Upper/Lower ball joints - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Upper/Lower ball joints

I'm trying to remove the upper and lower ball joints on my 2002 dodge. I pounded on them for an hour didn't budge. going to try some heat tomorrow. Ball joints are in the axle tube not the knuckle like the older dodges. also the hub bearing is rusted in to the knuckle going to heat that up too.
If anybody has any suggestions that would be great.

2002 dodge 2500 4x4
Edge Juice W/Attitude
Hot Rod VP-44 stage 2
200 H.P. Injectors
HX-40 turbo(Silencer Ring MIA)/ BHAF
FASS 150/150
billet trans/TC 1600 stall (rebuilt myself) parts supplied by DUNERITETORQUECONVERTERS
2" leveling front kit
TRUCK SOLD

Two 84 chevy 1 1/2 ton pickups 6.2L Diesel (stock)
Turbo400, NP208 transfer case, Dana 60 front, GM 14 bolt rear W/Locker
89 Chevy K-5 Blazer 350/700r4/np241/gm10bolt rear dana44 front
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 01:01 AM
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Touch uhm off, have lots of water to avoid catching your truck on fire.. They are horrible usually.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-30-2008, 08:02 PM
 
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I just got done going through this. IT SUCKS!!! Ended up buying two new hub bearings. Take a cold chisel and put it between the bearing and the knuckle at the bolt hole areas and hit it hard on all 4 corners. at the same time have two 1/2" x 1" bolts and nuts between the u-joint yoke and the end of the axle tube to help push the bearing out. and heat the crap out of it and lots of PB blaster or WD. you will have to do some repairing of the backing plate from the chisel but not a big deal.
As far as the ball joints, use a good ball joint tool and heat the area around them. while the force from the tool is on them, hit the area around the joint to help it POP out.
hope this helps
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 01:50 AM
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I just did them on my truck. To get the wheel bearings out, use a socket and extension against the axle yoke to push on the bolts as you turn the steering wheel. This is best done with a helper. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and let it soak. I like a brand called Free-All. For the ball joints I got a press from the auto parts store. In my area Advance Auto Parts and Autozone both have tools you get borrow with a deposit. Again use plenty of penetrating fluid. Being from MI you may have to heat them when you have pressure on them.

I've attached a procedure someone else posted. Not sure of the author but it greatly helped me. If the author reads this!!! Thanks for a great writeup.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf How to replace ball joints.pdf (1.35 MB, 757 views)

2001.5 Ram 2500 Quad Cab, HO, 6 speed, 4.10's, RV275 injectors, Quadzilla XZT+, AFE 4" Exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges (EGT, FP, Boost), K&N Air Filter, Raptor 100 Fuel Pump, 1/2" line with AN fittings to the factory fuel filter, 6AN fittings from fuel filter to injection pump.

Last edited by dave2001; 12-31-2008 at 01:59 AM. Reason: Adding to original post
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 06:13 PM
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I did all my ball joints last summer, and well everything got replaced, bearings/hub, dust shield, and ball joints. My bearings were stuck, so we built one of those hammers, can't remember what it was called, but it bolts to the hub and has a weight that slides, and ya slam it against the end. But we build one out of a flat piece of metal, a piece of rod, and a harmonic balancer off of a John Deere 4455. We broke the balancer and still didn't have the bearings moved, so ended up soaking them and then beating on them with a hammer and chisel, they finally came off. But we did go to the local autoparts store and borrowed one of the ball joint tools to press them in and out with, which this also didn't fit my ball joints correctly, so we had to rig it. All in all it was a time of learning. I also had to put a seal in the front axle, that was a load of fun. My advice is heat, some kinda of penetrating fluid, and a good hammer and chisel. Best of luck

02 Dodge Ram CTD, 6 spd., HMR Street Drag Clutch, Raptor 150, Edge Drag Comp, Smarty, Injectors, aFe air intake, 2 in leveling kit, 4 in exhaust, and 3 guages-Fuel Pressure, Boost, and EGT's.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-31-2008, 11:32 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys really help full I got the right side ball joints and new ones in on the right side, I cut the old ones out inorder to remove knuckle(thought it might be easier to remove hub with it off the truck. then I went and bought a ball joint press from performamce cost me $140. I'll try removing the HUB with the steering socket idea. The other knuckle I think I'll just take to performance machine shop and have them mess with that one its already off. I have too replace the whole front end ball joints upper/lower both sides, hub bearing both sides and tierod/drag link everything went at the same time. Just did track bar 6 months ago.

2002 dodge 2500 4x4
Edge Juice W/Attitude
Hot Rod VP-44 stage 2
200 H.P. Injectors
HX-40 turbo(Silencer Ring MIA)/ BHAF
FASS 150/150
billet trans/TC 1600 stall (rebuilt myself) parts supplied by DUNERITETORQUECONVERTERS
2" leveling front kit
TRUCK SOLD

Two 84 chevy 1 1/2 ton pickups 6.2L Diesel (stock)
Turbo400, NP208 transfer case, Dana 60 front, GM 14 bolt rear W/Locker
89 Chevy K-5 Blazer 350/700r4/np241/gm10bolt rear dana44 front
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-01-2009, 12:52 AM
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My recomendation for the steering socket trick, is use some pieces you do not care about. I chewed up the back of one socket because I used wobble extensions. This gives you some flexability to get a solid spot for applying pressure. Try to work your way from bolt to bolt. Eventually it popped loose. This really works better with two people.
I took out the upper ball joint first. None of the adapters in the kit seemed to be what I needed. So I cut a 1" long piece of pipe to slide up on the ball joint shaft. This along with the kit pieces removed the upper joint.
I could not get the c clamp in the position shown in the pictures I attached. So I went down thru the upper ball join hole. While the alignment was not perfect, it was better than the way shown in the pics.
The other thing I felt that really helped was a 3/4" breaker bar(More mass & less flex than 1/2"). I bought a cheap one from our local Harbor Freight ($20). It worked flawlessly and is still in one piece.
On the passenger side I put the ball joint under pressure (thought the threads would strip on the clamp). Then I hit the area around the ball jointwith a hammer and it popped. This is where you may need the hammer and heat.
I let the penetrating fluid work overnight. I think that helped also.
I put anti-seize on everything when I put it back together. The alignment shop said they do the same thing with anti-seize.
Also my Moog joint instructions said to put the grease fitting facing inward. Which didn't make much sense to me, so I offset mine so I could get a grease gun past the knuckle and onto the fitting.

2001.5 Ram 2500 Quad Cab, HO, 6 speed, 4.10's, RV275 injectors, Quadzilla XZT+, AFE 4" Exhaust, ISSPRO Gauges (EGT, FP, Boost), K&N Air Filter, Raptor 100 Fuel Pump, 1/2" line with AN fittings to the factory fuel filter, 6AN fittings from fuel filter to injection pump.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 01:15 PM
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not to hyjack this thread but my passenger side needs new ball joints, and was wondering if they make the greaseable ones yet?

2006 Chevy Duramax LBZ 4x4 2500 Regular Cab. 5inch exhaust,everything else is Bone Stock for now............................... SOLD......2001 Dodge 2500 4x4 Regular Cab Cummins. Ats intake horn,Ats Exhaust Manifold, AFE stage II intake, Edge Comp, Superchip,FASS 95,Luk clutch(450),boost elbow,5in turbo back stait piped. silincer ring lost, 2in levelingkit 305/70/16 on 16-10.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 03:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave2001 View Post
I just did them on my truck. To get the wheel bearings out, use a socket and extension against the axle yoke to push on the bolts as you turn the steering wheel. This is best done with a helper. Use plenty of penetrating fluid and let it soak. I like a brand called Free-All. For the ball joints I got a press from the auto parts store. In my area Advance Auto Parts and Autozone both have tools you get borrow with a deposit. Again use plenty of penetrating fluid. Being from MI you may have to heat them when you have pressure on them.

I've attached a procedure someone else posted. Not sure of the author but it greatly helped me. If the author reads this!!! Thanks for a great writeup.
I got to admit that is a killer write up and nice to see in a PDF form... I give it a 5 star rating myself!

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins & 1996 Dodge Ram 5.9L Gasser
116K Miles On My VP44 - 4 Years of 2 Cycle Oil Diet! - Mixed at 128:1 Ratio - 25.3 MPG maxed out!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-03-2009, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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yes great thread dave2001 that helped alot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes they do make the greasable ball joints, I bought mine at performance (MOOG) for $80 a piece(came with LIFETIME WARRANTY) I'm almost done with the whole project need 2 new bolts for hub bearing on left side and then I can finish, right side is done. then I'll do an alignment. The old ball joints were stuck so bad that even after getting to axle red hot I still bent the ball joint press. at least its almost done. I put anti sieze on ball joints and hub so hopefully when they wear out again they come out easy?!?!!!!

2002 dodge 2500 4x4
Edge Juice W/Attitude
Hot Rod VP-44 stage 2
200 H.P. Injectors
HX-40 turbo(Silencer Ring MIA)/ BHAF
FASS 150/150
billet trans/TC 1600 stall (rebuilt myself) parts supplied by DUNERITETORQUECONVERTERS
2" leveling front kit
TRUCK SOLD

Two 84 chevy 1 1/2 ton pickups 6.2L Diesel (stock)
Turbo400, NP208 transfer case, Dana 60 front, GM 14 bolt rear W/Locker
89 Chevy K-5 Blazer 350/700r4/np241/gm10bolt rear dana44 front
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