Part number/tech info galore for your 12v - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:05 AM Thread Starter
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Part number/tech info galore for your 12v

93-88 2wd truck numbers:

centerlink DS1173

adjusting sleeve ES3124S

right outside tierod ES3122R

right inside tierod ES3123L

left inside tierod ES3123L

left outside tierod ES3122R

idler arm K7055

upper balljoint K778, K7082(HD)

lower balljoint K7025(must replace with K727 if it has 4 wrench flats and is screw in), K7025T(enhanced design), K7053T(HD)

upper control arm shaft kit K7036

upper control arm bushing kit K7006(2 required per truck), K7189(1 kit per truck, performance busings), K7104(eccentric bushing kit for more camber)

upper control arm bumpstop K7293

lower control arm bushing kit K7077(2 kits per truck), K7193(1 kit per truck, performance bushings)

HD lower control arm bushing kit K7065(2 kits per truck), K7192(1 kit per truck, performance bushings)

lower control arm bump stop K7282

sway bar to frame bushing K7096

sway bar link repair kit K7081

rear leaf spring bushing 1" O.D. x 1/2" I.D. SB266

rear leaf spring bushing 1 1/2 O.D. x 3/4" I.D. SB268

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Moog Part Numbers for 1 st gen 4 wd Trucks

88-93 4wd Part Numbers

upper ball joint K8194T

lower ball joint K8195T

bump stop K7282

lower kingpin K992(provides 1 1/2 degree of camber adjustment)

lower kingpin bearing kit K8832

upper kingpin bearing kit K6652

sway bar to frame bushing with 1 1/16 bar K7302
both sizes are thermoplastic bushings
sway bar to frame bushing with 1 3/16 bar K6172

swaybar link repair kit K7081

right tierod ES2010R

left tierod ES2010L

draglink DS914

adjuster tube DS1411S

front leaf spring bushing front and rear SB266

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:08 AM Thread Starter
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Fel Pro Engine gaskets and seals

head gasket 9332PT

head set w/o gasket HSU9332

gasket conversion set CS9332 (includes oil pan gasket)\

exhaust manifold gasket set MS92089

exhaust pipe gasket 60928

oil pan gasket OS34102

rear main seal and gasket set BS40633

valve cover gasket set VS50396R

pushrod cover gasket set PS50397R

valve stem seal SS70819-1

water outlet o-ring 35526

water pump gasket 35525

timing cover gasket TCS45902

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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Seasonal system Part Numbers 1 st gen

system specs R-12, refrigerant capacity 44 oz., oil capacity 4.6 oz for 93, 7.25 oz for 92-89

blower motor w/ A/C 35474

blower motor w/o A/C 35560

93-92 SDB709 type compresor w/ clutch S57562

91-89 C171 type compressor w/ clutch 57106

non-intercooled condenser 53298

intercooled condenser N/A

evaporator core 54108

expension valve/orifice tube 38849

intercooled fan clutch 36936

non-intercooled fan clutch 36705

filter drier/accumulator 33555

heater core w/ A/C 94619

heater core w/o A/C 94600

93-90 tensioner assembly 45844

89 idler pulley 45981

clutch cycling switch R-12 35800

clutch cycling switch R-134a 36677

coolant temp sensor 36425

low pressure cut out 35752

water outlet 85181

tranny coolers:

Ultra-Cool

light duty 53000
medium duty 53001
heavy duty 53002

Rapid-Cool

light duty 53005
medium duty 53006
heavy duty 53007

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:10 AM Thread Starter
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Modine Radiators, Condensors, Heater Cores

specifications
core size 25 3/4 x 21 x 2 1/4 (3row)
inlet header 2 5/8 x 21 1/4
outlet header 2 5/8 x 21 1/4
inlet connection 1 3/4 left
outlet connection 2 right
pin mount

93-92 radiator 2460

93 condenser 300034

92-90 condenser 300031

89 condenser 300025

heater core 702463, 702464

heater core specifications
702463: 8 x 6 1/2 x 2, inlet/outlet 5/8, in/out is beside core
702464: 8 x 6 1/2 x 2, inlet/outlet 5/8, in/out is above core

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:11 AM Thread Starter
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Carlson Brake Part Numbers

D250 w/ 12x2.5 drum

front

disc hardware kit H5516
pad shim kit 18063
caliper repair kit 41099
bleeder screw H9402
caliper piston 7535 for phenolic, 7501 for steel
caliper support spring H5315
inner bushing H5209

rear

drum hardware kit H7199
brake drum pro kit H2316
guide pin H4087
bolt sleeve H547
adjustment screw spring H430
self adjuster repair kits H2598 left, H2599 right
wheel cylinder repair kit 45004
hold down pin H1119
hold down spring H1164
adjuster lever H2049 left, H2048 right
cable guide/pivot H2093
cable H2104
lever return spring H2140 left, H2141 right
adjuster screw assembly H1534 left, H1535 right

D350 w/ 12x2.5 drum

front

disc hardware kit H5516
pad shim kit 18063
caliper repair kit 41099
bleeder screw H9402
caliper piston 7535 for phenolic, 7501 for steel
caliper support spring H5315
inner bushing H5209

rear

drum hardware kit H7199
brake drum pro kit H2316
guide pin H4087
bolt sleeve H547
adjustment screw spring H430
self adjuster repair kits H2598 left, H2599 right
wheel cylinder repair kit 45004 for 7/8" wc bore, 45002 for 1" wc bore
hold down pin H1119
hold down spring H1164
adjuster lever H2049 left, H2048 right
cable guide/pivot H2093
cable H2104
lever return spring H2140 left, H2141 right
adjuster screw assembly H1534 left, H1535 right

D350 w/ 12x3 drum

front

disc hardware kit H5516
pad shim kit 18063
caliper repair kit 41099
bleeder screw H9402
caliper piston 7535 for phenolic, 7501 for steel
caliper support spring H5315
inner bushing H5209

rear

drum hardware kit H7199
brake drum pro kit H2316
guide pin H4087
bolt sleeve H547
adjustment screw spring H430
self adjuster repair kits H2598 left, H2599 right
wheel cylinder repair kit 45002 for 1" wc bore, 45019 for 1 1/16" wc bore
hold down pin H1119
hold down spring H1164
adjuster lever H2049 left, H2048 right
cable guide/pivot H2093
cable H2104
lever return spring H2140 left, H2141 right
adjuster screw assembly H1534 left, H1535 right

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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Anchor industries motor mounts Part Numbers 1st gen 2 and 4 wd

2wd

front motor mount 2710

tranny mount N/A

4wd

front motor mount 2710

trans upper mount 2667

trans lower mount 2668

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:18 AM Thread Starter
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VE Pump Governor Spring Install

Taken from another site.

Installation of Governor Spring: Bosch #1-464-650-366 in the Bosch VE injection pump. The part should not be more than about 15-18$.

This mod can be done with the pump on the truck.
There is some disassembly of the VE pump required to complete this modification.
Keeping the internals of the VE pump free from dirt/dust/debris is extremely important.

The following instructions may not be 100% complete since most of us, including me, are not pump tech's.


1) Mark current pump timing locations on pump and gear cover, then loosen pump and let drop towards the drivers fender.
2) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm/lever on the pump.
3) Remove the TPS, AFC cover and diaphram/cone from inside.
4) Mark/note position of all the screws such as idle, full fuel, high idle etc.
5) Remove the idle screw, full fuel screw and high idle screw. This is needed to access the 4 main allen screws that hold the pump top on. You may get away with leaving one or two of the above screws in.
6) The allen screws on the back (engine side) of the pump top can be hard to reach but you MUST have a good grip on them even if you need to tap/hammer the allen key down into the allen heads. You really DON'T want to break one off..
7) Remove the 4 allen screws.
**NOTE**
The allen screw on the fender/front side of the pump (large 8mm) serves more than one purpose. It holds the throttle shaft in place, the spring(s) underneath such as the "breakover spring" and the head of this allen screw is were the TPS shaft rides, on the auto tranny equipped trucks. Once the screw is removed look down into the hole... you'll see a tiny slender black stem with a slot in it. This slot position is very important since it is the "index mark" for the throttle lever.
8) The allen screw noted comes off in the following order; allen screw, throttle lever arm, breakover spring, washer, (at this point you should see a flat plate with tick marks like a clock on it. Note the position of the slender black stem in relation to the tick marks. In most cases the slot in the stem will align with the second from bottom and second from top tick marks... kinda like 4:00 and 10:00 so to speak.)
Try to leave the lower spring, cup, mount in place. If you have to remove the entire assembly, pay attention to how the large spring is anchored on each end, and the relationship of the plastic "cup washers". Once you progress to removing the pump top, you will loose some fuel from inside the pump so have a drip pan below to catch the dribbles.
9) VERY CAREFULLY lift the pump top upward about 1 1/2" while looking at the back (firewall end)engine corner inside. You should see a slotted piece of metal with a what looks like a tophat w/tiny spring IN the slot (careful this puppy can jump out on you once you've removed the governor spring attached to it and, an extra pair of hands makes this part easier). On the inside END of the tophat is the one end of the gov. spring. Using forceps or tiny needle nose pliers, carefully unhook the spring from the end of the tophat.
10) Turn pump top over and remove the other end of the gov. spring from under the pump top. At this point we need to go back to the "guide pin" that pops out inside the AFC housing... you had to push it into it's hole to get the diaphram out.... what you need to do, before putting the top of the pump back on is wiggle the little lever on the inside of the pump to push the guide pin back out into the diaphram hole. This helped me get the top of the pump back on without getting "hung up". Do what works for you.
11) Attach one end of the new gov spring to the underside of the pump top, and very carefully attach the other end to the same spot on the tophat. (don't worry, you can't put the spring in the wrong place, just be slow and careful.) Turn the pump top over and roughly set the shaft with the index slot in it.... that assures the internal lever with the spring is in the right location for proper rotation.
12) Lower the pump top back down in place, shifting it slightly to seat it in place.
13) Check your index marks as you begin the reverse process of assembly. (Most mistakes are done here so take your time)
14) Tighten the allen screws to "just right ft/lbs torque" (sorry I don't have torque specs for this but you should be able to tighten by feel.)
15) Reverse the proccess of dissasembly and tighten as you go.
16) Once all the screws, AFC, housing,TPS, etc are in place, return pump to timing marks you made on the pump body/gear case and tighten it down. Here you'll have to get as close as possible to original screw positions for your idle, high idle, full fuel etc.
When you've gone over everything 3 or 4 times to make sure you've done everything, you're ready to try a start up and idle.
**NOTE** Remove the air inlet tube from the turbo inlet and move to the side. Have an emergency board or whatever to cover the turbo inlet in case of runaway condition. BTW, using your hand could qualify you for the handicap award and being named 3 finger Dave.
A second set of hands helps here too, while you activate the manual shutdown lever (in case of runaway) your help can cover the front of the turbo to starve the engine of air)

17) Start the truck..... hope it keeps running. It may need several tries due to fuel loss from removing the pump top.
It should pretty much start right up.. it may stumble and clear up OR, you'll have to re-prime using the lift pump handle or plugging the filler spout with a rag and shooting compressed air in with a nozzle/air hose to force fuel thru to the pump. (If you do it this way, make sure someone is watching the low pressure bleed screw on the side of the block and tighten it when you get a steady stream of fuel from it.)

If it starts with some throttle but will not remain running at idle, it mat be necessary to re-index the throttle lever shaft to the index mark.

At this point it should be running. Try 'burping' the throttle a few times. Make sure that the engine returns to idle promptly as it did before the spring change. If it lingers at higher RPM and slowly drops down, take that as a sign of being close to runaway condition. Back out the full fuel screw 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn, restart and try again. I also recommend running your high idle screw in a fair bit to make sure you can "work up to" you intended high idle setting and avoid RPM flare. You should be able to reset your low idle, full fuel, etc without too much trouble.

Take a test drive at this point and watch your EGT's, idle, etc.

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:27 AM Thread Starter
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Compressor Upgrade and Nitrous Install

Article posted on Dieselpowermag.com

1st part
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...ade/index.html

2nd Part
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...sor_wheel.html

3rd Part
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/d...ade/page2.html

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-23-2008, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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Installing a Pyro and Boost Guage

Article from Dieselpowermag.com

Part 1
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0...all/index.html

Part 2
http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/0...arts_list.html

Truck: 1990 Ford F-250 5.0 EFI, 4x4 , Longbed, 5 speed w/ Hurst shifter, K&N FIPK, Line-X Bed liner, Ford Racing Valve Covers, 2 1/2 in exhaust w/ 4 inch SS tips, A pillar pod filled with Autometer Pro Comp Ultra Lites , Custom switch box w/ 5 switch panel, and more to come

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