Ok heres something to hopefully get you going on your purchases. Enjoy!
- Low bulbs size - 9006 (NBS 2007.5+ are H11)
- High bulbs size - 9005 (High beams not really needed unless your out in country roads with them being on for awhile at a time)(NBS 2007.5+ are 9005 XS)
- Use HIRs if you can find them for your high beams on Classic Styles
- Pre '03 fog lamps - 880
- '03 and after classic fogs - 9145 (also known as H-10) (Yes 9005’s will fit but not recommended)
- 2007.5+ (NBS) fogs - These are H16 or 5202 and SOME places do make these sizes now. There is a way to make an 880 bulb work in there. PM me for details if you cant find an H16 / 5202.
- Most aftermarket sets are pretty much plug and play minus switching 2 wires on supplied harnesses for the polarity sensitive bulbs. To do so just use the supplied harness and cut in half and wire the red wire to the black wire and vice versa. Then make proper connections and seal. Sometimes you can also just reverse the harness plug where it plugs into the ballasts as some places make them not directional.
- 2007.5+ trucks all you need to do to install the bulbs is remove the battery on one side and air filter box on other. No need to remove entire light assembly as it is time consuming. Depending on your setup though you may have to do that regardless.
Other Brand Trucks
- If your truck has one bulb that acts as the high and low beam you have a couple of choices depending on if your company offers both. You may not have a choice. One is you can have BOTH your high and low beams in HID making them Bi-Xenon bulbs such as the Fords 9007. The other choice is to have the low in HID and the high as a halogen. The other choice is not have a high period. I personally like the halogen high as there is no wait time on it firing and you can flash if needed or turn it on instantaneous. Either way you choose it will be all wrapped up in one bulb base and connects just like any other would.
Aim Your Lights After Install
You dont need to blind everyone and you might as well make your HID's work at their optimum peak.
– 1) Pull the vehicle straight up to within 6” (15 cm) from the wall. With vehicle
in park and emergency brake set, turn on the LOW BEAMS and mark the center of each light with a masking tape “+” target on the wall.
2) a. Back the vehicle STRAIGHT back until you are about 25′ (7.5 m) from
the wall. Put the vehicle in park.
b. Using the vertical adjustment only, adjust the low beam.
c. The top of the beam pattern should be about 1-2″ (3-5 cm) below the horizontal line created by the targets. Horizontal adjustment is not usually required but the beam pattern created by each headlight should be down and to the right of each respective target.
3) IF THE HIGH BEAMS ARE AIMED INDEPENDENTLY OF THE LOW BEAMS: follow the same general procedure for low beam aiming, except that the beam centers will now fall on new target centers.
Daytime Running Lights For GM Trucks
- To disable your Daytime Running Lights pull the fuse in the fuse panel either in the engine compartment or in the cab. NBS may have two fuses to pull. If your type does not work this way then use the resistor type method to disable the whole auto headlights after dark ordeal. PM me for details on how this works. This way makes them fully manual.
4300k - Pure White. Little to no other colors at all. OEM.
5000k - White with Slight Hints of Blue
6000k – White with optimal bluish traces. Most popular and recommended
8000k - Blue / Sky Blue.
10000k - Dark Deep Blue.
12000k - Dark Purple / BlackLight Purple. Ricer look (no offense anyone
20000k - VERY Deep Blue / Gay
30000k - Bubble Gum Pink / Gayer
So basically 4300K is the brightest white your going to get like OEM Infiniti's ect. 5000K is slightly less lumens (light output) but has slight tint of bluish/purple and so on. As you go numerically higher in the Kelvin scale you are decreasing light output but adding more color. A good choice is the 4300K - 6000K. When using a 6000K you are losing 15% - 20% or 300 – 500 lumens output compared to a 4300K so anymore and you get the picture.
Wattage of Ballasts
- OEM wattage and most popular. Provides more than enough light for daily driving and superior to halogens. Halogens are rated at ~900 – 1200 lumens while a 35W 4300K HID is rated at ~3200 lumens.
- Will color wash bulb colors so that a 5000K or 6000K will indeed look like a 4300K. If lights not properly aligned it WILL blind other drivers coming towards you in traffic. Not recommended for on road use.
It is recommended by HID companies to use a wiring harness WITH a relay on all applications but is NOT REQUIRED unless you are getting a 55W kit and then its just a good idea. Most have used 35W kits with no relay and some have used them that need a relay so choice is yours. I would order without and get it if needed. I have never need one even on imports.
Yes the million dollar question...who sells good HID kits for a great price . Well this is the hard part as you get what you pay for. There is some good kits out there for sure but everyone has an opinion on certain companies. PM me or email
me and I will explain the best route to go for a reliable setup. All for under $60. I usually get a set from one place and use only their ballast and get bulbs from another place.
Companies To Stay AWAY From
This list will be updated as problems arise
- HQZ(something) from Ebay