A few newbie questions, looking at a Chev with 5.9 - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-28-2010, 06:37 PM Thread Starter
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A few newbie questions, looking at a Chev with 5.9

I will be looking at a 95 Chev 2500 with a 5.9l and auto trans swapped from a 93 Dodge pickup. What transmission was used in 93? Any other pointers on what to look for? What are the common issues with this engine/trans? What kind of mpg would be realistic? (i dont know what gears are in the rear end, maybe 3.73s or 4.10s ? ) Thanks

1999 F250 (2/98), 7.3L, 4x4, ZF6, Warn hubs, bypass coolant filter, bypass oil filter, Isspro gauges, 203t-stat & billet housing, EBPV disconnected, Ford severe duty air filter, zoodad, heater shut off, '08 diff cover, 4" MBRP straight pipe, DP F6 tuner, leveled.

2000 F250, 7.3L, 4x4, Auto, XLT Lariat

1993 Dodge 3/4 ton, 4x4, 5-sp, 5.9L Cummins

1981 Isuzu 4x4 pickup diesel project

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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 01:59 AM
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The stock dodge autos were the good ole 727 from 89-91.5, and from 91.5 -1993 it was the A-518, which is a 727 with an overdrive unit bolted to the back. Their weak points are non-lockup converters, which from the factory were pretty loose, poor cooling, and weak hydrolics, as well as a weak 3rd/reverse piston seal. The mods I would do are a converter, from Goerend if you can afford it, a valvebody (make sure the internal pressure does not exceed 110 psi) and the biggest aftermarket cooler you can fit behind the grill. Also, a tranny temperature gauge would be a good idea.

For the engine, make sure you TAB THE KILLER DOWEL PIN AS SOON AS YOU GET IT HOME!!!!!! other than that they are bullet proof.

1992 W250-P-pump and some extra air, gone, but not forgotten.

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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old 01-29-2010, 03:48 AM
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One of Dodges 'cures' for the heat generated by the non lockup converter is a thermostaticaly controlled cooler in front of the left rear wheel. Mine is plumbed first so when you hear the fan the trans is warm.

It is pretty well shielded from road trash and over cooling, the last in the cooling circuit is the engine heat exchanger that cools or warms the trans fluid to engine coolant temperature. The little cooler in front of the radiator is small compaired to the others.

I think that your Chev has even less room behind the grill than Dodge, so make sure the heat exchanger came with the transplant, it is under the exhaust manifold, then look for about 400 square inches of air exchanger where ever it will fit. The stock line size is 1/2, hydraulic hoses are competitive in price with steel tube.

A pair of transmission coolers off a 13 speed are about the right size and have the right inside size, any electrical radiator fan is good and the clamp on thermostats work as well as any.

A filter is a good thing, either full flow or bypass ( I prefer bypass ) tapped off the line or govenor ports.

If your foot is heavy 16 mpg , drive careful and you may see 24, mine gets 17 with a camper or equipment trailer on and 20 with a topper

You want to look at the quality of the repower, rats nest for electrical?

The engine? killer dowel pin ( oil leak upper right of the timing case - $2k ), head gasket leak at the thermostate housing and the vibration dampner. If it has been hot the main seals will leak, look at the waterpump weep hole with a mirror esp if there is coolant sign over the thermostate
The trans? smooth shifting, shifts into OD and kicks down ( the throttle position sensor controls the OD shift is $250 )-there are other ways to shift the OD

The rest is pretty much universal except if you can get a test run with a loaded tandem trailer to prove the transmission it would be worth clamping the temp guage sensor bulb on the front trans cooler line with a hose clamp to see if it gets hot. ( converter, slipping clutches, slipping band, noise )

93 Dodge /CTD, IC, 518, club cab LE, BHAF, KDP fixed, kelderman air ride
81 Isuzu /C223na, 5spd
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