coolant leak - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 03:29 AM Thread Starter
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coolant leak

hey guys i'm new to the 6.4 powerstroke. I bought my truck yesterday and noticed a bad coolant leak before the paperwork was signed, ford worked on it all day today, said it was a lower radiator hose. I picked it up today by the time i got home (10 minute drive) it was pouring again. Any ideas guys? its going back in the am and we will see what they say. thanks for any and all info guys.
___ Ignore my signature the truck is a 08 f250 lariat auto with 63600 miles ____

2004 F250 4 door FX4 6.0 auto transmission 4inches lift and 35x12.50x16.5 bfg's home made straight pipe and cat delete sct x2 egr delete and more:evil:

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 03:38 AM
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Probably the lower hose now. Very common in the job 1 trucks. I had the same thing on mine after a radiator replacement..

Dominic
'16 Ram 3500 Limited, DRW, 3.73's, Aisin, 4x4
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 03:36 AM Thread Starter
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Got a new radiator hose on top and bottom, leak is fixed. But now the 4X4 won't engage. The transfer case is engaging but hubs ain't

2004 F250 4 door FX4 6.0 auto transmission 4inches lift and 35x12.50x16.5 bfg's home made straight pipe and cat delete sct x2 egr delete and more:evil:

421.4HP 724.3TQ
Dunbar's dyno

Can you keep up?
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 03:40 AM
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Vacuum problems probably a line unhooked. Did you consider buying a lmm duramax??

04 Silverado 2500HD LB7/Allison, EFI live by duramaxtuner.com with DSP5, 4" MBRP turbo back straight pipe, polished 5" tip, 5% tint, riding on 285 fierce attitudes, many more mods....
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-04-2012, 11:06 PM
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If you're new to the 6.4 here are my standard recommendations to help avoid problems:

If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously (any brand), be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.


Key 6.4 maintenance items:


* Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.


* Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.


* Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 5,000 miles at the same time you do the oil change for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the entire coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.


* Cooling system flush with VC-9 and refill with Ford Gold coolant every 60,000 miles, sooner if you have neglected testing and the nitrite is under 300ppm.


* Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.


* Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Diesel-Kleen.


* The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.


* The latest PCM flash (11B23) does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place, it does however add much improved engine monitoring for developing issues. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.


* Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown. If you are interrupting the regens you will see it in your Blackstone report, otherwise you should see very little fuel dilution, <1%.


You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty. The coolant nitrite testing that many people overlook *is* in the owner's manual diesel supplement, so if you neglect it Ford can deny warranty coverage for resulting damage.


Other Super Duty maintenance items:


* Change transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles.


* Change rear differential fluid every 50,000 miles on DANA axles (F350 DRW and up).


* Change transmission fluid and filter every 60,000 miles on Torqshift transmissions (100k on manual transmissions). If you have the early Torqshift with the external filter the interval is much shorter.



Resources:


Coolant test strips - Buy the 4pk, not the bottle of 50, the strips have expiration dates and you'll only need <10 per year. Most dealer parts counters should have the test strips, NAPA has them, or order direct from Acustrip.

http://acustrip.com/CTS-3_Retail_Order_Form.pdf


Used oil testing - Blackstone Labs, get the pre-paid 6pk of test kits to save a few bucks. You don't need the TBN option:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/order-now.php


Ford ESP extended warrantys - You can buy them online from real dealers, or use the online price from a real dealer to negotiate a better price from your local dealer. You absolutely want the ESP, while the 6.4 is not problematic as some claim as long as you maintain it properly, nearly any repair is big $ and one good one will cover the ESP cost:

http://www.lombardfordwarrantys.com/


DPF, oil, coolant temp monitoring - ScangaugeII, you will need to program the X-gauge commands for the 6.4:

http://www.scangauge.com/
http://www.scangauge.com/support/x-g...cific-xgauges/
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 10-05-2012, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the info. I am new to the 6.4, i had a 6.0 but that was years ago. I did buy the premium protection plan when i bought the truck, So i lucked up on that. Once again thanks for all the info.

2004 F250 4 door FX4 6.0 auto transmission 4inches lift and 35x12.50x16.5 bfg's home made straight pipe and cat delete sct x2 egr delete and more:evil:

421.4HP 724.3TQ
Dunbar's dyno

Can you keep up?
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