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GRAND ROCK 5-INCH EXHAUST FOR |
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1994-2002 DODGE 2500-3500 |
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By Tim Turner (Timbeaux38) |
| There are a few modifications that everyone
should do before adding tuners or modules that increase horsepower.
Generally, everyone will tell you that gauges, a free flowing intake,
and a free flowing exhaust are needed before you start to spend money on
bigger HP modifications. There are other articles written about the
importance of a free flowing intake and installing gauges, so those
won't be covered here. Instead, I’m going to be going over the basics
of upgrading your truck’s exhaust system, why you should do it, and
what to look for in choosing an exhaust.
The main reason people want to upgrade the exhaust is the benefit of lower EGT’s (Exhaust Gas Temperatures). It's very important to keep EGT’s low to ensure the longevity of your diesel motor. Pulling heavy loads for extended periods of time, lugging down your motor, and hot-rodding can all lead to EGT’s rising into the "danger" zone (generally thought to be above 1200 degrees Fahrenheit pre-turbo.) One way to combat high EGT’s is to make the exhaust less restrictive, make the pipe larger, or a combination of both. Common upgrade's are 4 inch and 5 inch pipe. The larger pipe allows hot exhaust gasses to escape more quickly, thus lowering the EGT's in the motor. Other benefits of the upgraded exhaust may be a horsepower gain and/or a fuel mileage gain, because the engine does not have to work as hard to expel the exhaust. There are several well known companies that produce aftermarket exhaust kits for diesel powered trucks. Kits can be found in Stainless Steel and Aluminized versions. Since I live in the Southeast, road salt is not a concern, so I decided to go with an aluminized exhaust. Aluminized systems are often less expensive than their Stainless Steel counterparts. While looking at systems, I came across Grand Rock Exhaust. Having been around diesels for quite some time, and having installed various configurations of exhaust kits before, I was immediately impressed with Grand Rock’s AccuSeal system of joining pipes together. Anyone that has tried to pull a muffler, or replace a length of pipe knows how normal U-bolts can crush the pipes, causing all sorts of headaches when trying to get them apart. Also, all of Grand Rock’s hangers are zinc-plated, making them rust proof. This is very helpful if you make any adjustments to your exhaust down the road. Grand Rock offers 2 kits for the 94-02 Dodge Cummins, a 4 inch system, and a 5 inch system. I chose to go with the 5 inch system. It has a throatier tone and looks really nice. Normally the Grand Rock kit is a 4 inch pipe from the turbo to the over-axle pipe. The folks at Grand Rock were nice enough to send me enough 5 inch pipe to go from my downpipe back.To do the install, you will need: |
| sawzall, hacksaw, scroll saw or cutting wheel to cut the old exhaust out of the truck |
| 9/16th deep well socket |
| 13 mm socket and a wobler. |
| long extension to remove and replace the downpipe |
| pry bar and some lubricant. |
| Start by cutting the old exhaust behind the transmission cross member. Use the sawzall, cutting wheel, or hacksaw. |
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| Grab your extension and remove the 2 bolts holding the downpipe to the turbo flange with the 13mm socket. You may need the wobler. Here are the bolts from the top. |
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The bolts can be removed from the top, but it is much easier to go at them from the bottom with the extension. Here is a view of the bolts from the underside. |
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Once you have the downpipe loose, it helps to have a buddy there to help you slide the old exhaust out. It may be tricky, but it should come out in 2 pieces. Use some spray lube and a pry bar to make removing the hangers easier. Here is the old exhaust. |
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To make this next part easier, drop the spare out from under the truck to give yourself some more room. I also laid out the new exhaust pieces in the bed of the truck. |
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The first piece to install is the
new downpipe (4th from right). It takes a minute to wiggle
all the way in, but it will fit. Line your flange back up, grab your
13mm socket, long extension and wobbler, and attach the bolts. Don’t
snug them up yet, you will need a bit of wiggle room trying to line
everything up. Next, grab your 4 to 5 inch reducer
and slip that onto the downpipe. You can go ahead and snug it up with a
4-inch clamp. Now, grab one of the long straight
lengths of 5 inch pipe and slip into the reducer (slide in from rear). You will notice that you have another 61 inch section of pipe. You won't need all of that. To determine just how much you will need, install the over-axle piece, but keep the hangers loose. |
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Now, measure the distance from the
back of the installed intermediate pipe, to the over-axle pipe, and add
5 inches. This will be the length you need to cut the remaining straight
pipe to. (Will
be different depending on cab and bed configurations.)
Remember to MEASURE TWICE AND CUT ONCE! |
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| Put your tip on the over axle pipe. |
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Put your spare back on the truck and check clearance again. Then step back from the truck and make sure the tip is where you want it. |
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| Take a hot lap around the block, enjoying that cool new sound. Re-tighten all clamps and hangers when you get back. |
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Thanks to: Grand Rock Exhaust
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Thanks to Stacy Belcher of B&M Services, |
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