Buying a dodge? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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Buying a dodge?

Hey, I was looking into buying a 24v cummins... I am still torn between the ford 6.0l and the 24v though. I just want to know a few things bout dodges...

What is the MPG in a regular cab long bed 4x4 2500/3500 24v cummins?
What does maintenance cost? (oil changes, etc.)
What are common problems that could potentially cost alot of money? I can fix a few things myself, I am an entry level mechanic... don't have all that experience just yet though. I don't wanna get into something I won't be able drive. Just wanna make sure I make the right decision.

Thanks for your input.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 08:51 PM
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You'll want to look to see if its has a 53 block. Also its not if the vp44 will die but when, so you'll want to upgrade the lift pump immediately to a fass or air dog. Dodge trannies suck if an auto. Lastly front suspension will most likely need fixing, ball joints, track bar, ect.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-21-2012, 10:07 PM Thread Starter
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Okay.. elaborate on the 53 block for me?

And how much is a lift pump? and also, how much work does that require? And still how many mpg does it get?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 01:13 AM
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There is a known casting problem with the block in the 98.5-02 dodges. They have been known to crack on the passenger side above the heat exchanger. Best fix is a new block. Now for fuel. Vp44 is the injection pump keeping it fueled with the correct amount is key to it living longer. Cheap way would be a raptor for a couple hundred or the air dog 150 for around 450. As for mileage I see average 19 give or take a lot depending on my foot.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 02:42 AM
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https://www.thedieselgarage.com/forum...ad.php?t=78884 Some reading material for 53 cast blocks.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 04:52 PM
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well heres a insight for the 6.0 for ya my buddys 06 has been in the shop more than hes driven it. been there for 4 months and over 6k in repair bills. my honest opinion go with a cummins you cant beat it. besides there easy to get power out of not to mention way cheaper. just for some stage 1 injectors for 6.0 your looking anywhere from 3.5k-5k depending where you get them. for that price you could put some bad twins on a cummins. i get 23mpg out of my lifted cummins i love it i had a 2004 6.0.....ill never own one agian.....and if you ever have to go have work done at a dealer they will tell you sorry cant fix it. they have washed there hands of the 6.0 and i did too. speaking of that my buddys 6.0 is looking at a new trans at only 90k miles theres 6000 right there lol GET A CUMMINS and make it a 5 or 6 speed autos are junk unless wildly built even for moderate power upgrades took me 4 autos to figure out that now got a 5 speed.

2001 QC/LB 4x4,5speed,built motor,60mm hx40,50hp injectors,edge comp drag,airdog 200,homemade intake,4.5" lift,35''s,4.56's,limo tint and a thirst for fuel
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 01:35 PM
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Short answer, CUMMINS.

Don't have to remove engine or body to replace the headgasket, like you do with the 6.0L trucks.

My '99 3500 got 16.5 with 4.10 gears and 5spd with the Edge Juice fueling box on 5x5.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-18-2012, 11:05 AM
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16.5 aint bad, im runnin the HO pistons, SO vp44 ,50hp injectors, CAI, 5inch exhaust and edge comp drag i run on level 1x2 and i get 21-23mpg 4.56s and 35s

2001 QC/LB 4x4,5speed,built motor,60mm hx40,50hp injectors,edge comp drag,airdog 200,homemade intake,4.5" lift,35''s,4.56's,limo tint and a thirst for fuel
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-19-2012, 04:27 AM
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Get a Cummings with a hand shaker. You have fewer problems.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 05-11-2012, 12:58 AM
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I am almost afraid to post here. Is everyone on here a hotrodder? I have 2001 5.9 auto, 3.55 gears upgraded lift pump, trans temp and boost guages all other stock. 18 mpg empty, 12.5 mpg towing 12,500 trailer. 50k miles towing. No repairs on the drive train. Live 1 mile down a rough dirt road and did replace ball joints and pitman arm at 125,000. Water pump, idler and belt at 125k as preventative maint. Partner and I went to Alaska last year. He had a 94 ford 6.0 and a comparable trailer (he was afraid to weigh it) I consistently got 20% better milage. He could sprint up the big hills. I drop into 1st if the trans starts to heat in 2nd. Go to the 94 6.0 section and read all the problems you could have. It is a horror story.
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