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Old 01-31-2008, 08:10 PM   #1
Bouncer
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External Voltage Regulator Install

Ok guys and gals. After doing some researching and studying old pics I had, I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the PCM quits working. Symptoms are either no charge or overcharge, however they are designed to fail in a no charge state.

After insuring your alternator, batteries, and crank sensor are all good you can then use this diagram and save yourself about $800 on a new PCM. The alternator is a open field external regulated type. There fore it makes it easy to do this mod.

What you will need is a voltage regulator from an 89' or older Dodge/Chrysler vehicle, a plug with harness, several pieces of wire, three barrel crimp connectors, two small ring and one large ring connectors, crimp tool, black tape, cordless drill, 2 self tapping sheet metal screws.

First you will need to find a secure place on the fender well or firewall to mount the voltage regulator. Once a location is selected make sure to Sand the area down to bare metal where the screws you use to mount the regulator will make a good ground. Then on the back of the alternator you need to take the two small nuts off holding the black plastic formed block on. Once the block is removed, tape it up so as it can not touch any metal and cause a short. Then take the two small ring connectors that will fit the studs on the back of the alternator and crimp them onto two lengths of wire that will reach from the alternator to the voltage regulator. After crimping the connectors onto the wires, connect one each on the back of the alternator and tighten the nuts back up. Then route the wires from the alternator back to the voltage regulator. Next use your large ring connector and crimp it onto a piece of wire that will reach from your battery to the regulator. Route the wire from the battery to regulator, but DO NOT hook it up to the battery at this time. Now take one of the wires from the alternator and the wire from the battery and twist them together, then crimp them into one end of the barrel connector. Then take the other end of the barrel connector and crimp it onto the wire from the regulator plug that goes to the TOP post on the regulator. This is very important, it must be the wire going to the TOP post or you will pop the regulator. Then take the remaining wire from the plug and the alternator and crimp them together using the other barrel connector.

Now go back and hook the wire onto your battery post. Start your truck and verify that is charging. Put your tools away and go buy yourself another mod since you just saved $800 from not buying a new PCM.


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Old 02-05-2008, 04:09 PM   #2
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Yes, this will also work on Dodge gas powered trucks and vans. Actually any Dodge/Chrysler product that uses this type of alternator and computer controlled charging circut. Just a few days after writing this article my employee called and said my work van (97' 2500 w/318) was dead. We got it home and yanked the alternator and it checked good, so I knew what was wrong. Anyways I have two part numbers now from O'reilly Auto Parts.

Voltage Regulator part# MPI R296 - $14.99
Pigtail/Plug part# BWD PT173 - $5.69
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:17 PM   #3
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>[quote=Bouncer] I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to >wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the >PCM quits working.

I just did this conversion after my charging just completely died on my '94 Ram 1500 gas 5.2. It worked!

But one issue: the Check Engine light stays on. When I check the codes after the fix they are the same as before the fix (12; 37; 41; 55). Code 37 is no problem, it has always been there since I bought the truck used. That code seems meaningless for my gas 5.2 truck.
But the 12 and 41 codes make sense except that I fixed the charging problem.
Will the check engine light ever go out?

Great job with the diagram and description! It gave me the confidence to do this mod. Thanks.

Al
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Old 02-16-2008, 04:23 PM   #4
firepower
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One more question

Sorry for one more question:
You say to hook up the 12v wire to the battery post. So no fuse or switched power needed?

Thanks.
Al
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:43 AM   #5
Jonathan Watson
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question on install

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bouncer View Post
Ok guys and gals. After doing some researching and studying old pics I had, I have come up with a diagram that will show you how to wire in an external voltage regulator for when your internal regulator in the PCM quits working. Symptoms are either no charge or overcharge, however they are designed to fail in a no charge state.

After insuring your alternator, batteries, and crank sensor are all good you can then use this diagram and save yourself about $800 on a new PCM. The alternator is a open field external regulated type. There fore it makes it easy to do this mod.

What you will need is a voltage regulator from an 89' or older Dodge/Chrysler vehicle, a plug with harness, several pieces of wire, three barrel crimp connectors, two small ring and one large ring connectors, crimp tool, black tape, cordless drill, 2 self tapping sheet metal screws.

First you will need to find a secure place on the fender well or firewall to mount the voltage regulator. Once a location is selected make sure to Sand the area down to bare metal where the screws you use to mount the regulator will make a good ground. Then on the back of the alternator you need to take the two small nuts off holding the black plastic formed block on. Once the block is removed, tape it up so as it can not touch any metal and cause a short. Then take the two small ring connectors that will fit the studs on the back of the alternator and crimp them onto two lengths of wire that will reach from the alternator to the voltage regulator. After crimping the connectors onto the wires, connect one each on the back of the alternator and tighten the nuts back up. Then route the wires from the alternator back to the voltage regulator. Next use your large ring connector and crimp it onto a piece of wire that will reach from your battery to the regulator. Route the wire from the battery to regulator, but DO NOT hook it up to the battery at this time. Now take one of the wires from the alternator and the wire from the battery and twist them together, then crimp them into one end of the barrel connector. Then take the other end of the barrel connector and crimp it onto the wire from the regulator plug that goes to the TOP post on the regulator. This is very important, it must be the wire going to the TOP post or you will pop the regulator. Then take the remaining wire from the plug and the alternator and crimp them together using the other barrel connector.

Now go back and hook the wire onto your battery post. Start your truck and verify that is charging. Put your tools away and go buy yourself another mod since you just saved $800 from not buying a new PCM.


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Old 02-18-2009, 03:55 AM   #6
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question on install i have current run through the single wire on regulator when engine is off. and the voltage is running around 15volts .i`m thinking on just put a switch live wire.or is there something wrong that i`m over looking ?
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Old 05-24-2009, 07:07 AM   #7
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Will this work on any Chrysler motor?
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Old 06-03-2009, 02:07 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EbEvoVIII View Post
Will this work on any Chrysler motor?
That I am not for sure, but I have done this to my 98' Dodge 3/4 ton work van with a 318 engine and it worked just fine.
__________________
1995 Dodge 2500 - just a wore out old farm truck


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Old 07-23-2009, 03:42 AM   #9
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External Voltage Regulator?

Hey guys I'm thinkin its my voltage regulator, I have 98 dodge ram 12 valve and I not knowing put in a shorted battery in, so I'm on the highway and gauges start going wack truck stalled so I changed the the batteries to some optima red tops. So after that my ats commmander starts flickering engaging the TC at a dead stop and gauge pod lights flicker and its been getting worse so I changed the alternator and still the same thing. I don't have a problem with charging I maintain 13.4-13.9v at an idle. Any input?
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Old 11-22-2009, 03:07 AM   #10
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1990 Dodge Ram. Computer/regulator bypass successful!! THANKS!!
I'll update as anything develops. As for now, I got lights, heat and don't have to carry a charger with an extension cord everywhere I go, Yipee!!
Thanks again!
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