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Old 02-03-2009, 02:42 AM   #1
cat power
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855 cummins

How would i go about getting another 50 to 100 hp out of my 855 ... cuz haulin that d9 can be a pain in the *** when im full of dirt.
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Old 02-03-2009, 03:41 AM   #2
bmoeller
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The right way would be to change the button in the fuel pump and/or put in different orifices in the injectors.
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Old 02-04-2009, 12:01 AM   #3
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:16 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmoeller View Post
The right way would be to change the button in the fuel pump and/or put in different orifices in the injectors.
You have to put the injector on a test bench or injector comparrter to change the metering orfice and i dought any one has them any more. You cant just change oriffices with out looking at the out put. If you did you would have it runing so rough. Change the button to like a 22 and then try it. If it is a new style throdle shaft the back the screw out about 5 turns under the steel ball. You dont get much change with the throdle shaft. If it is a old style throdle shaft then you have to remove the shaft and on the inside of the shaft take out a screw and add some very small shims to open the hole in the shaft. The smaller the button size the more prssure you get.7 is the smallest and then there is a 10.12.15.17, and on up.depending on how much pressure you want you may have to go to a larger gear pump like a one inche. You dont want to adjust the screws on the side of the throdle shaft as many want to because they do not set rpm. If it is a AFC pump them on the side behind the throdle lever will be a set screw with a allen head that sets the no air on the AFC. you can adjust it to get the responce you want on take off but will not increase HP. If you go too far it will smoke on gear changes or if you go the other way too far the pedal will be slow on acceloration .Shims in the back on the big spring controls the high rpm but no need going crazy on high rpm. You can raise the top rpm but it will not increase the power at mid range verses not raising the top rpm. If that dont get you enough power then i know were you can get a higher flow injector for around 50 dollares exchange for a ptd. or top stop.

Last edited by theakerstwo; 02-04-2009 at 01:21 AM.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:40 AM   #5
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Not meant
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Originally Posted by theakerstwo View Post
You have to put the injector on a test bench or injector comparrter to change the metering orfice and i dought any one has them any more. You cant just change oriffices with out looking at the out put. If you did you would have it runing so rough. Change the button to like a 22 and then try it. If it is a new style throdle shaft the back the screw out about 5 turns under the steel ball. You dont get much change with the throdle shaft. If it is a old style throdle shaft then you have to remove the shaft and on the inside of the shaft take out a screw and add some very small shims to open the hole in the shaft. The smaller the button size the more prssure you get.7 is the smallest and then there is a 10.12.15.17, and on up.depending on how much pressure you want you may have to go to a larger gear pump like a one inche. You dont want to adjust the screws on the side of the throdle shaft as many want to because they do not set rpm. If it is a AFC pump them on the side behind the throdle lever will be a set screw with a allen head that sets the no air on the AFC. you can adjust it to get the responce you want on take off but will not increase HP. If you go too far it will smoke on gear changes or if you go the other way too far the pedal will be slow on acceloration .Shims in the back on the big spring controls the high rpm but no need going crazy on high rpm. You can raise the top rpm but it will not increase the power at mid range verses not raising the top rpm. If that dont get you enough power then i know were you can get a higher flow injector for around 50 dollares exchange for a ptd. or top stop.
Not meant for you, as I've seen 5, 7, 10, etc being the smallest button mentioned that there is. Actaully, the smallest is a "00". I have three. They are called (obviously) double otts, and are pure race.

Choosing a 22 without knowing his pump spec is kinda strange tho, unless I missed another post saying what is in it. I look at the number it has, go down three and use the shaft screw for the rest...T
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:21 AM   #6
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Just pull the spring out the injector pump give it a good tug and pop it back in. . .

Mike
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:20 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ynot View Post
Not meant

Not meant for you, as I've seen 5, 7, 10, etc being the smallest button mentioned that there is. Actaully, the smallest is a "00". I have three. They are called (obviously) double otts, and are pure race.

Choosing a 22 without knowing his pump spec is kinda strange tho, unless I missed another post saying what is in it. I look at the number it has, go down three and use the shaft screw for the rest...T
You wanna get rid of one of those "00" buttons. I havent ever heard of one, or ever seen one for sale. I think it would go nicely in my pump for the old BC1 that I have set up for pullin.
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Old 02-04-2009, 04:31 PM   #8
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You wanna get rid of one of those "00" buttons. I havent ever heard of one, or ever seen one for sale. I think it would go nicely in my pump for the old BC1 that I have set up for pullin.
How bout just make one. Get any button you can, weld the fuel bowl completely shut, file it back to pure flat, drop it in. Use only for short bursts and watch the pyro on the pull (you'll have to screw the shaft screw out about 6 turns also) . I'm kinda hangin on to these, as they have the OEM "00" stamp on them, which are now collector items I heard...T
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Old 02-04-2009, 08:42 PM   #9
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I have always wondered about doing that. I understand about them being collecters items, and if they are that easy to make then I wont have much trouble. Could you give us a little insight to what the button actually does. Thanks Tony.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:11 AM   #10
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I have always wondered about doing that. I understand about them being collecters items, and if they are that easy to make then I wont have much trouble. Could you give us a little insight to what the button actually does. Thanks Tony.

ANYTHING FOR YOU, BUD!!!!!!!!!!! The “button” (i.e. regulator plunger) acts as a pressure plunger, or regulator, just like the ones in an oil pump or fuel pump or whatever. The dif is the way it works. A Cummins PT (pressure timed) pump relies on increasing pressure to feed more fuel at a faster rate to the injectors. The more fuel, the faster the “pop” time of the injector. When the fuel cavity is full in the injector, the cam will pop it at a given rate according to when it’s “full” of fuel. The higher the rail (fuel) pressure, the faster it fills, the faster it will “pop” and unload during the cam stroke cycle on the injector lobe. At idle you may have 3 to 8psi rail pressure, hence a very slow pop (almost slobber), hence it only idles at as close to 19*BTDC as possible. Full load you will have 165 to 210psi (stock depending on CPL) with much more available with tinkering. More rpm’s, more fuel, fills much faster, pops much earlier from cam stroke to unload the injector at somewhere around 26.5 to 31* (in theory).

The plunger, as stated earlier, in a pressure plunger with a barely rounded head. The bigger the number of the button, the bigger the recess hole in the plunger. The bigger the recess, the faster and easier it can be pushed in to hold the rail to the desired steady state of pressure. On the flip side, the smaller the recess, the more pressure the pump has to build to push the plunger back against the idle spring, thereby by-passing it back into the main cavity of the T-pump inlet to start over again.

Not sure if that all made since, but in essence, the smaller the recess orifice, the higher the rail pressure by compensation. The bigger the recess, the easier to unload, hence the lower rail pressure.

All this has worked efficiently enough to make them go for 50 years or so, but the variables in the original design are the cause of the quirks they've had since genesis, the main one being that PT pumps are RPM sensitive, not load sensitive. That means on a PT at 1/4 throttle you can hit 2200rpm, so PTO capability is close to non-existant. On a scroll or sleeve metered pump they are load sensitive, so 1/4 throttle is always 1100rpm(+/-), and if a PTO is added, it fuels more by servo and/or bellcrank to keep it there (which is obviously prefered).

Hope that helped. Be cool bro!!…T

Last edited by ynot; 02-05-2009 at 01:10 AM. Reason: brain fart again. stunk too. Had my springs backwards in my head...
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