How-to block off your TDI PD EGR - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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How-to block off your TDI PD EGR

Remove the 4 metric Hex bolts that holds the upper EGR pipe in place.

Remove the oval metal gasket on the lower end of the upper EGR pipe.

Trace the oval metal gasket with a marker or scribe on a piece of sheetmetal (you can get rectangular sheets in the hardware dept. at Home Rip-off for ~$5). Take your marker and completly fill in the two bolt holes.

Using a fine metal blade on a jig saw cut along the mark you made. Use a bench grinder, sander or pistol grinder to clean up your edges and debur the top and bottom surfaces.

Find the center of your two bolt holes and use a small bit like a 1/8th and make a pilot hole. Then use a bit in between 1/8th and 5/16 and drill out the two holes. Switch to a 5/16 bit and drill out those holes.

Put your new plug where the old metal gasket was found on the lower end of the pipe.

Replace the upper intake pipe and the 4 bolts holding it.

Note: If you disconnect the EGR harness (only needed if you choose to remove it to clean it) you will get an idiot light/emissions workshop in the MFA in the dash. Either clear it with a VagCom or it will go away on its own shortly.
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post #2 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:32 PM
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Im going to have to look at mine... nothing in there looks familiar.. but you would think the 1.9L would be close to the 2.0L?
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post #3 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISurvivedNMU
Im going to have to look at mine... nothing in there looks familiar.. but you would think the 1.9L would be close to the 2.0L?
My motor runs front to back so maybe that's why it's different?
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post #4 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:38 PM
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I dont know, but i am going to tear into mine next week...
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post #5 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:42 PM
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Shouldn't the gasket be placed in front of the plate ?
Seems a leak could occur otherwise.
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post #6 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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You know you have to take the engine cover off first?:
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post #7 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-19-2006, 11:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNBROKEN
Shouldn't the gasket be placed in front of the plate ?
Seems a leak could occur otherwise.
I feel that it sealed very tight but I'll keep an eye on it and see. I'm sure there would be a way to scan for this via the VagCom as well. Notice too that the upper-end doesn't even have a gasket from the factory.

I still have it so it could be put back on in 2 minutes.
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post #8 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooMuchBoost
Remove the 4 metric Hex bolts that holds the upper EGR pipe in place.

Remove the oval metal gasket on the lower end of the upper EGR pipe.

Trace the oval metal gasket with a marker or scribe on a piece of sheetmetal (you can get rectangular sheets in the hardware dept. at Home Rip-off for ~$5). Take your marker and completly fill in the two bolt holes.

Using a fine metal blade on a jig saw cut along the mark you made. Use a bench grinder, sander or pistol grinder to clean up your edges and debur the top and bottom surfaces.

Find the center of your two bolt holes and use a small bit like a 1/8th and make a pilot hole. Then use a bit in between 1/8th and 5/16 and drill out the two holes. Switch to a 5/16 bit and drill out those holes.

Put your new plug where the old metal gasket was found on the lower end of the pipe.

Replace the upper intake pipe and the 4 bolts holding it.

Note: If you disconnect the EGR harness (only needed if you choose to remove it to clean it) you will get an idiot light/emissions workshop in the MFA in the dash. Either clear it with a VagCom or it will go away on its own shortly.

At the risk of seeming completely ignorant. What is the reason for blocking off the EGR? Is there a performance gain? Last year I had a problem with my EGR valve being stuck open. The car wouldn't start. It was warrantied but my warranty has since expired. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance.

Tony

2002 DODGE 4WD QUAD CAB 2500, SUNCOAST 47RE W/TRIPLE DISK AND BILLET INPUT SHAFT, F.A.S.S, 2 INCH LEVELING SPACERS, FP,BOOST,PYRO,TRANS GAUGES, 5 INCH STRAIGHT PIPEDon: 10K+miles on B100 18.3mpg (BEST)

2003 TDI GOLF (WIFE'S) 50+ MPG

1985 1.6L n/a diesel GOLF, FULL 3 INCH EXHAUST 45 MPG ON FIRST TANK

66' CHEVELLE SS BB468", TH400, 9" W/LOCKER, MOSER AXLES
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post #9 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-20-2006, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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Even 100% stock the EGR's are gumming up with soot and need to be cleaned every 10,000 miles. Like any EGR diesel, if you defeat the EGR your oil stays cleaner longer (among other things) because you aren't pumping filthy hot air back into the motor. You can go much longer on oil changes and I don't see why the motors won't last longer this way.

In my car the ECM is defueling the motor as the EGR clogs up which of course loses HP and TQ. A clogged EGR was dyno proven to take 50 ft/lbs of torque and 11 hp! We have reason to believe even a clean and operating EGR is holding back power in my situation so we now begin a testing period to see.

In my 6.0 PSD my EGT's dropped ~75 degrees and my fuel economy went up a fraction in addition to cleaner oil.
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post #10 of 29 (permalink) Old 03-21-2006, 05:21 PM
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How is a clogged EGR different from a purposefully plugged one? Do you have to disconnect the electrical harness from it to avoid defueling?

-Evan

2000 Ford F250, Merillion, 6sp, AIC, DPTuner, BB turbo, Adreneline pump, modified IDM.

1998 Mercedes E300, Custom injector nozzles, soon to have Eaton M90 supercharger, 7.5mm pump elements, Holset HX40 turbo and a full custom intake and exhaust system = 400HP from 3.0l
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