2011 Center Console/Jump Seat SWAP DONE!! - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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2011 Center Console/Jump Seat SWAP DONE!!

So I found another member who was willing to trade their center console for my jump seat. Lucky for both of us we were only about 1.5 hours away from eachother. After many emails, texts, and phone calls we had a date set, and planned it all out. Used his brother in laws body shop to do the swap.
It turned out really well!
Thought I would post some photos, and give a little advice to those interested...

I was not there when he removed the console, so I do not know for sure, but I think there are 8 bolts that hold the console in.
2 under the cup holders (just pop up the cup holder trim)
2 on the sides, but below the cup holders, (behind cover plates)
2 on the sides next to the seat, (exposed)
2 in the rear bolting to the floor. (need to loosen seat bolts to get to them)

There are only 4 bolts that hold this in place.
2 at rear of seat, bolting to the floor (need to loosen seat bolts to get to them)
2 under the seat itself (need to remove 2 screws in front of seat, then pull tray out, be careful, and unplug the cigg lighter as your doing it, as there is not much slack)

So basically, loosen the two front bolts on both the driver and passenger seats, then completely remove the two rear bolts on both seats. This allows you to tip the seats up but not have to remove them to get to the console and jump seat bolts. You can probably get to the bolts without doing this, but it makes it alot easier. Then remove the two screws holding the seat down. Both the seat belt strap, and receiver are attached to these bolts, so they come too.

Then open the seat, and remove the two screws on the front.

The tray should now pull out. Its a little snug, but once you lift it a bit, you need to squeeze your hand under and pop off the 12v plug, its tight, so dont pull too much out until its unplugged. Then pull the tray out, below are the other two screws that hold the seat down. pop them out and the seat should come right out. (there is a plug next to the passenger seat, unplug that as well, you will need it for the console, but leave the smaller plug that goes under the jumpseat)

Now we have to pull the dash to get the fold down cupholder in.
Seems hard, pretty easy.
2 screws (torx) behind the cupholder,

then a few more on the panel itself. Start by pulling the 12v plate and 3.5 plug (and sync if you have it) out.

There are little tabs below each for a screw driver. They should pop out, behind each insert is a screw. Then pull the cover from below the steering wheel, there is a screw there as well. Now start pulling the center panel off, it is just push in inserts, so with an easy hand, it should pry off (i always went from the bottom up) You do not HAVE to remove the dash, simply pull it back a bit, but I found it easier to just pop it off, just a matter of pulling the plugs out.

Now its time to put the console in.
The only drawback I see on this side, is that the flow through air will not work when the console is in. I guess if you were reaally good at engineering you could make something happen, but I do not see how. The vents simply to not attach to the console parts unless you have the console. There is just no hole. I had hoped there would be just a cover over the vents and I would be able to pop it off and plug in the console, but not so. I would have had to cut into my vent tubing to make it work.
Now there are a few options. To make this work 100% like factory, you need to cut your carpet to attach the front bracket. See attached (stolen photo of another members)

I did not want to cut my carpet, so I opted not to install this support bracket. I am not sure if you NEEEEED it, but I do not see why. It is bolted down under the seats, and next to the seats, so its not going anywhere! Its solid. So I opted to leave it out. So under the jumpseat there were the two bolts that removed earlier, these are now used to put in the bracket for the console. Put that on. Then start to put the dash piece for the console on, this goes on the same way the old cupholder came off (minus the torx screws) Now its time to put the console in. It should just slide right in. Screw down on the sides next to the seat (into the bracket that you swapped under the jumpseat) and also the two bolts under the seat in the rear. Now you can put the seats together and tighten everything back up. Dont forget to re plug in the harness for the 12v in the console.
Your console is now done!


Now the truck that is getting the jump seat is a little harder
You will still have the missing carpet under the cupholders. The guy who swapped is planning on getting the ford non-carpet kit, so it should not matter. Also, you will have to cap off the vents that came from the console. We just used ventilation tape and taped the plugs off. Then install and assemble the same way it came out of the other truck.. and your done!

Took us about 2 1/2 hours to do the full swap, minus the 15 min i took him to pull the console the day before.

Hope this helps someone!

THANKS Steve!!
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 02:41 AM
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Looks good! I like the new jump seats. I replaced mine in my 02 with one from a 2012.

2002 F-350 CC, Shortbed, 4X4, rebuilt 7.3, EBV brake, 4" dual exhaust, B&D compressor wheel, head studs, Gear head performance 6 pos, Banks Big Head, built 4R100 w/triple disc torque conv, Shift kit, 204K, B&W Hitch and 5th wheel companion, Superlift Air Bags, 35 x 12.50 x 17 BFG KM2:

The veiws expressed are purely opinion. I in no way take responsibility for any actions or damage as a result of trying this at home.


2005 Chevy 7500 C-7/Allison, Service box off of my '93 Int

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 06-03-2012, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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