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Old 01-14-2007, 01:10 AM   #1
dondiesel444
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proper clutch adjustment

I'd like to know the proper way to adjust my clutch. the shop said after a week or so the pedal would come up and the clutch would need adjustment as it finally broke-in, but it hasn't happened yet. I guess eventually it will need adjustment, can some one tell me the proper way to do it by myself? thanks in advance
Don
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Old 01-14-2007, 02:21 AM   #2
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What kind of clutch is it? Solo, easy pedal?
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Old 01-14-2007, 02:26 AM   #3
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Old 01-14-2007, 04:21 AM   #4
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Short answer!(If indeed you are talking an esay pedal or spicer clutch.)If you can get it in to gear with out grinding ,if you have 3/4 to two inches of free pedal at the top leave it alone! when the free pedal is gone or down to 3/4 of and inch Its time to adjust! You do it thru the cover on the bottom You need to bar or crank the engine till the Adjustment wheel bolt is visable push the clutch in and jam the clutch to the floor with a stick or rod and push in the that adjustment bolt and give it 1 or 2 turns .
John might bite my head off if I say anymore !
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Old 01-14-2007, 11:05 AM   #5
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thanks. I know I have to turn the bolt in, but I didn't know how many turns and I didn't know it had to be done with the clutch pushed to the floor.
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Old 01-14-2007, 04:02 PM   #6
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See if i can explain this right, have to have pedal down, turn adjuster on ppa so you have 1/2-3/4 inch between bearing and clutch brake ,with pedal up then adj linkage if needed to get free pedal right alot of times you will not have to adj linkage. on clutch with lock held in with bolt and need adj. tool or pry bars on adj. seems like 2 tabs on adj. will be right or good start on a normal clutch adj-- hope this helps
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Old 01-14-2007, 05:15 PM   #7
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Load bars (if your around box van) are a nice convient adjustable way (i f you got more then one truck) of keeping the clutch to the floor if you are by yourself.
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Old 01-15-2007, 04:03 AM   #8
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Yes, the pedal needs to be pressed down. Won't be able to turn the adjusting ring otherwise. If working alone, I use a few wood blocks to hold the pedal down.

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Originally Posted by DSRTECH
See if i can explain this right, have to have pedal down, turn adjuster on ppa so you have 1/2-3/4 inch between bearing and clutch brake ,with pedal up then adj linkage if needed to get free pedal right alot of times you will not have to adj linkage. on clutch with lock held in with bolt and need adj. tool or pry bars on adj. seems like 2 tabs on adj. will be right or good start on a normal clutch adj-- hope this helps
2-3 tabs usually does it. With a clutch brake, you usually want ~9/16" gap between the brake and throwout bearing, or between the brake and the front cover that is around the input shaft of trans.

Also want ~1/8" of gap between the throwout bearing and clutch release forks.

Depending on the person who drives the truck, I tweak the 9/16" and 1/8" gaps. If the person has a bad tendency to push the pedal all of the way down when coasting to a stop, then I increase the gaps a bit, so the clutch brake squeeze starts later.

For the 9/16, I use a 3-4" long 3/8" bolt. If I'm driving the truck, I use the 9/16". If not, I set the gap such, that I can just spin the bolt head between the brake and bearing. I also shoot for 2" free travel, since most of the time, the guys driving aren't paying any attention to it. I don't usually hear that it needs to be adjusted, til I hear them grinding gears to start out.

If the clutch uses an adjusting bolt, in place of the tabs, I use a long handled 3/8" drive ratchet. One full swing of the handle travel is about the same as one tab. So, 2-3 swings is usually enough.
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