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Old 11-21-2011, 02:20 PM   #1
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Turning up 3406C Cat

I've got a Freightliner with a 3406C (fully mechanical) CAT, 3ZJ serial #. It is a factory 350hp motor and was gone through at some point not that long before I bought it. I'm toting around 71k, and the more I drive it the more I realize how underpowered it is. I had a local Cat mechanic do some work on it and turn it up some while he was there (advanced timing, adjusted fuel), and other than being able to hear a little more timing knock I can't tell a difference (still no smoke).
Since then I've done some research and apparently the C models had a diff. injector pump that is harder to get fuel out of. Is that correct? If so can someone give me some pointers on how to get some more power out of this? I'm not ready to change turbos yet, and don't have a pyro, but just getting it to 400-425hp would be great. Thanks,
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:17 PM   #2
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I also have a 350 hp C ( 8PN serial #) and turning up the fuel on the pump did very little if anything on my truck. I have yet to get a straight answer as to what needs to be done to get more power from it. the only thing different externally on my 350 than 425's I've been is I have a small, non-wastgagted turbo. my Dad had a 425 hp C and he had a much larger turbo with a wastegate. with the afc thing turned up my truck will blow some black smoke, but thats all it does. it runs good don't get me wrong but it's no 425...

can anyone help us out???????? ynot?

I'm thinking our 350's have different pistons, cams, timing, compression ratio, basically everything is different than a 425 internally.

oh pulling a load I max out 27-28 psi boost and 800 on the pyro.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dondiesel444 View Post
it runs good don't get me wrong but it's no 425..
Agreed, mine runs good, but just not enough power for the hilly land where I live. Mine also has the small turbo, I may end up having to swap turbos to get where I need to be if I can get the fuel end of things figured out.
I have a buddy who hauls a similar load (78k) with a 475 3406B. Has enough power he rarely even splits the high side of his trans (13spd), and leaves me wishing for more.
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Old 11-22-2011, 04:08 AM   #4
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I had a 350 3zj with small turbo, I put one off 425 on it and couldn't tell much difference. Cat mechanic told me it would never run without rebuild. Injectors,cam, pistons, timing. That was the first c model I bought. I'd had a 4mg 350 and after gov spring, nozzles and turbo, I had a dog that would hunt. But that was a b model. I finally just pulled the 3zj 350 for a 460 4ck.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:41 AM   #5
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After looking at some of the 8PN part numbers there doesnt seem to be anything that stands out. The cam seems to be the same throughout the prefix, and the same goes for the pistons.

I would venture to guess that the main differences would be turbo and nozzles, and there are only two options for nozzles.

The pistons are what worries me, I dont know how they would react to a different nozzle, and that wouold seem to be what is truly holding those engines back is the inability to get fuel in the cylinder. The number for the 425 nozzle that shows up is 127-9793, 0R-8290 is the reman.

Also, without the fuel an aftermarket turbo wont do much of anything.

If one of you could get me a complete serial number I can see what parts you are working with for sure.
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:45 PM   #6
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mine is 8PN09931
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Old 11-22-2011, 06:58 PM   #7
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Before you go spending a lot on changing stuff, be sure the fuel return line is open, be sure the fuel pressure is good , Check the CAC is not leaking. Check the AFRC, the diaphragm is good and there are no leaks. Inspect the turbo turbine is not damaged. Inspect and clean the air intake, the filter, be sure the housing is clean and the Flactuator valve is in place. Do a valve set.
If everything there is good then you have a base to start from.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:23 PM   #8
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And make sure your are getting full throdle.
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:09 AM   #9
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Can anyone tell me if the "springs method" works on the C pump I have? I'd rather not go through all the trouble and not gain anything. Here it is:

Take the line and 2) 1/4" bolt cover off the air fuel ratio on the very back and top of the gov. Nothing there to be scared of. Grab the plunger stem with plyers and break the 7/16" jam nut loose with box end wrench, Turn screw all the way in until just leaving enough threads to lock down. Not real precision, just set it anywhere tight. Re-assemble... On the very bottom of the rear of the gov. towards the outside (frame side) is another 1" tall 1/4" bolt cover. Remove the bolts, one on top of the other this time, and smack down on the cover with a screwdriver and hammer. The harder the better. It'll leave the gasket perfectly intact for reassembly that way. Again, nothin to screw up so have at it. Facing in from the back stick your pinky in the slotted hole and push in on that thing. Just face the front of the truck, turn palm up and stick it in. Again, and just to clarify, this is all idiot proof and you can't mess anything up on any of this. Ain't rocket science, for real. Easiest motor to jack up, for sure. SSSooooo, you'll feel the rack screw bar with the fuel and torque screws. Just push on whatever you run into in there. The more travel, the more servo movement. All you're doing with your finger is makin sure another bonehead wasn't in there playin. Make sure when you push it all the way in (about 5/16" travel plus change is about 425hp stock, but doesn't really matter how fat it does go) you can feel about .030" or so (just picture a .030" gauge and guess, really) of secondary spring pressure. That is the torque spring on the stop bar. It doesn't have to be exactly anything, just want that little bit of extra pressure for torque rise. I won't explain it all, but your feeling torque spring pressure from the screw making sure someone before didn't turn one screw out from the other (doing it wrong). There are two screws side by side. If there is no pressure there, turn the outer most screw (towards you) in until there is. Do this with a 1/4" drive 3/8" deep socket (12 point is easier) with baby vice grips clamped to the very end as the lever and a sumthin stupid like 7/64" or somethin allen wrench down the center. Just take your allen set and stick it in the end of the screw to find the size (or call your local dealer, ask for truck shop and just ask em what size). Insert socket, break loose counter clockwise with allen wrench in hole, turn screw CCW and lock back down. If your torque pressure feels OK, or you reset it as stated, back out both screws evenly to the tune of about 20hp per turn or so. Wipe off housing and cover and stick back on with original gasket. No glues on anything anywhere here. If the trucks in good shape, go 3 turns or so and run it a round. If your pyro stays below 950, meaning it's timed close enough to stock or advanced properly, turn it out another 3 and call her good. That's it. Have fun. It can be super tweaked with meter timing and gov. removal, but you'll be pretty happy like this unless you run into me on the road somewhere. Want peace of mind and better mileage, take it to someone trustworthy (Cat dealer, and tellem you want an old timer on it) and set a tight overhead ($225 or so) and meter time ($100) to 17.5 degrees at 1000 and start at 1230, plus remove the stop screw and toss it. This won't make sense to you but that's exactly what you tell him. He'll know just what you're saying, believe me. That'll land you between 5.2 and 5.7mpg depending on what you haul, and between 530 and 560 hp. You'll know it all worked when it goes from 20psi boost to 27 the first time (3 turns) and 32+ the next (3 turns). Add an 0R6051 turbo for a couple more pounds and better power ($1000 with your core as an even swap, and don't let them try to tell you there's a core charge. There isn't, for sure). And don't worry, it'll all take it just fine. With more exagurated tuning, she'd pull 800hp just as it sits with no motor mods whatsoever and live to 750,000 miles without a hitch. If you're running 15psi boost right now and the first 3 turns didn't increase the boost, have the dealer replace you air fuel ratio diaphram ($100). Have fun... Thanks again to Tony from Welch Diesel Repair for this article!
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Old 12-02-2011, 03:56 AM   #10
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It woke my 3ZJ 425 up real good, some need a governor spring & spacers
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