Do-It-Yourself - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Do-It-Yourself

I just bought my first CTD and I don't know too much about them besides what I read here in the forums. I would like to do some simple work on the truck myself not only to save money but also to become more familiar with the engine. I think changing the oil could be a job that I can handle. I was just wondering if someone could help with a step by step process so I don't screw anything up. Are there any specialized tools that I will need? I would also like to change the fuel filter while i'm at it. What type of oil are you guys running and what type of fuel filters is everyone using?? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 05:58 PM
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hope this helps

Hi the oil and fuel filter are very simple to change. If you go to DodgeRAM.org there is some useful information there. Just look under the diesel info. For the filters I only use fleetguard, I wouldnt use anything else as there has been documented failures with other brands. I also use fleetguard fuel filters. I buy them online at Geno's Garage .com they have pretty much anything you need for basic maintanence at great prices. With the fuel filter it is not a big deal but.... You need to make sure you completely refill it with frsh fuel. wich means let it soak up the fuel and then fil and repeat etc... until full. Then bump your starter without staring the engine. This will run the lift pump and push fuel into the lines. Do this about 3 times to be sure then go ahead and crank it up. It might run a little rough for a few minutes. Also make sure you dont get any debris in there even really small stuff. It could get in your fuel lines and starve one of your pumps which sux. trust me. Also check your serpentine belt Sometimes those can be pretty badly worn, it is super simple to replace. And when you do get a goodyear gatorback belt. They are 30 bucks at auto zone and they eliminate the squeak. And they are the best belts out there. Also I pasted A how to oil change for ya. Good luck hope this helps.









The maintenance schedule in the owners manual indicates the oil and filter should be changed at:

1989-1998 12 valve engines - 6000 mile intervals for normal duty, 3000 miles for severe duty
1998-2002 24 valve engines - 7500 mile intervals for normal duty, 3750 miles for severe duty
Tools you will need:

Large Screwdriver
1/2" ratchet wrench with long drive extension
3/8" ratchet wrench with 3" drive extension
Strap wrench
plastic bag
rag
ladder
bucket, pan, funnel, and several old oil jugs

Supplies you will need:
11 quarts of SAE 15W40 diesel oil with a dual rating of at least CF4 and at least SG.
Oil filter of your choice (choose wisely grasshopper - cheap filters are not the best idea here)
24 Valve - Mopar 5016547AC, Fleetguard LF3959 or LF3894, Cummins 3937211
12 Valve - 24V filters plus Cummins 3865405 or 3942470, Fleetguard LF3349 or LF3552
Other filters from Fram, Wix, STP, NAPA, AMSOIL, etc should be used with caution. There have been documented failures of Fram and Wix filters. YMMV!


OK, Let's change some oil!

1. Run the engine enough to warm and circulate the oil, but not long enough top make the oil too hot to handle.

2. Park the truck safely , set the parking brake, and spread a ground sheet just behind the left front wheel and under the truck.
3. Place a large bucket (3 gal minimum!) under the drain plug.
4.
Loosen the drain plug with a 3/8" ratchet wrench and 3" extension. The drive nose of the extension fits into a recess in the drain plug.
5.
When the plug is loosened, drain slots in the oil pan will allow the oil to flow around the plug threads. Let the oil drain while you go to the engine top.
6. Use the screwdriver to loosen the band clamps on both ends of the intake hose, then remove the hose and set it aside.
7. Slip the strap wrench under the filter bottom and slide it up to the top of the filter. Insert the long 1/2" drive extension into the end of the wrench and wind up the slack. You will need to be turning the filter clockwise as looking down from the top of the engine. Now slide the wrench and adjust the ratchet handle to the position shown on the left when the strap is tightened, and loosen the filter enough to allow removal by hand.
NOTE: The original factory filter is usually overtorqued and sealed to the engine by paint - it can be very difficult to remove. Make sure the strap is gripping the top of the filter and use the wrench position shown. If you still can't get the filter to loosen, use a breaker bar and cheater pipe in place of the ratchet, and pull hard - no stuck filters have been able to resist this much leverage. See D. Murdock's oil change page for additional details about the proper wrench position.
8. Slip a plastic grocery bag, zip-lock, or bread sack under the filter and pull it up around the filter body. Now unscrew and remove the filter. Make sure that the old rubber gasket is still on the filter. Set the filter aside to be drained.
9. Fill the filter with fresh oil and use your finger to coat the gasket face with oil.
WARNING!
WARNING!
WARNING!
ANYTHING poured into the center of the filter goes directly into the bearings and piston cooling nozzles when the engine is started. The killer dowel pin is now famous for causing expensive engine damage, but Cummins reports that far more engines have been heavily damaged by the foil that is used to seal oil jugs.

10. Install the new filter on the engine. Make sure it is tight, especially on 24 valve engines. After the gasket face contacts the housing, tighten the filter an additional 3/4 of a turn. If this is difficult, use the strap wrench to finish tightening the filter. Do not permanently bend, dent, or distort the filter can while tightening the filter - the body may stress crack at the bend and dump your oil.
11. Replace the air intake hose and tighten the band clamps.
12. Install the drain plug (do not forget this important step - BTDT!).

Proper torque for 2002 models is 35 ft-lb.
Proper torque for 1994-2001 models is 44 ft-lb.
Proper torque for 1989-1993 models is 60 ft-lb.

Note: Geno's Garage has a HD oil plug for around $40. This machined plug features a thick shoulder, a 13 mm hex head, and a strong snap-on magnet to trap metal filings.

13. Fill with 11 quarts of oil. This funnel, which is made from a 2-cycle oil bottle, keeps the oil from spilling on the engine.
14. Install the oil filler cap. Clean any spilled oil from the engine with a rag. Pull the dipstick and make sure oil is at or slightly above the full mark (if it is not, go back to step 12 and try again). Start the engine and check the filter gasket closely for leaks.
15. Pour the old oil into jugs and drain the filter into a jug. Please recycle the used oil.
16. Grease the front suspension and steering components and adjust the rear brakes.
17. Ready to go! Clean your tools and then throw away the oily rag - it can spontaneously combust if not disposed of properly.

Oils used by various owners:

Shell Rotella-T
Chevron Delo 400
Cummins Premium Blue
Cummins Premium Blue 2000
Mobile Delvac 1300
Amsoil

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 06:34 PM
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Its really simple to work on these trucks. If you are at all mechanically inclined, it won't be too hard. As far as filters, fleetguard is a really good way to go. The above instructions are very thorough and you shouldn't encounter any problems.

With the fuel filter though you may get air in the lines. I've had it happen one time and not happen the next and I don't know why. So now, I always just crack 2 of the injector lines and bleed the air out. Its a 19mm or 3/4inch wrench on the injector transfer tubes, like I said, crack a couple of the just loose not all the way off or even really loose. Crank, when you see fuel at the lines, tighten back down and you're good to go. You'll find there are lots of things you can do on your truck to become quite familiar with it. With the help of guys on this forum, you should be able to do most anything you feel comfortable trying.

Congrats on the purchase.
Sean

2000 2500 reg. cab 4x4 auto 577hp
09 6.7L QC LB stick, 4x4.

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-12-2007, 09:20 PM
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I would also recommend Napa for filters, they carry Wix filters there, and they are also a good filter. Thats what I use

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 01:01 AM
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so when bleeding the air, you just loosen an injector line until the air is out? What happens if air is in the injector, does it break?

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 01:05 AM
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No, air can form a bubble in the line, and the injector won't pop open because when the fuel below it increases in pressure the fuel just compresses and the injector never pops therefore never firing, and the truck won't start. Cracking a line or two makes it much easier to bleed air from the system. If you ever remove injector lines, you will need to bleed all the lines that have been removed.
Sean

2000 2500 reg. cab 4x4 auto 577hp
09 6.7L QC LB stick, 4x4.

TOTAL PERFORMANCE DIESEL 707-545-FUEL (3835)
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcumminsmeck
I would also recommend Napa for filters, they carry Wix filters there, and they are also a good filter. Thats what I use
Just a FYI. The NAPA house brand filters are the exact same filter as the Wix brand sitting next to them. It even says on the bottom of the NAPA box "made by Wix". The NAPA filters are usually a little cheaper. :Thumbup:

That being said, Fleetgaurd is the only filter that I will use on my Cummins. Fleetguard is Cummins approved and come on the motors new from the factory. I use Wix/NAPA on most all my antique tractors, just not on my Cummins. Whatever you do, just please don't use a Fram.
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 03:11 PM
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Won't the engine fill the new oil filter with oil when it starts?
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 07:24 PM
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Yes and no

Yes when you start the truck it will fill the oil filter with oil. But it could be anywhere fro 3 to 10 sec before you are actually sucking oil in to lubricate the engine. As the oil filter is where the engine immediately sucks it's oil from. Also I will only use fleetguard filters on my truck. But whatever you decide do nt use A fram.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-14-2007, 07:55 PM
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It's too simple not to fill the oil filter up before putting it on. If you put it on dry, it is just like running your truck without any oil until it pumps enough to fill the new filter and all the oil lines back up.
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