NEED some help with my a/c!?!?! - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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NEED some help with my a/c!?!?!

i recently tried to fix my a/c (was ice cold when i got it and now theres nothing. found a leak in the system. fixed it. now it holds freon but doesnt blow cold.

i have 175 on the high side and 5 on the low side. what should be the normal?

i am thinking there is a blockage somewhere. not sure.

ANY input would be greatly apprecaited. im flying blind here.

thanks

erik

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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ehopp88ss View Post
i recently tried to fix my a/c (was ice cold when i got it and now theres nothing. found a leak in the system. fixed it. now it holds freon but doesnt blow cold.

i have 175 on the high side and 5 on the low side. what should be the normal?

i am thinking there is a blockage somewhere. not sure.

ANY input would be greatly apprecaited. im flying blind here.

thanks

erik
do you have access to a set of HVAC gauges?

Knowing what your high and low side pressures are will help!

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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 04:18 AM Thread Starter
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ya. i think thats what my dad used. not too sure. it was 175 on the high side and 5 on the low side

Erik

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1988 Monte Carlo SS, 305 SBC, true dual 2.25" t-304 Stainless exhaust, T-Tops, custom red pryzmatique paint, 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subwoofers, 500 Watt Alpine amp, Alpine speakers inside, complete 2 year ground up restoration, 22K miles on rebuild
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 06:26 AM
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Actually the question is refrigerant. R12 or R134A?

R134A high side is temperature dependent and 150 to 300 low side is around 30.

If the system was opened to fix the leak, it is normal to replace the drier and then vacuum the air out. If it came with R134A there will be a label for the correct charge weight, if converted start with 70% of the R12 label as a limit.

Get an enthalopy table from the library, temp and humidity - inside and outside make a difference.

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-01-2010, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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would my system have an orifice tube or an expansion valve?

Erik

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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 08:12 AM
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Most were expansion valves on the old stuff that I see, I just drive the later ones. Chevy is mostly orifice tube and Ford changed a lot, Freightliner expansion valve and KW same

93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:19 PM
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We have orifice tubes, I just had mine replaced because it wasn't blowing cold. That was 3 weeks ago and it was ok, but now its blowing hot again. I think my compressor is shot.

Tom
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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 03:59 PM Thread Starter
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i see. well 4 months ago when i got mine it was blowing ice cold and now its hot. should i worry about the tube or the compressor? or should i replace them both?

also, do you know what the pressure's should be on a set of HVAC gauges?

Erik

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1988 Monte Carlo SS, 305 SBC, true dual 2.25" t-304 Stainless exhaust, T-Tops, custom red pryzmatique paint, 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subwoofers, 500 Watt Alpine amp, Alpine speakers inside, complete 2 year ground up restoration, 22K miles on rebuild
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 05:39 PM
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What about the blend door issues?

-Phil-
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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 06-02-2010, 06:16 PM Thread Starter
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well thats the thing. i know they are notorious for that but it still moves (slowly) but it moves. you can hear it slam. but i am thinking i may still take a look at that

Erik

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2004.5 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 QCLB, NV5600, 177K miles, 10000k HIDS, FASS 150, EDGE juice w/ attitude "HOT UNLOCK", VALAIR 650HP DD thanks to DAN'S DIESEL PERFORMANCE!

1988 Monte Carlo SS, 305 SBC, true dual 2.25" t-304 Stainless exhaust, T-Tops, custom red pryzmatique paint, 2 12" Alpine Type-R Subwoofers, 500 Watt Alpine amp, Alpine speakers inside, complete 2 year ground up restoration, 22K miles on rebuild
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