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Still will not start, now what?

5K views 18 replies 4 participants last post by  Lonesome7.3 
#1 ·
My 6BT still will not start and I have no idea what else to do. I have replaced the lift pump with a piston driven one, removed and blew out the lines, replaced the filter, and cleaned the tank. Fuel is flowing through the system. I bled it just like it is described in this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3UuMgm8BZc&feature=related
Very good information in all three of them. I hear the solenoid clicking when I hit the key and fuel in flowing through the lines to the injectors but the damn thing still will not start. What else is there for me to do?
 
#2 ·
How many times did you push the primer? On my '97, I usually had to push it maybe upwards of 75+ pumps to bleed it good. Could hear the overflow valve chatter at me. Usually did another 20pumps after if started to chatter at it always popped right off.

Are you actually hearing the shut down solenoid click? Or is it something else? I'd pull the solenoid, and see if it is actually doing its job, or if it is damaged and preventing it from allowing the engine to start.
 
#4 ·
Are you actually hearing the shut down solenoid click? Or is it something else? I'd pull the solenoid, and see if it is actually doing its job, or if it is damaged and preventing it from allowing the engine to start.

I am pretty sure I hear the solenoid clicking.
Re-read my post. Plus, there are other relays that will be clicking in the start/run position of the key. Got to check what is going on. I'd lend a hand, but you're about 16hrs away.
 
#6 ·
If he is getting fuel to the injectors then it is not a shut down solenoid problem.
I would be looking more towards a timing has slipped problem.
Can you check the fuel pressure. I have a pressure regulator valve, the fuel return valve, that has the 1/8 plug in it. Tpo front inside of injection pump, if you have the P7100 pump, the one with the ball visible is useless, The one with the 1/8 plug you can buy a new regulator valve. Then a new sealing washer and remove the banjo bolt from the fuel inlet and replace it with the old regulator, take out the plug, the spring and the ball. Insert a fitting and a preasure guage.
You may have to grind a bit of the head away to get the old regulator out.
Works for me!
 
#12 ·
If he is getting fuel to the injectors then it is not a shut down solenoid problem.
If it isn't allowing enough fuel to flow, it can. More of an issue with a P pumped engine though. Linkage gets stiff and needs lubed up. IIRC, he is working on an engine with the VE.
 
#8 ·
No but the banjo bolt for the return is the same as the input. if the return banjo bolt has a 1/8 plug in it you can make a fuel pressure test fitting.
 
#10 ·
If you want to test the fuel pressure, that is a cheap and easy way of doing it.
 
#14 ·
Pull the solenoid. Under it is a spring and a plunger. Remove them and reinstall the solenoid.

If the engine will start then the problem is the solenoid.

You will need to shut the engine down with the manual kill lever.
 
#16 ·
The fuel solenoid is located on the backend of the injection pump. It is above where the injector lines come out. It is the only solenoid on the pump. I think it takes a 1 1/16" wrench. Unhook the wires. Then unscrew the solenoid.

If the truck has an intercooler. There is a rear pump support sticking up that will not allow you to fit a wrench onto the solenoid. That piece of bracket will need to be trimed out of the way.
 
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