Join Date: Mar 2007
Thanked 134 Times in 130 Posts
I have seen a couple of articals and a rebuild site for hydroboost.
Both used late 90's GM hydroboost and made the changes to the pushrod pivot bolt and the firewall spacing so that spares are bolt on. Use the matching MC. The Tee in the return line is straight from the booster and bent from the steering box or a 2 inlet resivore. Filter or cooler on the steering box line, restriction on the hydroboost return line may cause dragging brakes.
Brake application will lower the power steering assist.
I picked up a set from a '97 Chev 3/4 ton that had all the upgrades but have not installed yet.
Rockauto has an online catalog for prices, if used is not your style. Mine was $23.40 from a u-pull.
I think that flat rate is about .4 R&R for a set, if the pivot bolt and spacer are done and you don't have to hunt tools - a couple of hours.
Make a couple of shirtboard patterns face of the hydroboost and face of vacuum booster, match the centers and figure the mounting so that it will not be a problem to R&R. I think that I will pull the brake arm and clean and grease the bushing and tap the pivot pin hole for a shoulder bolt with a jamb nut.
I don't know why they picked a GM style, unless it was price - Last GM rebuilt hydroboost was $124 on the counter and the last Dodge was $429 and took 3 weeks to show up.
The hydroboost custom builder is more money and advertises for hotrod builders but the web site was better than the FSM for troubleshooting.
Thirty years ago rebuild parts were everywhere for hydroboost, now you have to have the seal # to get the seal that dumps PS fluid down the firewall. Don't take the accumulater off.
With the vacuum booster gone a little electric vacuum pump should do the job for the HVAC.
93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd
Last edited by keydl; 04-13-2009 at 05:45 AM.