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Old 12-18-2011, 04:40 AM   #1
DDT3406
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379 Clutch Adjustment

Just had a new clutch installed (buddy couldn't find the time to help me do it). The shop didn't completely adjust the linkage because the cab was sitting crooked due to bad cab mounts (which I replaced). The clutch is already within spec in regards to proximity to the throwout bearing (about 1/2" between the two with pedal released according to my service manual). All I need to do now is the linkage, but I want to make sure it's done right. Am I supposed to adjust the linkage ends or just set screw and jam nut near the cross shaft? Any suggestions are welcome.
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Old 12-18-2011, 06:37 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT3406 View Post
Just had a new clutch installed (buddy couldn't find the time to help me do it). The shop didn't completely adjust the linkage because the cab was sitting crooked due to bad cab mounts (which I replaced). The clutch is already within spec in regards to proximity to the throwout bearing (about 1/2" between the two with pedal released according to my service manual). All I need to do now is the linkage, but I want to make sure it's done right. Am I supposed to adjust the linkage ends or just set screw and jam nut near the cross shaft? Any suggestions are welcome.
Loosen both lock nuts and turn the long hex adjusting sleeve. It has reverse threads on one end. Every Pete I ever adjusted seemed like the sleeve was almost too short. A longer hollow pipe with welded nuts on either end worked great.....have to find one left thread nut though.
You'll be lucky if the threads are not siezed on the alum sleeve.
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Old 12-18-2011, 08:39 AM   #3
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Sled got it down right, but it you are having to adjust linkage then the clutch is not adjust right. You should never have to move your linkage to make a new clutch work.
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Old 12-18-2011, 01:55 PM   #4
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Sled got it down right, but it you are having to adjust linkage then the clutch is not adjust right. You should never have to move your linkage to make a new clutch work.


The only time to adjust the linkage is for setting the brake....which is usually not touched after the factory. But if you must, adjust brake first, then set the free travel with the pressure plate.
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2005 250 Super Duty Crew. White and Grey. ARP studs, EGR Delete, and SCT from Vivian. CCV re-route, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back.

Other trucks: 1979 Kenworth W900A reg hood, 1980 Ext hood, 1982 Kenworth Cabover Aerodyne (BJ and the Bear) 2000 and 2003 Kenworth W900's. All Caterpillar Power. My 2003 has an MBN I converted to 6NZ. Early 550 file, 211-3026 squirts. 800 cam. Acert twins via custom mount. ARP head bolts. 856 to the tires via Antrim Dyno.. with the tuned file.


Transporter and Operator of a Bauer Built Championship Unlimited Tractor Pulling Sled for the United Pullers of the Carolinas, Region IV affiliate of the National Tractor Pullers Association (NTPA), and damn proud of it!!!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:47 PM   #5
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The clutch engages fine. Are you guys saying that the only time I'd adjust the rod is for the clutch brake and the set screw/jam nut for free pedal?
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Old 12-18-2011, 02:53 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT3406 View Post
The clutch engages fine. Are you guys saying that the only time I'd adjust the rod is for the clutch brake and the set screw/jam nut for free pedal?
You adjust the linkage to stop the pedal about 1/2 inch off the floor to touch the brake. Then you adjust free travel with the pressure plate to gain 2-3". Not sure what you mean by set screw/jam nut. You have to roll the engine around until the adjuster on the pressure plate is at the inspection hole on the bottom of the clutch housing.

Depending on what type clutch you have, some have a bolt holding a lock in place, or it could have a 5/8" spring loaded bolt you have to push and turn to adjust free travel. ALL pressure plate adjustments are made with the clutch pedal depressed.
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2005 250 Super Duty Crew. White and Grey. ARP studs, EGR Delete, and SCT from Vivian. CCV re-route, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back.

Other trucks: 1979 Kenworth W900A reg hood, 1980 Ext hood, 1982 Kenworth Cabover Aerodyne (BJ and the Bear) 2000 and 2003 Kenworth W900's. All Caterpillar Power. My 2003 has an MBN I converted to 6NZ. Early 550 file, 211-3026 squirts. 800 cam. Acert twins via custom mount. ARP head bolts. 856 to the tires via Antrim Dyno.. with the tuned file.


Transporter and Operator of a Bauer Built Championship Unlimited Tractor Pulling Sled for the United Pullers of the Carolinas, Region IV affiliate of the National Tractor Pullers Association (NTPA), and damn proud of it!!!!
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Old 12-18-2011, 03:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT3406 View Post
The clutch engages fine. Are you guys saying that the only time I'd adjust the rod is for the clutch brake and the set screw/jam nut for free pedal?
Yes I had a truck with the set screw/ jam nut on the clutch arm and I used that for the free travel adjustment if needed after setting the 1/2" gap with the pressure plate. If the clutch brake isn't set at the height you want it you will have to adjust the linkage, but after you get it set you should never have to touch the linkage again.
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Old 12-18-2011, 09:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by SledMan View Post
You adjust the linkage to stop the pedal about 1/2 inch off the floor to touch the brake. Then you adjust free travel with the pressure plate to gain 2-3". Not sure what you mean by set screw/jam nut. You have to roll the engine around until the adjuster on the pressure plate is at the inspection hole on the bottom of the clutch housing.

Depending on what type clutch you have, some have a bolt holding a lock in place, or it could have a 5/8" spring loaded bolt you have to push and turn to adjust free travel. ALL pressure plate adjustments are made with the clutch pedal depressed.
Hey SledMan,
My clutch uses a 5/8" Quick Adjust set up (spring loaded). It feels good engaging, but the pedal is half way to the floor right now. SL3406 knows what clutch linkage I have. He may have a better explanation. The linkage nearest the cross shaft (after the rod and ball/socket linkage ends) has a set screw and jam nut to adjust the pedal for free-play. I'm just not sure whether or not I'm supposed to adjust the entire linkage assembly or just the screw and nut to get the pedal where I need it. The shop put brand new linkage ends in the rod, so I'd think they're properly adjusted, but I'm not sure. Far from an expert. Here to learn!
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Old 12-19-2011, 02:44 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT3406 View Post
Hey SledMan,
My clutch uses a 5/8" Quick Adjust set up (spring loaded). It feels good engaging, but the pedal is half way to the floor right now. SL3406 knows what clutch linkage I have. He may have a better explanation. The linkage nearest the cross shaft (after the rod and ball/socket linkage ends) has a set screw and jam nut to adjust the pedal for free-play. I'm just not sure whether or not I'm supposed to adjust the entire linkage assembly or just the screw and nut to get the pedal where I need it. The shop put brand new linkage ends in the rod, so I'd think they're properly adjusted, but I'm not sure. Far from an expert. Here to learn!
Ok, I know what you are sayin now. KW's are different...sorry. Use the bolt and lock nut to set the release bearing to hit the brake and stop about 1/2" off the floor. Then adjust the pressure plate to achieve 2-3" free travel, or what ever suits you. I lay on a creeper on my right side, coming in from the driver side. With the adjuster at the bottom of the opening, I take my left hand and push against the case with the back of my hand, holding the wrench, while I turn the bolt to adjust. Remember, the clutch pedal has to be depressed while turning the bolt. Being you have half a pedal of free, you will need to turn the bolt counterclockwise to bring the pedal back to the top.

Always make sure the bolt locks, or pops back out when you are done....
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2005 250 Super Duty Crew. White and Grey. ARP studs, EGR Delete, and SCT from Vivian. CCV re-route, and 4" Magnaflow turbo back.

Other trucks: 1979 Kenworth W900A reg hood, 1980 Ext hood, 1982 Kenworth Cabover Aerodyne (BJ and the Bear) 2000 and 2003 Kenworth W900's. All Caterpillar Power. My 2003 has an MBN I converted to 6NZ. Early 550 file, 211-3026 squirts. 800 cam. Acert twins via custom mount. ARP head bolts. 856 to the tires via Antrim Dyno.. with the tuned file.


Transporter and Operator of a Bauer Built Championship Unlimited Tractor Pulling Sled for the United Pullers of the Carolinas, Region IV affiliate of the National Tractor Pullers Association (NTPA), and damn proud of it!!!!
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:14 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DDT3406 View Post
Hey SledMan,
My clutch uses a 5/8" Quick Adjust set up (spring loaded). It feels good engaging, but the pedal is half way to the floor right now. SL3406 knows what clutch linkage I have. He may have a better explanation. The linkage nearest the cross shaft (after the rod and ball/socket linkage ends) has a set screw and jam nut to adjust the pedal for free-play. I'm just not sure whether or not I'm supposed to adjust the entire linkage assembly or just the screw and nut to get the pedal where I need it. The shop put brand new linkage ends in the rod, so I'd think they're properly adjusted, but I'm not sure. Far from an expert. Here to learn!

Well I will offer a different opinion and you can do what works for you. I was taught to set the gap at a 1/2" and adjust the free travel with the bolt if it has one and the linkage if it doesn't. I only run about 1 1/2" of free travel.
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