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Step by step wheel joint and wheel bearing

13K views 11 replies 8 participants last post by  CWAGO 
#1 ·
First, Jack up the truck and place on jack stands. Remove wheel and tire.


Remove the brake caliper (two 18mm head bolts)


Wire the caliper to the coil spring


Remove the brake disk. If it doesnt just pull off, hit it with a rubber hammer. If you dont have rubber hammer, be carefull not to hit it to hard and crack the rotor.


Remove the ABS sensor (12mm allen)


Remove the cottor pin and nut that holds the axle on (1 11/16 socket, 3/4" drive)


If the axle doesnt slide back, just give it a little tap.


Remove the 4 bolts that hold the wheel bearing on. (18mm head bolts, might want to use 3/4" drive)


In a perfect world the wheel bearing will just fall off......... since it wont just fall off screw two of the bolts back in the hub half way. Use a long socket extension and hold one end on the bolt head and the other to the frame. Have someone get in the truck and start it. Use the power steering to push the hub out. (Thanks The Diesel Garage for this tip) Notice in this pic that my wheel joints are shot.


The hub should come right out.


Now that the hub is off, just pull the axle out.


When you get the axle out, look up in the tube and you might see lots of dirt and debris. Get the shop vac out and vacuum the dirt and **** out. Be carefull not to suck the gear oil out of the pumpkin :bang:


After completion clean everything up and anti seize everything, Hub, axle splines.


Hope this helps someone!!

When you get done, go test drive the truck to your local riding spot and go riding. :happymugs





Thanks
Cody
 
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#3 ·
it was before the hack.
 
#4 ·
can you just replace the u joint, or do you have to buy something else. driver side
 
#5 ·
What are the signs/indications that this needs to be done? I'm having an issue with my steering (sloppy), alignment (tracking, bump steer), odd tread wear (heavy wear on the outsides of the front tires, mainly drivers side) , and 4 wheel drive (hopping & clunking on turns, even on slick roads)
 
#7 ·
If you pull both tires and wheels off. If one of the hubs spins more freely than the other then you could have a wheel bearing going out.

While you have the wheels off, check the U-Joints behind the hub. If you see that your U-joints look like this then they are bad and need replaced. Notice the shiny part on the U-joint. While looking at the U-joints, spin the hub and you will see if they are bad.

If you have bad tire wear and the steering is sloppy you might need a front end alignment.

 
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#6 · (Edited)
when to replace...

I noticed a fierce squeak from teh front end that got a fair bit louder around corners, also felt a vibration through the wheel on corners. Jacked up the front end...turned the wheel a crumb to the left and spun it around...as sure as poop is brown i heard the squeak every time one 'prong' on the joint got to the 'top'

Kinda vague i know...hope it helps a bit...

I was quoted 250 from the dealer to replace....so if you can do it yourself......

Johndeeregreen: This was the only thing I needed to replace.....
 
#8 ·
What happened that you needed to change it. Is this something I should look for in the future?
 
#9 ·
Great write-up!!
 
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#11 ·
Great write up. I just replaced the wheel bearing and the u jount on the front drivers side. I will be honest I eventually needed a large bearing puller to get the wheel bearing off, I was warned against the trick of leaving the bolt out and turning the steering. When you start looking for the bearing there is only one maker I found SKF and the part #is BR930502. Advanced auto had them for $286. They were $386 at the dealer. There were a couple of places on the internet that were $250. Have a great weekend everyone. JP
 
#12 ·
Hate to bump my own thread BUT............. BUMP...lol
 
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