5.9 crankshaft question - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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5.9 crankshaft question

I was wondering if anyone would happen to know off the top of their head what the 5.9L's crankshaft is made with and if its a cast or forged piece before I go into researching if its worth the time to machine what I plan on machining into one for my race engine.

Thank you!

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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 02:41 AM Thread Starter
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Found something on Engine Builder's website

Quote:
"Crankshafts
The first design crankshaft is forged steel with induction-hardened journals and eight flywheel bolts. The thrust flange is on the number 6 main journal. This crankshaft was used in the “12 valve” engine beginning in 1983 and was used from 1989 through 1997.5 and 1995.5-2002 in the Dodge Ram applications. The difference is obvious and apparent when looking at Figure 4.

The second-generation crankshaft is forged steel and induction hardened as well. It also has 8 flywheel bolts and includes two dowel pin holes for flywheel location. This crankshaft was used from 1997.5-1999.5 for Dodge and 1997.5 through 2002 for non-Dodge application. In Figure 4 you’ll notice the slightly different relief as well as other differences. This crankshaft uses a bolt-on crankshaft position trigger ring, which is manufactured in two pieces. It could actually be replaced in-chassis if it needed to be done that way."
Here is the link
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2008...tough-rebuild/

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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Found this on AERA website

Quote:
"CRANKSHAFTS
According to engine-build manager Jonathan Music at Enterprise Engine Performance, the stock Cummins cranks are great units, but for racing applications, they don’t feature enough counterweight mass to maintain rotating balance at about 5000 rpm or higher. As a result, Enterprise adds welded-on additional counterweights to their cranks. In stock form, the Cummins 5.9 and 6.7L engines produce peak horsepower at about 2000 rpm (and torque at about 1600 rpm), with the crank weights designed to handle that peak speed. Enterprise Engine performance services any make/model diesel engine, but they specialize in power-building the Cummins 5.9L. They offer a variety of specialty components that they’ve developed in-house.
Jonathan noted that some of their twin-turbo engines pull peak power in the 5000 to 6500 rpm range, so adding the necessary counterweight is mandatory.
Over-stroking is generally a no-no, simply because there’s not much room inside the blocks to accommodate additional stroke length. In other words, things are pretty tight inside from the get-go.
However, according to Music, the Cummins 6.7L can be stroked as much as 5.500”, although you’ll face quite a bit of grinding to obtain rotating clearance. The longest stroke that’s more practical is 5.350”, but you’ll still need to clearance grind."
Here is this link
http://www.aera.org/engine-professio...l-performance/

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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-10-2014, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Coming into another thought, undersized bearings for ground journals. I see Jegs with .25mm undersized for sale on con-rods and mains, however, whats the standard for re-ground crankshafts, does anyone know?

.25mm = 0.0098425"

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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-12-2014, 04:16 AM
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Jim, those are all good questions and some answers. I was wanting to build a 5.25 stroker in a 6.7 block and p-pump it droping it into a 94 short standard cab but I have just too many projects to get done, maybe in a couple of more years, Say just before I turn 70. Yes I am old.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-14-2014, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Reground undersized bearings out there for anyone interested.

besides the already stated we have

.50mm
and
.75mm

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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-19-2014, 04:55 AM
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Offset grinding and .75mm is not going to give you much of a stroke increase. I was thinking about annealing the crank then building it up and adding say .375 stroke. Then get a deck plate and sleave the block. I think it should have a chance of working.

I would assume the deck plate will need to be bolted down and torqued, while the sleaves are being installed.

And the crank will need to have the journals chromed and tempered, maybe cryo.

I have never done this but it seams like it should work. What do you think?
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-20-2014, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Well, if we were to do undersized bearings I posted them because they are obviously not out in the open. and I am sure many would like to know the standard regrind sizes unless they decide to go further with larger cube changes through stroking or destroking along with journal diameter changes. I have never done nitriding or other processes to crankshafts etc myself but there is also micro-polishing too.

I am right at a little stall on planning my crankshaft because I have not found a rod to run just yet, I have my pistons in mind but no rod chosen, I may have to get a set of kustom rods made.

So we have a stock rod journal of 2.7160" and a stock main journal of 3.2672" according to AGkits.com. My Motors manual lists each measurement .0010 smaller in diameter for a small end measurement as well.

If you have a .375 in stroke increase we move from the 4.72 up to 5.095" stroke.

4.02 x 4.02 x 5.095 x .7854 x # of cylinders = 388.006 cubic inches of displacement.

Are you keeping your current pistons since you mention a deck plate?

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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 01:57 AM
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I have a complete 6.7 sitting on the bench. I was thinking about stock rods, cleaned up and stock pistons with the bowls opened up to drop the compression down to 15 to 1.

I also considered coating the piston tops and just the cylinder area on the head for heat rejection.
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 08-23-2014, 12:21 AM
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I think our goals are somewhat different, I want a very street friendly 500 to 600 hp. And don't mind taking my time getting there.. My guess is you are wanting to race. I have no issues with that I just want a 12 second truck on the street well 13.2 will work for me now, as I get older I will need something slower, I know my reactions are getting slower and my vision is going down hill, I lost my General Avaition ticket due to going deaf in one ear, so I can see the down hill slide, but I still want to have a little fun.
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