questions about 24 valve.. - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 10:18 PM Thread Starter
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questions about 24 valve..

i've almost decided to get a 24 valve instead of a common rail because it will be cheaper, and i will have more money for upgrades. So; how good are these motors? Some people tell me they're just as good as better than a common rail, and same say their a POS. Whats some commons problems with these? Also, how much HP does a regular 24 valve have? How about a HO? What all can be done to these? And this truck will be a manual, I've decided 2500 at most for a double disc clutch is cheaper than 6000 for a built auto... Give me some input, any and all is apreciated..

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-01-2010, 11:34 PM
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some common problems are fuel pressure problems, and when the fuel pressure drops it can cause the injection pump to fail...so you'll want to put a fuel pressure gauge on it to make sure you have at least 10 psi feeding the injection pump....the SO motor puts out i think 185hp in the late 90s models and 235hp in 01 and 02..the HO's were 245hp.

as far as mods..you can do the basic exhaust, intake, turbo upgrade, chip/programmer, injectors, cam and then you can go further and pull the VP44 and put in a p-pump and that way you would have the mechanical injection pump

what DD clutch were you looking at?

Greg
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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i'm lookin at a south bend. the have a lifetime warranty, and everyone who pulls around here uses em. they've never had to replace theirs yet, with the exception of my buddy who's replaced 3 in 6 months. but that's because all he does is give his 9 kinds. if you p-pump a 24 valve, can you still use chips/programmers on them? sorry, i'm a powerstroke and 6.5 guy lol...

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 03:27 AM
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Like smokin says the first thing is put a fuel gauge in it and monitor fuel psi. I keep mine at 15 psi. What are you looking to get out of it? If it's a daily driver or high horse power. You can make upwards of 600-700 hp with the vp44 pump with the right mods. Mine has a Fass oem replacement pump which mounts on the side of the block under the filter housing. They run about 30% over stock which is enough if your just going to run a programer, exhaust small stuff like that. If your looking for high horsepower then go with the 150/180 Fass pump instead. I run a Edge, 4" exhaust w/o muffler just a cat, an OFE South Bend clutch. It's my work truck with snow plow and all of that fun stuff but it has 321,000 miles on it with the original vp44 pump.
I have a shop and I've replaced 3 vp44 pumps on customers pickups in the last 6 months all due to low fuel psi.
Any common rails you look at make sure you check starting when it's cold. I've also had several of these come in with hard starting due to low fuel psi to the injectors. Which can be injectors or the jumper tubes.

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 03:45 AM
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I have my mods to my 24-valve listed, as well as my last run on the dyno. They are great motors and a little PM goes a long way.

As others have stated, a lift pump and gauges are a must.

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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southern-stroke View Post
if you p-pump a 24 valve, can you still use chips/programmers on them? sorry, i'm a powerstroke and 6.5 guy lol...
If you ppump the 24 valve, it eliminates the ability to use chips/programmers.

I'm currently working on getting everything set up to do a conversion to a NV5600 since my tranny's about smoked. My mechanic recommended the SB Street Dual Disk for my application since I don't plan on doing any sled pulling until I get out of college and have the money to fix the stuff I'll break

Greg
My Truck- '02 Dodge Ram 2500 QCLB...ISSPRO Gauges...110hp DDP Injectors...Smarty..TST Comp..Pro52 turbo..BHAF...4" Turbo back to single 8" mitre...converted to NV5600 with SB Street DD

Bro's Trucks- 97 Dodge Ram 2500 5spd 12V...DDP 90hp Injectors...Half-Cut DV's..0 Plate...starwheel turned..kdp & 5th gear fix...17.5deg timing...SB Feramic 13" clutch

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-02-2010, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southern-stroke View Post
i've almost decided to get a 24 valve instead of a common rail because it will be cheaper, and i will have more money for upgrades. So; how good are these motors?

Lets say I've got 2 member on my site that are.... 2001 Dodge Cummins with 800K miles and still going... Then 1992 Dodge Cummins with 623K miles and still going...

Some people tell me they're just as good as better than a common rail, and same say their a POS.

CR engine weak spot is the injectors when they wear out it cost much more for six injectors on CR engine than a VP44...

Whats some commons problems with these?

Fuel pumps and plumbing... Keep your fuel pressure above 10 PSI (I'm starting to suggest above 14 PSI for long life).

Also, how much HP does a regular 24 valve have?

235/460

How about a HO?

245/505

What all can be done to these?

Lots and lots... Fueling Boxes, programmer stacks, injectors, high idle mod, crankcase vent mod, etc...

And this truck will be a manual, I've decided 2500 at most for a double disc clutch is cheaper than 6000 for a built auto... Give me some input, any and all is apreciated..
Input in blue...

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins & 1996 Dodge Ram 5.9L Gasser
116K Miles On My VP44 - 4 Years of 2 Cycle Oil Diet! - Mixed at 128:1 Ratio - 25.3 MPG maxed out!
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