pusher pump ? - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2006, 07:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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pusher pump ?

ok guys been changing alot of transfer and main injecthion pumps on the 99-2002 dodges. so is it better to mount a pusher pump befor the stock transfer pump or after the filter housing between the filter and main pump,and what are you guys useing? i have put 2 bullydog big fuel kits on and dont like them. both are loud and one has already failed.:thanks:
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-12-2006, 11:00 PM
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I personally run a FASS, but there are lots of others that you can run for a lot less money. You can use a Carter or a Holley pusher pump and do just fine. The FASS just comes with some added extra bonuses. If you do install a different lift pump, you will want to put it back closer to the tank. Pumps work better pushing than they do pulling, so putting it closer to the source eases the load on the pump. That is actually dodge's solution, if you go in to have your LP replaced they install a new one that is relocated in the tank.

Anyways, a holley blue or black pump should fix any of your problems, and I think you can pick one up for about $150. The FASS is a little noisey outside the truck, but inside, I can't even hear it. so there are a couple of options for you.
Sean

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2006, 01:52 PM
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i have heard some poeple haveing problem with the new kit from dodge. you can get a rottin apple in every bunch!

Randy
05 Dodge str8 pipe, smarty jr, afe, airbags, and pacbrake.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-13-2006, 07:12 PM
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Definately don't put the pump after the filter...that is certain death for your VP44 as those pumps tend to produce little chips of metal...Gary on TDR proved that with his Frantz filter...

I would mount a pump in the OE location and then get a relocation kit for the second one...then using a relay, tap into the OE LP harness for a relay trigger and run the extra pump off the battery.

But I also run a FASS...but there are several other kits out there to that are similar...just got to research it and decide what's best for you...

steved

SOLD - 2004.5 2500 Ram, 600CTD, NV5600, 4.10s, FASS'd, Dynatrac Free-Spin Kit, Gulf Coast 0-1 bypass, Intake and Exhaust.

New - 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD, 6.0L, 6spd auto, 4wd, 3.73s..
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 05:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhead

i have heard some poeple haveing problem with the new kit from dodge. you can get a rottin apple in every bunch!
thats good to know, I hadn't heard that yet, however, when I saw the price of those, and heard you had to drop the tank, I said well its time to buy a FASS I guess.
Sean

2000 2500 reg. cab 4x4 auto 577hp
09 6.7L QC LB stick, 4x4.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 01:34 PM
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IMO,the final word in pumps is Steve Opie's engine driven kit or a RASP setup.It works in tandem with your factory pump,giving you a backup in the rare event a pump belt breaks.It will be the last pump you buy,and no electric pump will live that long,from what ive seen,most aftermarket electric setups dont outlive the stock transfer pumps.

2000 Dodge CTD 2500 4x4,Qcab SWB, 4.10 LSD,PDR cam,PDR twins,DonM 6,Edge Drag Comp,RASP fuel system,DTT trans,Blizzard 810,Sidewing plow,Trynex Vp8000,Sunnybrook 3310
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John DiMartino
IMO,the final word in pumps is Steve Opie's engine driven kit or a RASP setup.It works in tandem with your factory pump,giving you a backup in the rare event a pump belt breaks.It will be the last pump you buy,and no electric pump will live that long,from what ive seen,most aftermarket electric setups dont outlive the stock transfer pumps.

The RASP is not entirely without faults...I have read about several that have blown seals...having a backup does you no good if the RASP is leaking.

If I were to do it over again, I would SERIOUSLY consider the cam/mechanical LP conversion. It was sorta new on the market a year ago when I bought the FASS...and the GPD kit wasn't even thought of at that time. The cam conversion is about $700 IIRC...

steved

SOLD - 2004.5 2500 Ram, 600CTD, NV5600, 4.10s, FASS'd, Dynatrac Free-Spin Kit, Gulf Coast 0-1 bypass, Intake and Exhaust.

New - 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD, 6.0L, 6spd auto, 4wd, 3.73s..
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved
The RASP is not entirely without faults...I have read about several that have blown seals...having a backup does you no good if the RASP is leaking.

If I were to do it over again, I would SERIOUSLY consider the cam/mechanical LP conversion. It was sorta new on the market a year ago when I bought the FASS...and the GPD kit wasn't even thought of at that time. The cam conversion is about $700 IIRC...

steved
Nothing is perfect,but with what is out there it is the best setup,IMO. The cam swap is way to labor intensive,and involved.I have yet to hear of anyone with a leaking RASP pump,but if mine leaked 1 pair of vise grips on the inlet hose to the pump,and pull the belt,and it would stop the leak and allow you to get wherever you want.I remember when installing the setup it said to not overtighten the belt ,Im sure an over tight belt may contribute to leaks as well.

2000 Dodge CTD 2500 4x4,Qcab SWB, 4.10 LSD,PDR cam,PDR twins,DonM 6,Edge Drag Comp,RASP fuel system,DTT trans,Blizzard 810,Sidewing plow,Trynex Vp8000,Sunnybrook 3310
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-17-2006, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstockton
thats good to know, I hadn't heard that yet, however, when I saw the price of those, and heard you had to drop the tank, I said well its time to buy a FASS I guess.
Sean
yeah the tank has to come out it cost around 450-500 just for the kit. something about get the float in right and it loseing prime. i can't remember:shrug: just have to pull the tank turn me away.i put stock pump back on for now. 30 min and i was done back on the road.

Randy
05 Dodge str8 pipe, smarty jr, afe, airbags, and pacbrake.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-21-2006, 02:42 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jarhead
yeah the tank has to come out it cost around 450-500 just for the kit. something about get the float in right and it loseing prime. i can't remember:shrug: just have to pull the tank turn me away.i put stock pump back on for now. 30 min and i was done back on the road.




Your back on the road but you will have this same problem again and another pump purchase so you need to just get a FASS and be done with it. Just my .02
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