I have a 1992 dodge d250, Cummins with intercooler with 158,000 mi., 2W drive,automatic. I don't haul much.
I have a very loud clunk in the rear of the truck,. It sounds clunk, clunk specially after a stop and worse after a stop while turning. Then it quits, i.e. hard to isolate the noise. I'm working alone and can't tell if t's u-joints or brakes . I think it's in the rear drums.
I'm going to replace the u- joints (they have a little play)
I'm trying to do a brake job. Is there a diagram for the rear brakes, i can't find it on FAQ's.
Once I get in there I'll report whats broken and may replace the 3/4 ton wheel cylinders with 1 Ton cylinders.
I GOT THE HUBS OFF AND THE REAR SHOES SHOW NO WEAR AT ALL.
Thank You for any information.
If there is no wear on the rear shoes and they haven't been changed in a while, they are probably not working. Whether this is due to air in the lines, frozen adjusters, frozen wheel cylinders, brake hardware, or anything else is not clear in the symptoms posted so far. Snap a photo of the brake assembly before you remove them so the orientation is know to reinstall or replace. Remove the brake shoes and hardward from the backing plate of the wheel end. With your index fingers, verify you can push the internal pistons back and forth inside the wheel cylinder. If you cannot, replace the wheel cylinder. Ensure you shoe adjuster, (starwheel) is also free. If it is not either clean and lube it or replace, (I always replace all brake hardware). One ton cylinders may or may be the same but regardless not much to be gained with this option.
Replace any universal joints with ANY play, or tightness at all without exception. Either symptom if run in that condition is an invite for breakdown. The "clunk" you are describing could be universal joints, slip you or spline wear, and if the truck has a "sure grip", limited slip differential the clutch plates binding from lack of the correct additive.
I am making the assumption you have full floating axles in that the rear wheel bearings were able to be "packed"; This is not normally done as the bearing share the rear axle lubricant from the gearset. There is a possibility of grease incompatibility when this is done but most oils and greases do not interfere with each other these days. When I rebuild a rear axle, I lightly smear a thin film of axle lubricant through the rollers or soak the bearing just prior to installing into the race so they don't run dry on initial run in.
When you get the rear brakes built back up on the truck, it would be best to have an assistant with a little bit of experience to help. With the drum installed onto the wheel end, adjust the brake shoes till a very light drag of the shoes is against the friction surface of the inside of the drum. Once both wheels are adjusted correctly, (with the light drag) bleed the system with the rear axle elevated if possible. Have someone pump the brake pedal with the engine running about 10 times and hold the pedal down securely. Starting at the rt. rear wheel, loosen bleeder fitting and have the brake pedal pushed to the floor without letting up until the bleeder is tightened. Repeat the proceedure two more times. Check fluid level in the master cylinder, top off, repeat sequence with lt. rear, then move to the rt. front, then left front. At conclusion you should have a solid pedal that is very near the top of it's stroke when the brakes are applied. The parking brake should pedal adjustment should be very near the top of it's stroke also.