Perkins: - Diesel Truck Forum - TheDieselGarage.com
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
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Perkins:

I have a 4-248 Perkins diesel in my lift truck that lost compression on #3 yesterday and now has a lot of blowby from the draft tube. It's never been an oil burner and this symptom came on with no warning starting as a slight stumble before becoming a dead miss. I'm suspecting a hole burnt in a piston but have not verified. I've never been into a Perkins engine before and wondering if there is anything special to be concerned with? This engine is the "LG" series which is the later variant and rebuild kits are readily available. I see in the service manual it is a sleeved engine and I'll most likely go with OEM parts for this rebuild. A master kit even has the valves, springs, guides, retainers, and locks so all you need is good cores to work with. Until yesterday morning, the lift has always ran very well.

Oh well, 8K hours+ and it's never given any problems in the past so guess it's due for freshening up.

Now if I can figure out how to get an 8K counterweight off the back.....

Thanks,

Bs
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 02:54 PM
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Might post in the utility and farm tractor area. Not sure if that helps with people posting/ responding but when I think euro diesel a guy in skinny jeans drinking an espresso comes to mind.
Grandpa has a Massey ferguson backhoe with a Perkins in it wish I knew more but the first guy he had work on it messed up the sleeves and it didn't run right. He took it to a guy with much more background in diesels and found the sleeves were cracked when installed. If I remember right they were super thin. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago so I don't know what all was wrong with it.

As far as the counter weight very carefully comes to mind.

Wes

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


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Last edited by Weld engineer; 10-06-2013 at 02:57 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-06-2013, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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Might post in the utility and farm tractor area. Not sure if that helps with people posting/ responding but when I think euro diesel a guy in skinny jeans drinking an espresso comes to mind.
Grandpa has a Massey ferguson backhoe with a Perkins in it wish I knew more but the first guy he had work on it messed up the sleeves and it didn't run right. He took it to a guy with much more background in diesels and found the sleeves were cracked when installed. If I remember right they were super thin. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago so I don't know what all was wrong with it.

As far as the counter weight very carefully comes to mind.

Wes
I didn't really think of any other area as I check for new posts and everything comes up.

This morning I pulled the injectors and ran compression checks while cranking the engine. 380, 390, 095, and 370 from 1-4. Guess that kinda narrows it down a bit. There is a remote possibility the exhaust valve for that #3 cylinder is suspect but it would not explain the raw diesel fuel in the crankcase oil. Something went wrong and worst part of the whole deal is I was operating the lift so nobody to blame except myself; (hate when that happens). I thought about pulling the head for a looksee but, it does have quite a bit of hours and I do plan to keep it so will do the job right. May even get the proverbial "wild hair" and give it a nice paint job while the cab and sheet metal is removed.

I can borrow another lift to use and remove the counterweight without problem but that entails a making up a jig to lift it with. There are two holes I assume in the balance point of the weight in which to lift from and if true, not much of a problem.

Wonder where our two friends, (Bella, and Monty) with the over oxygenated brain cells are hiding out today? They've not posted with a ridiculous or stupid response lately.

Thanks,

BS
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 01:05 AM
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Its been a number of years but I've rebuilt a perkins 4.318 out of a tractor. Made a homemade puller to pull the sleeves. From what I remember there was nothing special to rebuilding, just the normal stuff.

Remember not to talk bad about farmers with your mouth full!
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-07-2013, 02:09 AM Thread Starter
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I've looked into master kits for the engine from on line suppliers and will now check with the machine shop I typically go to. The owner will usually match or best the on line suppliers or let me pay a reasonable markup to keep the business in house.

Having the injectors out of the engine already; I'll get the pump off and send them into the fuel shop for calibration also. I wasn't having any fuel problems but it wont hurt to have these items checked over and evaluated.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-09-2013, 03:38 AM Thread Starter
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Might have run into a deal today. An implement dealer I do a lot of work for has an older Massey Ferguson combine with the same 4-248 Perkins diesel engine in their shop. The combine was in a barn fire and is a total loss, but the engine is still good and runs well. I've not seen it but understand the heat was concentrated to the front and rt. side of the unit and burnt the tires off on that side. The engine is up high behind a housing and was unaffected.

May have to swap out some work for a trade, but has a chance to benefit all parties as I guess there was no insurance involved.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 02:38 AM Thread Starter
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Went by the equipment dealer this afternoon to have a look at the engine. Engine starts easy and runs great. They'll have it out and on an engine stand tomorrow for me. Another business where we trade services, (seemingly constant) pulled the cab, and counterweight from my lift and will extract the engine tomorrow. I can then swap the parts needed to make it all work. I ordered a gasket set from www.agkits.com as I've done a lot of business with them through the years and there are a couple of small oil leaks. They resale Victor-Reinz products.

The way this is going I may not even get my hands dirty.....

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-10-2013, 03:11 AM
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Sometimes things work out as if that was the plan all along. Hoping the machine shop is done with my little project so assembly can begin this weekend. Need to get my hands dirty this weekend.

Early 2004 F-250 4x4 CC 6.0


2nd owner, ARP studs 1 at a time, Some parts missing in the exhaust path, BD intercooler hoses, Blue spring, MC filters, Sinister coolant filter, Exhaust manifold gaskets, WARN lockouts, Gold coolant, zoodad mod, autometer boost gauge, high idle mod, Scangauge 2, SCT X3 tuned from KEM, autometer fuel pressure gauge, Archoil 6200 in the fuel, FICM by Ed w/ATLAS40, autometer pyro gauge,'08 Alum Rear Diff cover, 5w-40 Rotella T6 w/ Archoil 9100 in it, zert in the slip joint, harpooned fuel tank, 6.4 banjos


Not a diesel mechanic in real life but I play one on the Internet
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-11-2013, 01:10 PM Thread Starter
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Stopped by on the way to work this morning and the engine is out of my lift mounted to a cradle for transport. The valve cover is removed and it's plain to see the engine dropped an exhaust valve on #3 cylinder. I suspect the head could be bad along with a piston and possibly rod assembly. Yesterday afternoon I pulled the injectors but all of them look alright. I'll get the pump off yet today and send these items into the shop for attention so they'll be ready should I need them.

I have a lot going on now so probably will place this in the "awaiting work" pile and get to it later. I received the gaskets ordered, but am short the rear main seal. I'd like to change this seal being easy to get to before installing engine into the lift.

The question I seek an answer for is simply; why, or why not?
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