an EGR Delete, new cooler, head gaskets and ARP's installed. Should I do the coolant flush routine that I have read about? My worry is that I will clog my my new oil cooler with the crap that is still in the engine. Should I just install my new coolant filter and go with it?
I'm the original owner.
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Last edited by SLW; 02-19-2011 at 03:16 AM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 07:43 PM   #2
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We just flushed my dad's '03 with Fleetguard Restore (alkaline) then Restore Plus (acidic, similar to VC-9). I was also concerned about knocking too much crap loose so we did a milder mixture of each, just two quarts instead of the full gallon of each. It takes lots of water flushes after each, so don't bother with distilled water until the final two flushes. We have a distiller and after going through about 25 gallons gave up and used tap water, then did a final flush with distilled. Pulling the block plugs lets a lot more drain out too, you only get about half when you just drain the radiator.

As far as the oil cooler efficiency goes, I was monitoring it during each flush with AE on high idle. After the Restore, I started to see abut 7-8 degrees difference, then after the water flushes, Restore Plus, and more water, they were within 1 degree again.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:25 PM   #3
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I use Arm and Hammer washing Soda and Dawn dishwasher soap if there is oily residue. The fleetguard products are great, but why pay the extra cash and from what I have seen the arm and hammer removes the scale build up even better than anything I have ever used. Dawn is by far the best at getting any oily residue out. If it is your daily driver, fill it up and take it to work, drain the block, if you have access to an air compressor blow out the heater core. I mix it up in a pail with warm water and mix with a paint mixer then pore into another container, to fill the unit. top it off in the morning you want it as full as possibler so it blows out the overflow, cleaning the recovery tank. If you do it on a cement driveway, or into a drain pan you can see the crud coming out. disposal is pore it on your lawn when it cools it is fertilizer. You keep doing it until it comes out clean it does take a while.
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:55 AM   #4
SLW
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Thanks! now I need to figure out where the block plus are.
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cartmanea View Post
We just flushed my dad's '03 with Fleetguard Restore (alkaline) then Restore Plus (acidic, similar to VC-9). I was also concerned about knocking too much crap loose so we did a milder mixture of each, just two quarts instead of the full gallon of each. It takes lots of water flushes after each, so don't bother with distilled water until the final two flushes. We have a distiller and after going through about 25 gallons gave up and used tap water, then did a final flush with distilled. Pulling the block plugs lets a lot more drain out too, you only get about half when you just drain the radiator.

As far as the oil cooler efficiency goes, I was monitoring it during each flush with AE on high idle. After the Restore, I started to see abut 7-8 degrees difference, then after the water flushes, Restore Plus, and more water, they were within 1 degree again.
Good info Cartmanea. Just curious though, what type coolant did you refill with?

Harry
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:42 PM   #6
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We used Zerex HD Extended Life, it's a red ELC similar to CAT and Fleetgard ELC. Since that is what International specs for the motor, I figured we couldn't go wrong, and get rid of the Premium Gold crap with the oil-cooler-blocking silicates.

Another benefit, the red coolant is much easier to see inside the yellowed degas bottle. With the Premium Gold in there you couldn't hardly see where the level was.
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2003 F250 FX4 Sport, 6.0L Diesel, TorqShift Auto
- 4" Icon springs, Bilstein shocks, Detroit TrueTrac
- 4.30 Yukon gears, Off Road Tech winch bumper, Banks Technicooler
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Old 02-20-2011, 03:51 PM   #7
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I just flushed my engine at 73000 with restore and VC-9.
I put back the Premium Gold because of warranty reasons.
I checked my EOT vs ECT and it never exceeds 7 degrees, so I think the oil cooler is still flowing enough to get me by for awhile.

I was thinking of switching over to ELC when my warranty ends.
Does anyone know how the ELC stacks up on corrosion protection?
In the descriptions of the silicate type coolants they seemed to say that the silicate coats the metal parts and in this way protects them.
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06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust w/cat delete
SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
Self-refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, Upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, new IPR
Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, Oil cooler rebuild kit from Ford and new EGR valve
Upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
Wagner Thermo-Quiet Brake pads in front, Wearever Ceramic Brake pads in back
Magnafine filter on power steering pump return line
Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40
Archoil 9100 friction modifier
2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (8 oz. Diesel Kleen every 5-6 tanks in summer; 8 oz. Diesel fuel supplement Plus Cetane every tank in winter)
Mercon LV replaced every 35,000 miles
Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
Enhanced Brass HFCM Drain Plug
1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
Replaced original Motocraft batteries with AutoZone Duralast Gold @73,500 (4 1/2 years) and upgraded positive cable between the batteries to 2/0 gauge; replaced under warranty(cool) with 2nd set of Duralast Gold @111,000 (<3 years)

Future Mods:
Teflon sway bar bushings
Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
Cooling system filter
OEM HG/ARP studs
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Old 02-20-2011, 04:15 PM   #8
cartmanea
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IMO, the ELC is better in every way. They just use different corrosion inhibitors than silicates. In our engines, the silicates can precipitate out of the coolant at high temps, such as in the EGR cooler, and this creates the sludge that everyone finds in their plugged up oil coolers.
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- 4" Icon springs, Bilstein shocks, Detroit TrueTrac
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Old 02-20-2011, 09:11 PM   #9
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OK. I guess I will switch over as soon as my warranty is up, however, I may extend the warranty if I think it will be worth the money. The Ford 48 month 48,000 Baseline Extended Warranty looks pretty attractive to me at this point. It has the extra coverage I'm looking for. For example it covers the injectors and high pressure oil pump, as well as the oil and egr coolers. They will need to examine my truck before they will sell it to me. And before I buy the extended warranty it I will make sure they will still honor the warranty if I do my own service. I'm pretty sure they will, since it will most likely be handled the same way the new car warranty was handled. The dealer that you take it to has a lot to do with your experience, and the way my dealer handles my service is not perfect, but it's pretty good.
__________________
06' F250 Mods:

Performance related:
K&N E-0780 Air Box, ZooDad Mod
Garrett Powermax Turbo, CFM+ Smallmouth Intake Manifold
Blue Fuel Pressure Spring, Large fuel lines from pressure regulator to heads
MBRP 4" Turbo back exhaust w/cat delete
SCT SF3 Tuner w/SRL custom tunes from Matt at GearheadAutomotivePerformance.com

Reliability Mods:
Self-refurbished 50 volt FICM, Eliminated STC fitting, Upgraded stand pipes and dummy plugs, new IPR
Bulletproof Diesel EGR cooler, Oil cooler rebuild kit from Ford and new EGR valve
Upgraded turbo oil supply and drain
Wagner Thermo-Quiet Brake pads in front, Wearever Ceramic Brake pads in back
Magnafine filter on power steering pump return line
Oil change rotation; 5k-5W40/5k-15W40/5k-15W40
Rotella T5 or Valvoline Blue Extreme 5W40, Rotella or NAPA 15W40
Archoil 9100 friction modifier
2/3 Qt. tcw3 2 cycle oil per tank Power Service (8 oz. Diesel Kleen every 5-6 tanks in summer; 8 oz. Diesel fuel supplement Plus Cetane every tank in winter)
Mercon LV replaced every 35,000 miles
Cooling system flush with Restore and VC-9 @ 73,000 miles w/new thermostat
Eliminated clunk while sitting at a light (75,000 miles); Lubed rear drive-shaft spline with Ford lubricant; Symptom returned at 100,000 miles...re-lubed at 112,000 miles....wow!! it's so smooth again.

Miscellaneous:
Enhanced Brass HFCM Drain Plug
1/2" shim on carrier bearing mount
Replaced original Motocraft batteries with AutoZone Duralast Gold @73,500 (4 1/2 years) and upgraded positive cable between the batteries to 2/0 gauge; replaced under warranty(cool) with 2nd set of Duralast Gold @111,000 (<3 years)

Future Mods:
Teflon sway bar bushings
Moog Ball Joints (originals seem to be holding tight at 108,000 miles; it's just a daily driver, so this seems to make sense)
Cooling system filter
OEM HG/ARP studs
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Old 02-20-2011, 10:30 PM   #10
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International built this motor and it is ELC they use. But maybe Ford knows something International doesn't. Trust me they (ford) don't.
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