97 F350 cummins conversion - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-29-2007, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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97 F350 cummins conversion

A friend and I are lookin to do a cummins conversion to a 97 F350 and we were debating on putting either a 12v or 24v. I dont know to much about cummins but like the idea. I know it will probably come down to preference but which motor would be better, I like the simplicity of the 12v but he likes the 24v. Any input on which one to go with would help. What are some good companies to look at for performance internals and accessories. Thanks guys

97 F250 PSD RCLB 4x4
Supercrap programmer, tymar intake, built trans, 3 inch downpipe to 4 inch Kat delete pipe, 6 inch stacks, Autometer Cobalt boost-pryo-trans temp, straight axle in- SOLD

2005 F350 4 door LB 4x4 Lariat
2006 CR cummins
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-29-2007, 11:57 PM
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The 12v will make your life much easier. Also, it is more capable of producing high horsepower numbers if thats something you guys are looking for. As for internals, you shouldn't really need internal parts until you start getting up in the higher hp levels. There are lots of different options for things like injectors, and fuel pump mods depending on which way you go. I'd recommend the 12v because its a more capable more reliable engine. The main benefit to the 24v is being able to turn the box down for towing.
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 12:13 AM
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Personally I tend to lean towards the 24V engines.

All the toys are plug and play and are tuneable on the fly. You can also stack programmers and enhancement boxes for more power (HP/TQ). Also the timing on a 24V is dynamic so its giving better timing than 12V static timing...

I got to admit a 12V is much easier to make work and doesn't required a bunch. But there is pluses here too. Most of the power can be made very cheap. Adjustments to the p-pump are fairly easy for cheap and quick power...

Just my 2 cents to this subject...:Thumbup:

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 01:02 AM
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When doing a conversion the 12V is way easier to do! Especially if you do a 95/96 that dont have near the electronic controls.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 02:23 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sstockton
The 12v will make your life much easier. Also, it is more capable of producing high horsepower numbers if thats something you guys are looking for. As for internals, you shouldn't really need internal parts until you start getting up in the higher hp levels. There are lots of different options for things like injectors, and fuel pump mods depending on which way you go. I'd recommend the 12v because its a more capable more reliable engine. The main benefit to the 24v is being able to turn the box down for towing.
Sean

Quote:
Originally Posted by Twisted Shifter
When doing a conversion the 12V is way easier to do! Especially if you do a 95/96 that dont have near the electronic controls.
What they said. If you care to mix and match parts though use the Pump, timing cover, etc. off of the 12v and put it on a 24 valve engine. Then you still have the lack of electronics of the 12v, but the airflow, centered injection, lower compression (just naming a few) of a 24v. That's why the rail cars you see will use the 12v pump (P7100) on 24 valves engines.

If you want to keep it simple and not mess with the engine much, then just swap a 12v in.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. We are going to try for some higher hp numbers so I want to try and build a motor dependind on the cost of that. What can a stock motor hold for hp before grenading. And as far as mixing 12/24v parts how hard is this to do. I didnt know that you can do this and if I am going to do the swap I might as well get the best out of everything.

97 F250 PSD RCLB 4x4
Supercrap programmer, tymar intake, built trans, 3 inch downpipe to 4 inch Kat delete pipe, 6 inch stacks, Autometer Cobalt boost-pryo-trans temp, straight axle in- SOLD

2005 F350 4 door LB 4x4 Lariat
2006 CR cummins
6 speed manual with south bend dual disc, ARP sticks, phat shaft silver series turbo, Air dog 150, custom smarty tune
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 08:49 PM
 
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I'd be asking Haisley about what it all takes to get it to work properly.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 08:53 PM
 
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as for parts and stuff go through destroked.com, i would also say go for a 12v much easier conversion and simpler to work on
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 09:42 PM
 
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The 12 valve will have way more power potential, and easier swap. And from what I hear P-pumped 24 valves are a hit or miss kinda thing. Some work great and others never quite work right and nobody knows why.

If it were me I'd be debating between a 03&+ common rail or the the P-pumped 12 valve for a swap. The 98.5-02 24 valves VP44 fuel pump isn't as stout as the P7100 or the CP3 IMPO

So basically to me if you want:
Simple, cheap, easy power get a P-pumped 12 valve
Electronic options, high power potential, the best drivability get a common rail
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 12-30-2007, 10:00 PM
 
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I think a Common Rail swap for a Novice might be nothing short of a nightmare.
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