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Old 11-12-2010, 01:03 AM   #1
tnutz
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Diesel fuel in antifreeze

I have been smelling diesel fuel more and more and couldn't find a leak. When I looked under the hood today noticed two levels of fluid in antifreeze overflow resivior. Took the cap off and found my diesel smell. How does the diesel fuel get in the antifreeze? Is it safe to drive a little or will it do further damage to engine? I took turkey baster and got the diesel fluid out that was on top. By the way truck running great and is not near overheating. Thanks for any info. Travis
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:50 AM   #2
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injector cups are leaking.

go to http://www.rosewooddieselshop.com/ and click on injector cup tool. this will let you know what your up against

As for damage to your engine? The fuel pressure is at 60 psi and the max coolant temp is 16psi, but when you shut the engine down the fuel pressure will drop to 0 and it may take a while for the coolant pressure to come down.

If you must run the truck I would loosen or remove the coolant cap so, the coolant can not pressurize.
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Old 11-12-2010, 01:51 AM   #3
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Diesel can enter into the coolant from injector orings or injector cups coppers fuel pressure is greater than water pump pressure.
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Old 11-12-2010, 03:17 AM   #4
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Thanks I did a lot of searching and found out it is most likley injector cups. Whitaker tool makes a removal tool I think with engine in. But for a big price tag of $399. Has anyone used one or a tool like it without removing engine? Also how do I find the one or ones that are leakin(take in for pressure test)? Or should I replace them all. Is there a way to tell if it is just o rings? Sorry for all the questions just lost and do not want to spend $3000 to get fixed just payed off. Thanks Travis
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Old 11-12-2010, 11:09 AM   #5
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Well just bought the master kit with sleeves, o rings, removal tool, install tool and loctite frome rosewood $450 with shipping. Thanks for the link hayjayhorses that price is a lot better than Whitaker tool and includes everything. I will be up north hunting for a week leavin tomorrow for a week. At least I dont have to drive my truck after going to work today. Any helpful hints on doing this would be great. When I get home from hunting I will tackle this in driveway since wont fit in garage. Thanks for any input Travis
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:20 PM   #6
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Rosewood has an instruction page you could print out, sadly it doesnt have any pics. Just take your time and make sure they are good and straight when putting them back in and you'll be just fine
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:27 PM   #7
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Obviously drain the coolant and be prepared for a complete service, oil, filters and fresh coolant.

- Remove the SMALL plugs at the back in the HP oil rails to drain oil from them BEFORE you even loosen any injectors. You can remove the HP oil feed lines to get the rails to drain faster.

- Remove the REAR injector on each side before any others, if any quantity of oil remains in the HP rail, at least you KNOW where it went, the rear cylinders.

- When the job is completed, use a small hose and wet-dry vac to suck any liquid from each cylinder BEFORE you turn it over.

- Install the new OEM o-rings onto the injectors and let them sit at "room temperature" for at LEAST 30 minutes before you install the injectors. Too cold, or not enough time and you stand an excellant chance of damaging the o-ring(s).

- BraKleen on a rag will clean the new tubes and bore in the head before you apply the sealant.

- Let everything cure for a day if it's cold before you add fluids.

- It's an excellant time to check the GPs, take a good (non-LED) test lamp, connect to B+ and touch each GP tip, if the light lights, that GP is good.
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Old 11-13-2010, 03:46 PM   #8
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Removing the injector cups( if all goes well by tapping threads into the injector cup) with Whitaker tool can be easy if they all come out on the first pull.Be careful of dropping copper material down the injector bore hole and use grease on the tap. This tool was used by caterpillar till caterpillar came out with a stainless steel threaded injector sleeve cup made the whole job very easy.This tool would screw into the S/S cup and pull out very easy. Check with ford and see if they have S/S injector cups it sure would make this job a real back saver.If not avail then after you get all coppers sweged into the injector bore fill the radiator with coolant and pressure check for water leaks looking down the injector hole.Use primer on the injector seat area and head bore then a bead of locktite on the cup no need to wait on the locktite to cure it does it all by itself with no air present.

Last edited by 05chopper; 11-13-2010 at 04:05 PM. Reason: more info
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Old 11-13-2010, 04:56 PM   #9
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I should have been more clear, the SMALL galley plugs are under the valve cover and NOT at the rear of the head.

There is one plug near the front and one near the rear, remove the REAR plugs to drian the oil from the HP oil rail.
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Old 11-21-2010, 07:31 PM   #10
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Just did mine with Jim's kit about a month ago. Tool worked great. I did have grind around the puller bolt's shoulder so I could get a socket over it to tighten the tap. The shoulder on the puller bolt was a little too large to pass up into the deep well I had to crank the tap in. Toss a penny down into the injector cup BEFORE starting the tap. It will prevent any shavings from the tap getting in the cylinder. Not a bad job at all just time consuming. Good luck.
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