Join Date: Jul 2011
Thanked 17 Times in 15 Posts
The oil cooler replacement is part of the repair that I have been talking about from the very beginning. That does indeed require that the intake manifold be removed (per the service manual and every single Tech or other person I have talked to thus far).
I am not going into intimate, baby-step-by-baby-step, detail of how to do that repair to be picked apart by you or anyone else.
I have a thread on a different forum that outlines this repair. It has pdf files posted for the "how to" along with some notes and tips (including cleaning out the exhaust drive side of the turbo and the part number for that kit along with a few parts that would be easily upgraded at that time.
If you are in agreement with John_G and don't think you should clean your cooling system prior to replacing the oil cooler and EGR cooler (or deleting the EGR cooler) because your EGR cooler has failed...take the chance and see how long those two new components last. I wish you luck.
I have simply stated a way in which you can accomplish the flush and clean your cooling system with a failed EGR cooler, while minimizing the chances of causing further damage to your truck. I have not, nor would I, indicate that unplugging your EGR valve is a "temporary fix." Do NOT do it with that intention. If you were to drive your truck with a failed EGR cooler in place and have the EGR valve unplugged, the turbo may cause the valve to open and dump the coolant into the intake air stream. I never said that it wouldn't or that it couldn't. Using the 'high idle mod' and unplugging the EGR valve (and NOT running your truck down the road as part of the flush) can help you reach your goal of ensuring that your new oil cooler lives as long as possible.
I am done here, and have removed the e-mail subscription to this particular thread.