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Old 02-28-2007, 03:15 PM   #1
triton
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common 7.3L problems after 100K ?? .....

I'm hoping you guys can give me some pointers as to what typical problems are with a 7.3L DI.

It's in my work van which has a Quigley 4x4 conversion and recently turned 100K. I don't mind doing preventative maintenance even if the part isn't bad yet.

I've purchased glow plugs w/controller, CPS & belt to be replaced so far.

Besides the obvious like fluid changing, while I'm in motor.... are there another other parts that could use to be replaced or things done? EGR valve, wastegate, valve adjustment, injectors for example. I've looked and looked for a break down of this motor online but, have yet to find it. There also isn't a lot of talk about van here.

I bought it with 60K on the motor so, I'm not sure that anything other than oil changes have been done.
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:42 PM   #2
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I would deffinetly look at the water pump, those seem to go out right after a 100k, grab the fan and see if there is any play in it.
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Old 02-28-2007, 03:54 PM   #3
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Thats a strech... If you have been adding the additive into the coolant then the water pump will be fine. Might add a Coolant filter for good measure. Really other then fluid changes there is no adjustments to the rig.
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Old 02-28-2007, 04:38 PM   #4
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220k water pump.I did have the tranny give up at 74k and lost multipule alternators all the way up till my current mileage.Hubs gave up along with the wheel bearings around 240k.Front end steering parts have been rebuilt once tie rod ends steering box blah blah.Steering box is in need again at 270k.Those OEM's seem to last about 100k miles then start to wear out.I have swapped inj's 3 times non due to performace.1 actual turbo at around 190k it wasn't a stocker it was the BB

Thats about it.Going off memory drive about 50k+- a year.

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Old 02-28-2007, 06:30 PM   #5
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99,000 miles right now.

So far: Alternator, CPS, Torque Converter, and 1 U-joint.

After 100K :shrug:
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Old 02-28-2007, 08:17 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies guys.

Like kainers my tranny went out at 76K so it's ok now with a nice new 3yr. warranty :deal:

I don't think a van pulls as much current as a truck with all it's instruments does so, I guess I'm ok with the alternator... for now.

The fan feels as tight as it can be so, hopefully I'm ok with the W/P

It's nice to know not a whole lot needs to be done to keep it goin'. On a quick inspection I did see I'm going to need a new rear seal on the transfer. That's probably something to watch out for to along with the U-joints at it's age.

Thanks again !!
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:55 AM   #7
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I haven't touched my u-joints they are still factory.The rear end was replaced at 150k due to accident damage.Haven't touched the transfer case front end front axles or U-joints there either.
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Old 03-01-2007, 11:58 AM   #8
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I don't think Ford should have sold any trucks till they were 'Broken In' at 100k miles.
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Old 03-01-2007, 12:37 PM   #9
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keep an eye on the water pump definitly. there are 4 guys arround me that have 98-00 strokers that all had the water pump go out just after the 100 k mark. mine went out about 98k. keep an ehe on the fan for an idea on the w/p situation. if/when it dose go the fan nut is a pain in the a** to git off. use a air chissel to loosen it. (thats the best way ive *** up with after helping replace 4 of them.)
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Old 03-01-2007, 04:03 PM   #10
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a better way to remove fan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StrokinSnyd
keep an eye on the water pump definitly. there are 4 guys arround me that have 98-00 strokers that all had the water pump go out just after the 100 k mark. mine went out about 98k. keep an ehe on the fan for an idea on the w/p situation. if/when it dose go the fan nut is a pain in the a** to git off. use a air chissel to loosen it. (thats the best way ive *** up with after helping replace 4 of them.)
Use the vise grips with the chain on them... put it around the pulley and use a BFW (big wrench), put the housing in a vise, and there you have it. If you get the vise grips good and tight, it will not slide and scratch up the pulley. When I finally did that to take it off, it only took seconds. I supposed you could do that with thepump still on the motor. I already had mine pulled when I got around to that method.
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