small thing's I can do... - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-16-2011, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up small thing's I can do...

to pick up a little more power from my 93 ram 350 5.9 12 valve cummins with what I have, I tow a 26ft enclosed trailer with race car, tools etc. I don't want to start swapping out a bunch of stuff like injectors and pumps and such, but am willing to change things like air cleaner box, exhaust,,,just thing's to make it pull the trailer a little easier but not kill the fuel mileage and driveability,,for your info, the truck is a extended cab dually with auto trans and has about 161.000 miles, and the trailer weight is around 12.000#-13.000#,,looking for suggestion's and brand names of the item's you used.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-18-2011, 07:25 PM
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Well if your not wanting to throw much in the way of parts at it. A different air cleaner box will not help much at all. On a totaly stock engine it is setup pretty good. Its when you start working on performance mods is when you need to change parts.

So exactly what are you willing to do to the engine???

Remember you have an auto trans. Anything you do in the way of performance mods will show up with converter slippage. The stock converter and fueling mods + towing do not play well together.

If your truck doesn't have the optional under bed trans cooler. I would recommend getting one installed.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-20-2011, 01:43 AM Thread Starter
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I just went from central Ohio to just south of Pittsburgh and back towing my 26ft enclosed and 2900# race car and supplies,,I figure around 10.000# or so, and the truck is a total puke in the rolling hills and inclines and struggles to keep up with traffic, I was following a buddy that simply had the pump turned up a bit and on a hill simply walk's away from me, like I said before,,I don't want to do anything that is going to harm the reliability of this truck, but it need's help,,I also just checked the fuel mileage in the hill's and got 11.8 down from a best of 21.3 unloaded and running interstate speed's. Oh yes I did check and it has the under bed cooler

Last edited by dartman366; 06-20-2011 at 01:49 AM.
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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 12:19 AM
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All right lets talk now.

11.8 in the hills of PA with that big flat surface behind you isn't bad for milage. But I know the hills were killing you.

#1 get some gages. A boost and pryo at least.

#2. A 4" exhaust system will help. Wheather it has a muffler is up to you. A 4" exhaust is good for a 100 degree drop in EGT's. EGT= exhaust gas temp. All mods are based on EGT. Cummins allowed max is 1250 degrees. Above that for any length of time can melt pistons.

#3. The stock intake air horn is very restrictive on our trucks. That is that sharp 90 degree elbow going into the top of the engine from the intercooler. There are a couple of different intake horns you could use. A 2nd gen 12 valve will work, it has a big ugly mounting bracket off the front side. A 2nd gen 24 valve air horn doesn't have the mounting bracket. You would need to fab a new IC tube for eather air horn. The third option is a set of cooltubz's. Those are custom made intake tubes.

BTW Any of the three intake air horns I mentenioned will drop EGt's around 50 degrees at cruise RPM's.

Do not use any air horn off a common rail engine.

Here is a pic of a 24 valve air horn on my truck.



#4. Remove your fuel pin and make sure the deepest side is towards the front of the engine.

After you get some gages post back with you base line readings and we can go from there.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 06-21-2011, 06:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Thanks, I start a new job on monday, it may take me a few weeks to get things rounded up but I will stay in contact thru this post, good info.
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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-07-2011, 01:30 AM Thread Starter
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Talking

just to bring things up to speed, I ordered and recieved the new 4" exhaust from the turbo back with a glass packed strait thru muffler, and a new governor spring to up the rpm range to 3200 rpm, also new intercooler boot's as I found mine were starting to weather crack, was told about a local guy that work's at a performance diesel shop that also does this at home on a limited basis, going to get in touch with him to discuss what need's to be done to get where I want to be, what thing's should I ask of him, and what should I beware of?.
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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-10-2011, 01:13 AM
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That 4" exhaust is a good start.

You still need gages. You need a boost gage and a pryometer. You need to know what the engine is doing before turning any screws for performance reasons.

I will give you a good example.

On my truck. I towed many times heavy and long distance. No gages. Stock fuel settings. After I installed my gages a couple of years after I bought the truck. I found on a heavy load on big hills I was hitting 1050 degrees on EGT's. Now think if I had turned any screws before gages. It would have melted pistons most likely.

Now with my current fuel settings, gages, air flow mods and so on. I can tow about anything on any size hill I run across.

Here is a PIC.



I hauled that cab from Laramie, WY back to Indiana. Coming out of Laramie there is a 5 mile long 5% grade. I hit the bottom at 75 MPH in 6th. I hit the top at 72 MPH in 6th with EGT's of 1100 degrees. Larmie is at 7100' that hill tops at 8400' if I remember right. That was with the CC set also.

If that guy your talking about wants to turn screws without gages. Walk away or ask for a written statement, signed, noterized. That says he will repair any and all engine damage done by his mods.

That 3200 spring. Just drop it in a desk drawer. Your not at a point it will help much if any.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

Last edited by Philip; 07-10-2011 at 01:16 AM.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-17-2011, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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talked to the guy yesterday and he told me to get a pyrometer and boost gage and bring it over after I get them installed so we can discuss where to go from there.
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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 12:41 AM
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Be care full on the pryo install. Do not install in the center of the manifold. There is a divider wall there. Here is a link with instructions.

http://www.pdrdiesel.com/oldsite/TechPyroInstall.htm

The easyest place to go for a boost connection is under the 90 degree intake air horn, on the side of the head is a 1/8" pipe plug. Just use that port.

If your going with an A pillar mount for the gages. Get the AutoMeter A pillar mount. The other one on the market is made by ProPods. That brand has the gages angled up to steeply.

Here is a pic of an AutoMeter setup. This pic is from driving position. I just choped half the pic off to post online. I am 6' tall. My truck has the captains chairs.


93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed

Last edited by Philip; 07-19-2011 at 12:49 AM.
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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 07-19-2011, 12:43 AM
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duplicate post.

93 W350 w/duals, fuel pin turned, 6X.018" injectors, 4" exhaust, 3" air intake horn, HX40/16, G56 /SBC Con-OFE, 307's axles' 2" skyjacker lift, B&W flatbed
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