13 speed eaton grinding between high and low

cdwood388 · 06-09-2012, 07:07 PM

I have a 13 double over trans in one of my trucks and when you go from the low to the high side with the selector it makes a loud grinding noise but goes into the high side, it doesnt do it going to the low side from the high. I just got the truck a few months ago and it has been working great, until two days ago when it started doing this. What do I need to check? I think its a 14613 trans but the tag is gone so I am not sure, its in an older volvo late 80's but the trans is not the original to the truck.

theakerstwo · 06-09-2012, 09:57 PM

First check the air pressure on the trans after the pressure regulator. It should be 60 to 65 psi.Butb if its grinding it means it needs the rear box knocked off and snychros replaced. Also if you find a pin broken in one of the snychronizers then you have or had a vibration behind the trans in the drive line.Running one with the air bags deflated very far will do the same thing.Or can.

manasteel · 06-09-2012, 09:57 PM

the fabric is gone from the hi/lo syncro in the rear section. the back half will have to come off to replace it.

cdwood388 · 06-09-2012, 11:40 PM

ok, I already checked all the pressures and the piton slides very easy so it neither of those, so the symchro is the last thing. How hard is it to pull the back half and replace this synchro. I have never done this. I can see ow it comes off and I already have the driveline out so where Do I go from here and what should I look for? Any help or advice is much appreciated.

theakerstwo · 06-10-2012, 01:21 AM

Go to the lititure section of eaton .com and in the trans section you can down load a manual but find the model first before you start looking.It will be easy to read the manaul and some photos in there. Too many things to try to tell you with out leaving out something you need to know.

manasteel · 06-10-2012, 03:23 AM

its going to be heavy enough to blow your sack out so dont think you and a friend are going to lift it out! the hardest part of the repair is putting it back in, keep it square all the way in. sometimes she'll go other times she's going to fight till tomorrow. when it goes it's going to go all the way, get a couple bolts in tight then use a blast of air to hi side then lo side see that she's in time. nice crisp clack when shift is made otherwise its probably not timed right the repair it's self is not too hard. have faith you can do it!

cdwood388 · 06-10-2012, 03:31 AM

I took all the bolts out of the case and all the air lines and speedo wiring and everything. I drained the trans of course and split the two halves apart a little and let the rest of the oil drain overnight since it got dark and I was in my driveway. I will have it apart in the morning so it should not be a problem. I just need to know what to do when I am putting it back together, anything I have to line up or get in time, other than the two dowel pins? I read something that the range clutch has to be locked in low before reassembly.

manasteel · 06-10-2012, 04:57 AM

with it on the bench, look down on the two counter shafts you may see white paint or two o o on the smaller gears, divide the larger gear on the main shaft in half so a tooth is in between the o o mark the gears with a paint marker. remove rear bearing covers at the rear, mark which side is which along with the shim. remove yoke nut drive the main shaft forward untill you can remove the large gear on the main shaft and syncro. to assemble syncro set it on a rag install the springs set the two halfs together push and turn clockwise quickly it will snap together. putting it back in the truck you will need to leave the bearing covers off, in the countershaft is a 3/8 bolt hole or 5/8 left hand insert a bolt and plate to hold bearing cup to bearing so the shafts wont be hanging down or trying to jump time when you put it back in

manasteel · 06-10-2012, 06:18 AM

http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups..._trsm-0660.pdf
sorry my bad. thinking 16 not 14 this will get you what you need.
www.roadranger.com

cdwood388 · 06-10-2012, 06:50 PM

I got the back half off and onto my work bench. The very center of the output shaft has a gear that looks like it goes right into the center of the main part of the transmission. Both of the gears teeth are rounded off on the ends, is that normal or should they be different, they all look like they are bevelled. In the manual you gave me it says there is a 15/16 nut to remove to get the output shaft apart and mine only has what looks kinda like a snap ring but no holes to get pliers in. There is no metal or anything broken from first inspection. All the bearings are not tapered they are roller bearings.

06-09-2012, 07:07 PM	#1
cdwood388 Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 372 Points: 28,667 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts	13 speed eaton grinding between high and low I have a 13 double over trans in one of my trucks and when you go from the low to the high side with the selector it makes a loud grinding noise but goes into the high side, it doesnt do it going to the low side from the high. I just got the truck a few months ago and it has been working great, until two days ago when it started doing this. What do I need to check? I think its a 14613 trans but the tag is gone so I am not sure, its in an older volvo late 80's but the trans is not the original to the truck.

06-10-2012, 04:57 AM	#8
manasteel Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: redding ca. Posts: 142 Points: 16,328 Thanks: 0 Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts	with it on the bench, look down on the two counter shafts you may see white paint or two o o on the smaller gears, divide the larger gear on the main shaft in half so a tooth is in between the o o mark the gears with a paint marker. remove rear bearing covers at the rear, mark which side is which along with the shim. remove yoke nut drive the main shaft forward untill you can remove the large gear on the main shaft and syncro. to assemble syncro set it on a rag install the springs set the two halfs together push and turn clockwise quickly it will snap together. putting it back in the truck you will need to leave the bearing covers off, in the countershaft is a 3/8 bolt hole or 5/8 left hand insert a bolt and plate to hold bearing cup to bearing so the shafts wont be hanging down or trying to jump time when you put it back in Last edited by manasteel; 06-10-2012 at 05:07 AM.

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06-09-2012, 09:57 PM	#2
theakerstwo Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: tulsa ok Posts: 773 Points: 22,938 Thanks: 7 Thanked 118 Times in 108 Posts	First check the air pressure on the trans after the pressure regulator. It should be 60 to 65 psi.Butb if its grinding it means it needs the rear box knocked off and snychros replaced. Also if you find a pin broken in one of the snychronizers then you have or had a vibration behind the trans in the drive line.Running one with the air bags deflated very far will do the same thing.Or can.

06-09-2012, 11:40 PM	#4
cdwood388 Junior Member Threadstarter Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 372 Points: 28,667 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts	ok, I already checked all the pressures and the piton slides very easy so it neither of those, so the symchro is the last thing. How hard is it to pull the back half and replace this synchro. I have never done this. I can see ow it comes off and I already have the driveline out so where Do I go from here and what should I look for? Any help or advice is much appreciated.

06-10-2012, 01:21 AM	#5
theakerstwo Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: tulsa ok Posts: 773 Points: 22,938 Thanks: 7 Thanked 118 Times in 108 Posts	Go to the lititure section of eaton .com and in the trans section you can down load a manual but find the model first before you start looking.It will be easy to read the manaul and some photos in there. Too many things to try to tell you with out leaving out something you need to know.

06-10-2012, 03:23 AM	#6
manasteel Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: redding ca. Posts: 142 Points: 16,328 Thanks: 0 Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts	its going to be heavy enough to blow your sack out so dont think you and a friend are going to lift it out! the hardest part of the repair is putting it back in, keep it square all the way in. sometimes she'll go other times she's going to fight till tomorrow. when it goes it's going to go all the way, get a couple bolts in tight then use a blast of air to hi side then lo side see that she's in time. nice crisp clack when shift is made otherwise its probably not timed right the repair it's self is not too hard. have faith you can do it!

06-10-2012, 03:31 AM	#7
cdwood388 Junior Member Threadstarter Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 372 Points: 28,667 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts	I took all the bolts out of the case and all the air lines and speedo wiring and everything. I drained the trans of course and split the two halves apart a little and let the rest of the oil drain overnight since it got dark and I was in my driveway. I will have it apart in the morning so it should not be a problem. I just need to know what to do when I am putting it back together, anything I have to line up or get in time, other than the two dowel pins? I read something that the range clutch has to be locked in low before reassembly.

06-10-2012, 06:18 AM	#9
manasteel Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: redding ca. Posts: 142 Points: 16,328 Thanks: 0 Thanked 36 Times in 33 Posts	http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/groups..._trsm-0660.pdf sorry my bad. thinking 16 not 14 this will get you what you need. www.roadranger.com

06-10-2012, 06:50 PM	#10
cdwood388 Junior Member Threadstarter Join Date: Mar 2010 Posts: 372 Points: 28,667 Thanks: 1 Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts	I got the back half off and onto my work bench. The very center of the output shaft has a gear that looks like it goes right into the center of the main part of the transmission. Both of the gears teeth are rounded off on the ends, is that normal or should they be different, they all look like they are bevelled. In the manual you gave me it says there is a 15/16 nut to remove to get the output shaft apart and mine only has what looks kinda like a snap ring but no holes to get pliers in. There is no metal or anything broken from first inspection. All the bearings are not tapered they are roller bearings.

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